Redwood National Park ⓘ

Cultural landscapes are more than just physical spaces; they are living narratives that reveal the stories of the past and the ongoing relationship between people and the land. Through careful observation, these landscapes tell us how humans have shaped and been shaped by their surroundings over time.

These landscapes evolve, influenced by the ways people have used and managed the land, the political and legal frameworks that governed it, technological advances, and the economic conditions of various periods. While they continue to change, they offer an invaluable window into history, showcasing the layers of human experience embedded within the natural environment.

By exploring these landscapes, we uncover a visual and sensory journey—one that invites us to connect with those who came before us. They reveal the choices people made, the challenges they faced, and the legacies they left behind. Through this connection, cultural landscapes become more than historical sites; they become immersive experiences that help us understand our own place within the continuum of time and nature.

Redwood National and State Parks are home to numerous historic sites that offer a glimpse into the area’s rich cultural, economic, and ecological history. These landmarks connect visitors to the stories of those who shaped the land over thousands of years and reveal the evolving relationships between people and the environment.

Historic landscapes are places that offer a glimpse into the past through the physical features and structures that remain today. These landscapes are shaped by human activity and represent a combination of natural and built environments that have evolved over time. They include everything from roads and trails, agricultural lands, and gardens to military sites, industrial areas, and historic buildings.

The significance of historic landscapes lies in their ability to tell stories about how people interacted with, utilized, and modified the land. They reveal patterns of settlement, cultural practices, technological advancements, and economic developments over different periods. By studying these landscapes, we gain insight into the lives of those who came before us and the ways they adapted to and influenced their surroundings.

In parks like Redwood National and State Parks, historic landscapes encompass a variety of elements—such as segments of the Old Redwood Highway, early ranching features, and World War II-era radar stations. These landscapes help us understand the region’s cultural evolution and the continued interplay between people and nature over centuries.

Redwood National and State Parks feature a diverse array of historic landscapes that highlight the rich cultural and historical heritage of the region. These landscapes encompass ranching sites, early infrastructure, military installations, and transportation routes that have shaped the development of the area over time.

The collections at Redwood National and State Parks (RNSP) encompass both cultural and natural history materials that reflect the rich heritage and ecological diversity of the parks. These collections include:

These collections are essential for park staff, supporting research, exhibit preparation, and the documentation of administrative management practices.

For access to additional collections, the California Department of Parks and Recreation (CDPR) maintains its collection in Sacramento, which is open to the public. For more information, visit their website: CDPR Collections (update link)

Experience the rich cultural traditions of the Tolowa and Yurok Tribes through indigenous dance demonstrations held at Redwood National and State Parks and in the surrounding region. One highlight is the annual Tolowa Renewal Dance Demonstration , which takes place at the Jedediah Smith Campground along Highway 199, just west of Hiouchi. This event typically occurs in mid-July and offers visitors an opportunity to witness and connect with the cultural heritage and living traditions of the region’s Native American communities.

In the 1930s, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park was home to Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) Company 1903 , which consisted of 186 to 193 young men who lived in a temporary camp at Boyes Prairie (now known as Elk Prairie). The CCC's work at the park exemplified the era’s commitment to conservation and sustainable development.

The most notable accomplishment of CCC Company 1903 was the construction of the "concession and recreation building" , which today serves as the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Visitor Center. Built using natural materials salvaged from an earlier cleanup of the prairie, the building’s construction, with the exception of window lights, plumbing, and the chimney flue, showcases the rustic "back to nature" design ethos that characterized National Park Service architecture during the 1920s and 1930s.

Designed to blend seamlessly with its environment, the building reflects the CCC’s efforts to restore and preserve the natural prairie landscape, creating a visitor center that harmonizes with the surrounding redwood forest and open prairie.

Redwood National and State Parks span 130,000 acres of diverse landscapes, including ancient forests, rivers, prairies, and 40 miles of rugged coastline. Within this area, 40,000 acres are old-growth redwood forests. The park stretches from Crescent City, CA, to just south of Orick, CA.

Humans have lived and thrived in this abundant landscape for thousands of years, weaving a rich history that extends beyond the park’s boundaries. The stories of these people, past and present, are deeply intertwined with the park’s identity.

The Redwoods Record: Then & Now aims to bring these stories to life by pairing archival photographs with contemporary images, creating a visual journey through time. This collection reveals the hidden history behind familiar places, highlighting the diverse individuals and communities that have shaped and continue to shape these lands. We invite you to explore the galleries and uncover glimpses of the past and present, both within and beyond the park’s borders.

Two million acres of old-growth redwood forests graced a 20 to 30 mile deep swath of land from Big Sur to southwestern Oregon. They were the keystone species in a rich and diverse ecosystem. Indigenous people have lived in harmony with redwoods for more than 10,000 years. Then in the mid-1800s European immigrants came in vast numbers seeking fortune from gold in the hills and rivers. Soon, they discovered the extraordinary utility of lumber from these massive redwood trees with their fire and insect resistant qualities. Early lumbering methods were labor intensive so cutting of the trees was a slow process. However, with the introduction of steam-power, processing of trees become much faster and cost-effective. After World War 2, vast hillsides of redwood forest quickly disappeared to the mills in Orick, Eureka, and Scotia. By the mid-1960s, only a small fraction of old-growth trees remained.

The region surrounding Redwood National and State Parks includes broad bays, coastal wetlands, navigable rivers, high prairies, and a rugged coastline. As the lumber business grew and increasing numbers of people moved into the area, the demand for services and goods expanded. Cattle ranching and dairy provided the fuel for workers settling in the towns of Eureka, Arcata, and Crescent City. People traveling by stage needed places to stay and California’s political establishment began to understand the importance of the redwood economy to the state’s position on the world stage.

A dark chapter of California’s history was written in redwood country as European immigrants in the last half of the 19th century violently displaced vibrant Native American cultures with a history that stretched back over 10,000 years. Genocidal tactics backed with legal restrictions nearly exterminated multiple tribes in the area. As Chinese workers also arrived to find opportunities in the growing towns, mills, and farms, this xenophobic rage was turned on them, albeit with less deadly results. Justified by the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1892, Chinese workers were expelled from the region in successive waves and to this day, the region remains only lightly populated by people of Asian/Pacific Islander descent.

Salmon and whales once powered a lucrative and dynamic fishing industry on the North Coast. However, the salmon runs petered out as timber industry practices and dams upstream damaged fragile riparian ecosystems in the spawning waters of the Klamath, Eel, and Smith Rivers. The whaling business came to a halt due to over-fishing, dried-up demand for whale oil, and society’s change of ethical mind about hunting and killing whales.

As the demand for redwood lumber grew, particularly in the aftermath of the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake and Fire, so did the need for overland transportation routes. Railroad companies carved their narrow paths through forests and across rivers. The advent of the automobile gave rise to the need for roads connecting the redwood coast with the markets and transportation hubs of the San Francisco area. Thus, the Redwood Highway, or U.S. 101 was born.

Early 20th century logging of redwood forests forced citizen groups, often led by women, to act to protect these leviathans of the land. Local chapters of the California Federation of Women’s Clubs made the first protective purchases of old-growth redwood groves. The Save-the-Redwoods League was formed in the 1920s, led by Newton B. Drury. Drury then guided the California State Parks to set aside major tracts of virgin redwood forest. The federal government established Redwood National Park in 1968 to protect pockets of remaining redwoods. The national park was expanded in 1978 to protect larger watersheds and the National Park Service was mandated to restore tens of thousand of acres of recently logged lands.

Water - a lot of it. 40 to 100 inches of rain fall each year on the north coast. Rivers swell and sometimes flood with devastating impact. Landslides destroy roads and rail lines. The ocean’s unrelenting force carves a rugged coastline, and occasional tsunamis explode onto the land damaging towns, village sites, and harbors.

Approximately thirty percent of National Park Service units have historic fruit trees or orchards, and Redwood National and State Parks are no exception. The park is home to at least nine orchards, along with many individual fruit trees scattered throughout its landscape. The largest two orchards in the park, Lyons Ranches Home Place Orchard in the Bald Hills and the Boyes Prairie Orchard in the Elk Meadow area of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, contain a variety of interesting fruit species.

Established around 1884 by Andrew Harris, the Boyes Prairie Orchard was one of the first orchards in the Elk Meadow area. Harris, the first Anglo to farm the meadow, cultivated Baldwin apples on his 320-acre ranch. When he sold the property to William Boyes in 1905, the ranch included four acres of fruit trees—likely about 150 to 200 trees. Boyes then expanded the site to include a dairy and a hotel called The Oaks , which became a popular resort for hunters and fishermen. Located on the main county road and later the Redwood Highway, the inn offered hospitality and home-cooked meals prepared by Mrs. Boyes and her daughter, Ethel. Guests enjoyed locally sourced produce like honey, butter, eggs, ham, and bacon—likely complemented by fresh fruit from the orchard.

Today, only 15 trees remain at the Boyes Prairie Orchard, including walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees. The apple varieties still present—Baldwin, Rhode Island Greening, Gravenstein, and White Winter Pearmain—suggest the orchard may have been developed as a commercial operation. These apple types were all popular, reliable producers. Notably, the White Winter Pearmain, recorded as far back as 1200 A.D., was one of the first apple varieties brought to the New World by the Plymouth Colony in Massachusetts.

Located in the Bald Hills, the Lyons Ranches Home Place Orchard contains over 40 trees, including English walnut, apple, pear, cherry, and plum varieties, along with remnants of grapevines. According to a 1904 article in the Humboldt Standard , the orchard once also featured peaches and “lots of other fruit.”

Jonathan and Amelia Lyons established the ranch in 1868 and became renowned for their prize-winning sheep, earning a gold medal for their wool at the 1901 World’s Fair. The ranch remained a family enterprise for many years, with their four sons—Sherman, Antonio, Anderson, and William—and grandson Gene. Like many farmers of the time, the Lyons family planted orchards both for their own use and as a cash crop.

The Lyons Ranches Home Place Orchard includes some unique apple varieties, such as the giant Gloria Mundi, which can grow up to 18 inches in diameter, and the Alexander apple. These, along with the Red Astrachan, are excellent for cooking but do not store or ship well. The family also grew Baldwin apples, a popular commercial variety known for its longevity and widespread popularity in the early 20th century. In a 1902 article from the Arcata Union , it was noted that “Joe Pitt returned from Jonathan Lyons with a load of apples this week,” likely referring to the Baldwin apples from the orchard.

Preserving historic fruit and nut trees in national park sites serves multiple purposes. Fruit trees, especially long-lived apple varieties, are often the only remaining evidence of European American settlers establishing their claims on the land. These orchards hold valuable genetic information that tells the story of pioneering orchardists who developed unique varieties, and they provide a genetic stock that can be used to cultivate new varieties for future generations.

In August 2019, the National Park Service conducted a training program at the Boyes Prairie Orchard, focusing on the preservation of historic orchards. Participants included students from national parks across the country, California State Parks, the US Forest Service, and orchard enthusiasts. They learned about pruning tools and techniques and practiced their skills by removing dead and damaged branches, as well as invasive vines that had overtaken one of the apple trees. The knowledge and skills gained through this training will help ensure that the Boyes Prairie Orchard, and other historic orchards throughout the country, continue to thrive for years to come.

Explore our short video episodes where various individuals share their passion and experiences in protecting and managing historic orchards. Filmed during a three-day training session in August 2019 at Boyes Prairie Orchard, these videos provide insight into the skills and dedication involved in preserving these important cultural landscapes.

" Redwood National Park: History Basic Data ". Access a full version of Edwin C. Bearss' 1969 (reprinted in 1982) history of Redwood National Park, available from the NPS's History E-Library. From the title page, click "Table of Contents" to get started. Please note: This book contains occasional historical quotes and language that is offensive. The NPS and CDPR recognizes the language is not appropriate today and does not condone the use of that language .

Indigenous People Assorted groups of indigenous people of the North Coast region have made the redwood forests and associated ecosystems their home since time immemorial. These Native Americans spoke many different languages and held numerous and distinct identities. Today, the descendants of these people continue to live on and off reservations and rancheria across the redwood region.

Prior to Euro-American contact, Native Americans had adapted well to this bountiful environment. Their profound religious beliefs, extensive knowledge of the natural world, languages, customs, and perseverance continue to be a source of admiration for other cultures.

Native Americans in the region belonged to many tribes, although no one tribe dominated. Indeed, the concept of "tribe" does not describe very well the traditional political complexity of the area. There were scores of villages that dotted the coast and lined the major rivers; each of these villages was more or less politically independent, yet linked to one another by intricate networks of economic, social, and religious ties.

Food sources important to the native peoples included deer, elk, fish from the ocean, rivers, and streams, nuts, berries, and seeds. Efficient and reliable hunting, fishing, and gathering methods were always paired with a deep spiritual awareness of nature's balance.

Traditional homes of the region's American Indians usually were constructed of planks split from fallen redwoods. These houses were built over pits dug beneath the building, with the space between the pit and the walls forming a natural bench. A house was understood to be a living being. The redwood that formed its planks was itself the body of one of the Spirit Beings. Spirit Beings were believed to be a divine race who existed before humans in the redwood region and who taught people the proper way to live here. Once gold was discovered along northwestern California’s Trinity River in 1850, outsiders moved into the area in overwhelming numbers. The initial contact with native peoples was gruesome.

Anglo settlers and immigrants pushed the indigenous people off their land, hunted them down, scorned, raped, and enslaved them. Resistance – and many of the Native Americans did resist – was often met with massacres. Militia units composed of unemployed miners and homesteaders set forth to rid the countryside of "hostile Indians", attacking villages and, in many documented cases, slaughtering men, women, and even infants. Upon their return, these killers were treated as heroes, and paid by the state government for their work.

Treaties that normally allotted Native Americans' reservations were never ratified in this part of California. Although treaties were signed, the California delegation lobbied against them on the grounds that they left too much land in Indian hands. Reservations were thus never established by treaty, but rather by administrative decree.

To this day, the displacement of many tribes, the lack of treaty guarantees, and the absence of federal recognition of their sovereignty continue to cloud the legal rights of many American Indians.

Indigenous People Today Over the passage of time, some aspects of northwestern indigenous California cultures began to merge. Many customs, beliefs, and ceremonies grew similar, but the languages have remained distinct. Four of them – Tolowa, Yurok, Hupa, and Karuk – are still living languages, spoken yet by a handful of cherished elders. Encouragingly, in a revival that is now sweeping the area, these languages are once again being learned by members of the younger generation.

Despite dreadful events of the past 150 years, the indigenous community of northwestern California has persisted. It has, in fact, done more than persist. Whether in politics, art, religion, or any other area of life, the community exhibits great variety and vigor.

There is currently no one in the area who is living the way Native Americans did prior to 1850, any more than there is a member of an Anglo culture who is living the life of a mid-nineteenth century miner, farmer, or merchant. While some Native Americans in the country do live on reservations, near or on the land of their ancestors, others live in local towns and cities. Culture is not a "museum" set in time and statically preserved. Living cultures grow, change, and adapt, and this has certainly been the case with Native American culture. The people of northwestern California form a vital, changing community, whether Yurok, Hupa, Tolowa, or Karuk.

Yurok and Tolowa ancestral territories include land and resources now contained within Redwood National and State Parks. Tribal Councils and Park management work together on myriad of government to government programs like habitat restoration, the returning of California condors, protection of archeological sites, the use of prescribed fire, and the beneficial sharing of staff and agency resources.

Two million acres of old-growth redwood forests graced a 20 to 30 mile deep swath of land from Big Sur to southwestern Oregon. They were the keystone species in a rich and diverse ecosystem. Indigenous people have lived in harmony with redwoods for more than 10,000 years. Then the white people came, seeking fortune from gold in the hills and rivers. Soon, they discovered the extraordinary utility of lumber from these massive redwood trees with their fire and insect resistant qualities. Early lumbering methods were labor intensive so cutting of the trees was a slow process. However, with the introduction of steam-power, processing of trees become much faster and cost-effective. Entire groves of redwood forest disappeared to the mills in Eureka and Scotia and before long, only a small fraction of old-growth trees remained.

In 1882, the Elk River Mill and Lumber Company purchased 9,000 acres of redwoods on the South Fork of the Elk river, not far from Eureka. The company built the town in 1884 to house 400 lumberjacks and their families from Sweden, Norway, Ireland, and Nova Scotia. The town had a cookhouse, dance hall, general store, post office, and school. The lumber operations shut down in 1937 in the midst of the Depression and the last buildings were demolished in 1979. In 1999, 7,472 acres of an unprotected, intact, old-growth redwood forest ecosystem was purchased by the federal government and the State of California after 13 years of political action to stop ongoing logging in the area. The land became the Headwaters Forest Reserve and is managed jointly by the Bureau of Land Management and the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Town of Scotia is one of America’s longest surviving company towns. The first Pacific Lumber Company employee bunkhouse was built in 1884 in Scotia, near the site of the company’s first logging operations. The community grew rapidly when the company built a mill in 1887 with 150 men and 100 houses. The San Francisco earthquake and fire of 1906 accelerated the demand for redwood lumber to rebuild the city. Pacific Lumber Company and its company town of Scotia grew along with the increased demand. By the 1920s, the town had a theater, baseball teams, a new bank building, new school, hospital and church. By 1929, the population was 1,000, the second largest town in Humboldt County.This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

John Vance, born in Nova Scotia in 1821, arrived in Humboldt County in the early 1850s. After a short stint working in a lumber mill, he started buying properties including mills and properties on the Eureka waterfront. In 1874, Vance built the Big Bonanza Mill on the Mad River at Essex, just south of this photo location. To move his milled lumber to Eureka, he built the Humboldt and Mad River Railroad from Essex to the Mad River Slough on Humboldt Bay. From there, his stern-wheel riverboat, the Antelope, carried the lumber to Vance’s wharf in Eureka. In 1900, the Vance Lumber Company was purchased by Andrew Benino Hammond. Hammond later purchased 36,000 acres of timberland on the Redwood and Prairie Creeks in what is now Redwood National Park. In 1912, he renamed his corporation the Hammond Lumber Company. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Prior to the completion of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad in 1914, linking Eureka to San Francisco, local railroads were used to transport logs from the forests to local mills and then out long wharfs. Companies like Excelsior Redwood Company used regular or narrow gauge rail lines to access remote forests and extend the lines as they depleted the forests. They were often built quickly and not well-engineered, so they often failed or the wooden bridges were sometimes burned by the locomotives themselves. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

In 1963, the National Geographic Society financed a NPS study of California Coast Redwoods. It’s main finding was that without protection, all old growth redwoods would be gone by the year 2000. President Lyndon Johnson called for the creation of Redwood National Park in 1966. Despite his plea, “spite cutting” continued by Rellium Redwood Company until Johnson made a special appeal. U.S. Senator Thomas Kuchel (R-CA) along with Senators Henry Jackson and Alan Bible, introduced Senate Bill 2515 to establish a Redwood National Park. The bill was eventually signed into law by President Lyndon Johnson on October 2, 1968. The Thomas Kuchel Visitor Center near the mouth of Redwood Creek, south of Orick, is named in honor of the senator. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The region surrounding the Redwood National and State Parks includes broad bays, vast coastal meadows, navigable rivers, and a rugged coastline. As the lumber business grew and increasing numbers of people moved into the area, the demand for services and goods expanded as well. Cattle ranching and dairy provided the fuel for workers settling in the towns of Eureka, Arcata, and Crescent City. People traveling by stage needed places to stay and California’s political establishment began to understand the importance of the redwood economy to the state’s position on the world stage.

The California Gold Rush brought European settlers to Humboldt Bay in the early 1850s, displacing the native Wiyot people in sometimes very violent ways. The Congregational Church was located on G Street between 3rd and 4th streets, just a few blocks from the bay. Behind it was the forest that has been replaced by a mile of urban development.This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Cattle raised in the hills and valleys to the east of Eureka were driven through town to the wharfs for shipment to San Francisco and other markets. This photograph was taken at 2d and C Streets. In the late 1890s and early 1900s, Norwegians, Fins, Portuguese, and Italians made their way to the cool, fertile lands of Humboldt County to work on farms, ranches, and various industries.This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

H.H. Anderson’s ranch, three miles southeast of Crescent City, was well-equipped for its time. An 1894 book reported that “everything about his farm indicates thrift and comfort.” In the late 1800’s, as Crescent City and its environs grew, so did demand for wagon access to Klamath, Trinidad, and Eureka to the south. The existing Klamath Trail was made slippery by regular rains “so that it is hardly safe to ride a horse over it faster than a walk”. The Del Norte County Board of Supervisors authorized the financing of a new road which would run along the beach to just south of Anderson’s ranch, then cross Cushing Creek and climb up to the top of Ragged Ass Hill. It was finished in the late summer of 1894, with stages operating between Crescent City and Eureka. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

In 1863, Alexander Brizard, a native of Bordeau, France, partnered with a fellow store clerk to establish the mercantile, Brizard and Rossum. Twelve years later, Brizard bought Rossum out and it became Brizard’s Store. The store sold everything from groceries to furniture to clothing and liquor. He opened satellite stores all over the region including Hoopa, Martin’s Ferry, Orleans, Requa, and Scotia. He used mule trains to supply his branches. After a fire in 1875, Brizard bought Jacoby’s storehouse on the southeast corner of Arcata Plaza. His three sons took over the family business after Alexander’s death in 1904 and it wasn’t until 1974 when the Brizard store actually closed. The old brick building was returned to its original name, the Jacoby Storehouse. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Before European settlers arrived, the area now known as Arcata was the location of a Wiyot village called “Kori”. The name Arcata is derived from oket’oh, a Yurok term meaning “where there is a lagoon”. The town of Union, later renamed as Arcata, was established in 1850, right after California was admitted to the Union. It served as a port and source of provisions for the gold mines in the mountains to the east (it was closer to the mines than Eureka). The plaza was laid out in the Spring of 1850 .When redwood timber replaced gold as the economic engine for the region, Eureka, which had a better harbor, overtook Union as an economic center. However, when the marshlands to the north of town, known as the “Arcata Bottoms”, were diked, the commercial dairy industry became a major employer until the end of World War II. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Ivanhoe was a popular hotel in the late 1800s when Ferndale was the largest town in Humboldt County and an important transportation hub. Stagecoach lines headed south to the Mattole region and north to Eureka. Nearby Port Kenyon on the Salt River accepted ocean-going ships, enabling expansion of dairy and farm exports to points north and south. A hundred years of siltation from agricultural activities has filled in the Salt River and it is no longer navigable to ocean-going vessels. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Governor James Gillett passed through Ferndale on his way to Petrolia to celebrate its 100% Republican vote that helped him rise to power. A strong proponent of a state highway system, his caravan of automobiles traversed the steep and windy Wildcat road to Petrolia, built by Chinese workers in the 1870s. Chinese residents were expelled from Ferndale, along with a host of other North Coast towns, in 1885. Ferndale is the western-most incorporated town in the lower-48 states. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

A United States military post was established at this location northeast of Crescent City on September 12, 1862 when troops from Fort Terwaw were relocated after it was wiped out by flooding on the Klamath River. The post was intended to keep peace between the Native American tribes and the miners and settlers of northwestern California. Tensions had risen as increasing numbers of whites, many with secessionist views, moved into the area. At the same time, members of the Tolowa and other tribes were being forcibly resettled to a reservation in the Smith River Valley. With the resurgence of gold mining in the region in the Spring of 1862, the majority of white men left their farms to mine in the hills. The remaining population felt vulnerable to raids by the Native Americans and petitioned the government to remove them. However, by the middle of 1863, hostilities had declined to the point where the Commanding Officer of the Humboldt Military District, Francis J. Lippitt, wrote “Camp Lincoln is useless. The few Indians left at Smith River are mostly old men, women and children, against whom whites need no protection.” It was abandoned in May 1870. The Commanding Officer’s quarters and one barracks are the only structures that remain.

At Elk Creek, on the north end of the long crescent beach that gives Crescent City its name, a Tolowa Village once existed. Known later as Indian Beach, the area of shacks in the photograph was first a whaler's camp in the 1850's, when Kanakas (Hawaiians) lived there. By 1916, some prostitutes lived in this area as it became exclusively a "red light district." The area no longer has any of its former shacks, nor had it in Easter 1964 when a tsunami wave swept the area clear. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Chinese workers initially came to northwest California after the discovery of gold along the Trinity River in 1850. As the importance of redwood lumber grew, Humboldt County became a destination in the global movement of workers. In the 1870s, Chinese workers built many of Humboldt County’s first roads and worked in lumber mills, ran laundries, and worked in salmon canneries. Eureka’s one-square-block Chinatown was depicted in the local press as particularly rife with sin, crime and contamination. There were false rumors of leprosy. Yet white people enjoyed eating in Chinese restaurants, watching dragon parades, and collecting Chinese porcelains. Tensions arose when the Chinese willingness to work long hours provoked contempt as lumbermen were organizing to establish an eight to ten hour day. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

In 1882, conflict erupted in Eureka’s Chinatown when a gunfight between Chinese residents accidently killed a white city councilman. White mobs broke into stores and looted and then forced Chinese to the docks to get them out of town. Within two days, there was not a single Chinese person left in Eureka. Later, white men went on strike after Fay’s Shingle Mill in Fairhaven (Samoa Island) hired 22 Chinese workers.. Lumbermen, financed by lumber baron John Vance and led by the Knights of Labor, marched to the mill and forced Fay to ship his Chinese employees out of the county on the next boat. Other mill owners followed suit. The towns of Crescent City, Arcata, Salmon Creek, Ferndale and Springville (now Fortuna) followed Eureka’s lead and expelled their Chinese residents around the same time. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

For 14 years after 1892, the Humboldt County Business Directory could claim they were “the only county in the state containing no Chinamen. But in 1906, 27 Chinese working men were secretly snuck back into the county to work at a cannery at Port Kenyon near the mouth of the Eel River. The response was swift and forceful. The Humboldt Times of October 3, 1906 wrote, “A thousand or more woodsmen are ready to flock to Fortuna from every nook and corner of the county … to eject the Chinese at Port Kenyon.” The Sacramento Union reported on October 4 that “Five hundred woodsmen convened at Fortuna this morning and demanded a guarantee be given that by 5 o’clock the Chinese would be deported.” By October 10, all of the Chinese workers were gone. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The two-mile long Arcata Wharf was built by the Union Wharf and Plank Walk Company in 1854 to transport lumber into deep water for loading onto ocean going ships. An early rail system had a white horse named “Spanking Fury” tow a cart out to the ships along wooden rails overlain with strap iron. The horse-drawn rail remained in service until the 1875 when it was replaced by a small steam locomotive named the Black Diamond. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Salmon is an anadromous fish species which means it can live in both fresh river water and salty ocean water. When salmon began their spawning runs each fall up the Klamath, the river’s mouth was full of boats and the boats were full of salmon. Some of the salmon that survived the fishermen made their way up to Klamath Lake in Oregon, some 260 miles upriver. The Klamath used to have the third largest salmon migration in the continental United States. Today, the historic numbers of salmon have been reduced by 90%. The completion in 1918 of the Copco 1 dam northeast of Yreka in California (plus three other dams on the Klamath), created an insurmountable obstacle for the salmon as they struggled to reach their natal streams in the marshy uplands near Klamath Lake. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Rek-woi, is possibly the only indigenous village site in California continuously inhabited for centuries by the same tribe, the Yurok. Because it sat outside the Klamath River Reservation established by U.S. President Franklin Pierce in 1855, whites were able to fish and establish commercial operations. The cannery between Requa and Hunter Creek, a mile up from the river’s mouth, hired Indians to work the cannery and fish, one cannery owner, John Baumhoff, signed an agreement with 26 Yuroks to provide nets and boats and paid the Indian workers 10 cents for every salmon weighing over ten pounds. Previous to the arrival of whites in the region, the Klamath River tribes (Yurok, Karuk, Hupa, and Klamath) helped keep order in the balance between humans and the fish by conducting low-level burns to prevent severe fires and promote game and useful plant species. After the California Gold Rush in 1849, and despite the U.S. signing 18 treaties with 134 Native communities in California, Congress refused to ratify the treaties and instead, California passed the 1850 “Act for the Government and Protection of Indians,. It allowed “any white person” to effectively enslave Native people. Bounties for Native scalps were 50 cents; five dollars for a head. When he signed the law, California Governor, Peter Burnett said that “a war of extermination will continue to be waged between the races until the Indian race becomes extinct must be expected.” This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The station was built in 1920 by Fredrick Dedrick, head of the California Sea Products Company, for the price of $300,000. At its peak, the station employed between 35 and 60 men, had a fleet of four “killing vessels”, and could capture and process up to nine whales per day. The whales were an average of 50 feet long and produced 50 barrels of oil each. Bone meal, fertilizer, and chicken feed were among the other products that came from the whales. The number of whales caught began to decline starting in 1924 due to overfishing, but mainly because the price for oil was dropping as companies such as Standard Oil were able to extract oil from the ground in greater quantities.The station closed in 1927 to the relief of Trinidad residents who didn’t care for the stench, but the company retrofitted an oil tanker into a whale processing factory which could follow the “killing boats” and process the whales at sea. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Eureka area was originally populated by the Wiyot people but with the California Gold Rush, white settlers quickly outnumbered the Wiyot. Many conflicts ensued, leading to the establishment of Fort Humboldt by the U.S. Army. The Army was not able to resolve the conflicts peacefully and the majority of the tribe was massacred during the “Wiyot Massacre” of 1860.The lumber boom followed the gold rush and the Eureka waterfront developed rapidly as a business district. This 1904 automobile repair shop was located at 5th and J Streets, now the site of the Humboldt County Correctional Facility. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

In May of 1908, the 16 battleships of President Roosevelt’s Great White Fleet passed by Trinidad Head on its way from San Francisco to Puget Sound. With its “peacetime white” hulls, its reported mission was to make friendly courtesy calls to many nations across the world, but at a time of rising tensions with Japan, the voyage also signaled the growth of the United States as a global naval power. It gave the Navy the opportunity to better understand the logistical needs of fleet operations far from home. After the U.S.’s success in the Spanish-American War and its new possession of Guam, the Philippines, and Puerto Rico, the balance of power in the Pacific had shifted and the fleet’s circumnavigation helped send a message to Tokyo that the U.S. Navy could be deployed anywhere to defend American interests. A significant source of the tensions with Japan was Japanese concern about the mistreatment of Japanese in California, resulting from 1907’s anti-Japanese riots in San Francisco. Fortunately, the fleet received a warm welcome in Yokohama in October and shortly thereafter, the U.S. and Japan signed the Root-Takihara Agreement that helped define each country’s sphere of influence in the Pacific. Due to vegetation growth, the modern photo had to be taken at a lower elevation than the original. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Mattole Road between Ferndale and Petrolia was built by Chinese workers as a stagecoach road in the late 1800s. This gateway to the Lost Coast of California is a 64-mile, steep and windy, narrow road built on an uplifted sea floor that is seismically very active and prone to landslides. It was built to serve the oil town of Petrolia, the location of the first oil well drilled in California. Sugarloaf Rock visible just off the Cape is the westernmost point in California and is part of the South Cape Mendocino State Marine Reserve, established in 2012. The Marine Reserve is essential breeding grounds for the Steller sea lion, Western gull, several species of cormorants, black oystercatcher, tufted puffin, and pigeon guillemot. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The old Redwood Highway linked Crescent City to Eureka and communities to the South. Before the first Klamath River bridge was built, travelers crossed the river by a ferry about ½ mile up from the river’s mouth, pushed along a secured cable by the river’s current. The first white man to operate a toll ferry on the Klamath at Requa was Morgan G. Tucker in 1876. His business was opposed by the Yurok tribe who had been transporting travelers across the river for a fee in their canoes.The ferry operated until late 1926 when the Douglas Memorial Bridge opened to traffic. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Trinidad Depot was built in 1907 next to the whaling station. The railway had four miles of track to haul lumber, shakes, fence posts, and pickets to the Trinidad Mill Company. Prior to 1907, the company had built a ½ mile long tramway to the wharf for shipping from their mill on the hill overlooking the bay. It was built on trestles over 60 feet high and powered by mules. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Up the Mattole Valley about 15 miles from Petrolia, the Hindley Farm was established in 1872, initially raising sheep and cattle. Over the years, reports emerged of oil seeping from the ground in a variety of locations. In 1865, Petrolia’s Union Well, the first producing oil well in California, produced 30 gallons of crude per day. Farmers and ranchers in the area tried their luck with varying degrees of success. Despite the claim by the Humboldt Times in August 1900 that “There is no doubt but that the richest oil fields in the world are in the Mattole country”, prospecting yielded little to no success. Most wells were abandoned by the early part of the twentieth century. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The early Crescent City-Trinidad Road was built on puncheons (short posts), paved with slabs of redwood. When the winter rains came, the dirt was washed away and water collected under the redwood slabs, “forming veritable geysers as vehicles drove over them.” As automobiles arrived on the scene, the old road proved to be inadequate. The Redwood Highway was authorized by a bond issue in 1909 but it was the Fall of 1917 before any action took place in Del Norte County. The highway followed the same route as the old stage road, south along the beach, past the Anderson Ranch and Cushing Creek, and up Ragged Ass Hill, clinging to the cliffs for three miles. Multiple slides over the next decade forced the Highway Commission to relocate a portion of the highway to its current configuration (which still is beset with landslides and is often under repair).In a victory for conservation, the California Highway Commission demanded the highway’s right-of-way throughout Del Norte and Humboldt Counties be unlogged so only those redwoods interfering with construction would be cut down. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

As Eureka modernized its transportation in favor of the automobile, the old streetcar system was no longer financially viable. On February 20, 1940, the last day of regular streetcar service, a trolley car was intentionally burned on Fifth Street between E and F Streets to celebrate the new era. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The rapid destruction of the redwood forest forced citizen groups, led mostly by women, to act to protect these leviathans of the land. Local chapters of the California Federation of Women’s Clubs made the first protective purchases of old-growth redwood groves. The Save-the-Redwoods League was formed, led by Newton Drury, to buy more land. Drury then guided the California State Parks to set aside major tracts of virgin redwood forest. The federal government established Redwood National Park in 1968 to protect and restore fragile watersheds that had been severely damaged by logging roads and clear-cutting.

The Corkscrew Tree is located in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, a short walk from the Newton B. Drury Parkway. It was formed as a “family (or faerie) circle” when buds from the basal burl burst forth and grew into four new trees, all connected to the “mother” tree at her base. Why did the four trees twist around the trunk of the mother tree? Perhaps neighboring trees fell, casting more light that the budding trees grew towards. It’s a mystery. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

On a camping trip to the redwoods in Del Norte State Park, President Hoover visited lumber company officials but refused to meet with Save the Redwoods League representatives. He didn't believe federal money should be used to establish redwood parks. He did, however, believe that the California state government should act to protect the trees. In a 1921 telegram to California Governor W.D. Stephens, then Secretary of Commerce Hoover wrote, “As a California citizen. I do hope you may see your way to completion of the act providing for the purchase of the Northern California redwoods. They are indeed one of the glories of California. I do not believe we would ever forgive ourselves if we see their destruction.” Gifford Pinchot, the first Director of the U.S. Forest Service, is second from left. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Located in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, the Julia Morgan-designed Hearthstone commemorates the women’s clubs in Humboldt County who convinced the California Federation of Women’s Clubs to purchase acreage of old growth redwoods. The clubs campaigned for two decades to save the redwoods from logging. Women’s civic clubs provided an avenue for influence when women were mostly excluded from business and politics. They often encouraged women’s interest in nature, particularly after 1900 when new technologies increased logging in Humboldt. In February, 1907, the Humboldt Times lamented the loss of the forests, stating “the uncouth hand of man scars and gashes the beautiful face of nature in Humboldt” while “the smooth and gentle hand of woman can touch the wound and heal them.” This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Newton Drury is probably the most significant figure in the historical protection of California’s coastal redwoods. Not long after graduating from UC Berkeley, he was asked to manage the Save the Redwoods League where he served as either Executive Director, President, or Chairman for a total of 39 years. Under his leadership, the League preserved nearly 50,000 acres of coast redwoods and the Calaveras Grove of giant sequoias. Drury also helped create the state park system in California and became its Land Acquisitions Officer. During his tenure, the state park system grew to 150 parks, beaches, and historic monuments. In 1940, he became Director of the National Park System and was able to protect the parks from being used as training sites for mountain warfare and against logging for sitka spruce for its use in airplane construction. John D Rockefeller, Jr, was only 11 years old in 1926 when he first visited the old-growth redwoods in what is now Humboldt Redwoods State Park. He had a conversation with Newton Drury about what it would take to save the ancient trees. This talk inspired the Rockefellers’ first and subsequent gifts to purchase over 9,000 acres of timberland with matching contributions from the state. The “Rockefeller Forest” was so named in 1952 and is the largest contiguous stand of old-growth coast redwoods in the world. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The 5.6 mile (round trip) Boy Scout Tree Trail was built by Boy Scouts from Crescent City in the 1930s after a scout leader discovered it. The twin trunks of the tree are 240 feet tall and 23 feet in diameter. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Gold strikes throughout the redwood region were common in the 1850s and 60s. Gold Bluffs Beach was said to be covered with bright and yellow gold. Some called it the “richest diggings in California”. In fact, separating the gold flakes from the black sands was prohibitively expensive and the reputation of the beach as a place to get rich diminished quickly. In 1963, the California Highway Commission proposed an expansion of the Redwood Highway to a four-lane freeway. The California State Parks, Save-the-Redwoods League, and conservationists opposed this idea so the Division of Highways proposed running the freeway along the 9 mile stretch of Gold Bluffs Beach. After much debate, this proposal was shelved and a by-pass was built outside the park to its east. The original two-lane roadway was renamed the Newton B. Drury Parkway at the suggestion of the Save-the-Redwoods League, “to honor the man most responsible for the purchase and protection of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.” This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Redwood National Park was established in 1968 to preserve significant examples of ancient coast redwood forests and the streams and seashores that they are associated with. It incorporated 58,000 acres, including nine miles of Redwood Creek in the lower one-third of the watershed. One floodplain within that corridor contains what were at that time the tallest measured trees in the world, the Tall Trees Grove. This nine-mile corridor however was only a half-mile wide, providing only a quarter-mile buffer of protection on either side of Redwood Creek. The remainder of the 280 square mile Redwood Creek watershed remained in private ownership, primarily by timber companies. At the dedication ceremony of the Lady Bird Johnson Grove, attended by the current president, Richard Nixon, the past president, Lyndon Johnson, the future president and then Governor of California Ronald Reagan, as well as Congressman Don Clausen (who authored the House bill to establish Redwood National Park), Lady Bird Johnson said, “Conservation is indeed a bipartisan business because all of us have the same stake in this magnificent continent. All of us have the same love for it and the same feeling that it is going to belong to our children and grandchildren and their grandchildren.” This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

After Redwood National Park was established, logging continued at the margins of the park. Road building and log skidding disrupted natural hydrologic patterns. During heavy rains, erosion was accelerated and sediment from denuded slopes poured downslope filling pools, burying stream habitat, and threatening to destroy the spawning habitat for salmon and kill the root systems of the ancient redwoods that remained. After scientific studies and pressure from concerned citizens and environmental organizations, the federal government agreed that further protection was necessary for the irreplaceable resources of the recently established park. In 1978, the United States Congress expanded the park boundaries to include areas upslope of the narrow nine-mile section described in the previous photo. The Redwood Expansion Act of 1978 provided funding and directed the park to initiate and develop a watershed restoration program which is described next. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Truck roads and skid-roads were a primary contributor of excessive erosion and sedimentation to Redwood Creek. The roads that the timber companies built were generally designed to achieve the extraction of the planned harvest area at the lowest cost, without regard to long-term maintenance or environmental impacts. Haul truck roads without proper drainage can become saturated and cause landslides; where roads cross streams without adequate drainage structures, they can become plugged, saturated, and fail directly into the stream. The so-called skid roads, used by bulldozers to drag logs on steep slopes to the main roads, became depressions that would carry surface flow to create a new, unnatural drainage network. A key restoration strategy, therefore, was the removal of logging roads. Note the arrow pointing to a stump behind the excavator’s bucket in the 2008 photo. This is the removal of a road stream crossing in action. The excavator has uncovered, and is removing, a log that was buried parallel to the stream flow during original road construction. This technique, known as a “Humboldt Crossing”, was a common practice for building logging roads over small streams in the 1950s to the early 1970s. In the 2022 photo, NPS geologist Greg Gibbs is standing next to that same stump, barely visible behind all the alder despite wearing an orange safety-vest. The Alder is 100-percent volunteer, natural revegetation; nothing was planted here after the road was removed. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Redwood Expansion Act of 1978 added 30,000 acres of logged lands to Redwood National Park and established 33,000 acres of private land upstream as a Park Protection Zone. The Act also directed the National Park Service to develop a watershed restoration program. Early experimentation determined that a minimalist approach to control erosion would not be sufficient in the face of major storms. Such events occur with increasingly regularity as the planet warms. Scientists realized that removing the erosion threat from the landscape was a race against time and the use of heavy equipment to mitigate the threats was necessary. Bulldozers and excavators were brought in to remove stream-crossings, re-expose the original streambeds, take out road fill, and uncover the original topsoil. The land was recontoured to mimic its original shape, woody debris was scattered to stabilize the hillsides and reduce erosion, and organic matter was added to the soil. Notice in the 2008 photo that the old road corridor mimics the shape of the surrounding hillslope, and the logs are spread over the finished surface. This logging road crossed the stream where the bulldozer is working in the photo. Alder, ferns, huckleberry, and some small fir has revegetated the disturbance created by the 2008 restoration. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

240 linear feet of the stream in this 2008 photo was buried beneath twenty feet of collapsing fill and large wood at the downstream end, and the upstream 90 feet consisted of fine sediment up to twelve feet deep. Note the yellow arrow pointing at the snag still visible in the 2022 photo. The National Park Service mission to preserve unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and NPS values for future generations is usually achieved by management within the park boundary. Redwood National Park is different than most national parks in that honoring the NPS mission required the acquisition and restoration of property adjacent to the park. Consequently, understanding the interactions between land use and watershed processes became the major focus in the effort to achieve the NPS mission by minimizing the impacts and threat to park resources from previous land use within and outside the park. The “volunteer” Alder that has naturally populated the restored areas is a “pioneer” species, able to establish a presence in areas that won’t support most other species. It fixes nitrogen well and helps fertilize even the poorest soils, initiating the succession of other plant species, including Sequoia Sempervirens (Coast Redwood). This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The excavator in the 2009 photo is removing logs from a collapsed “stringer” bridge that consisted of several logs laid down across the stream, perpendicular to stream flow. Over time, the bridge collapsed, causing sediment to collect to a depth of eight feet upstream of the crossing. Note that the stump visible in both photos (yellow arrow) is higher in the 2022 photo. This is because the streambed, and thus photo point, is significantly lower after the crossing was completely removed (2022 photo). The Redwood Expansion Act of 1978 was the most expensive land acquisition in National Park Service history because it included not only the purchase of land, but the timber companies were also paid the revenues they would lose from future harvests. However, the Act has proven to be an engine of economic development for the Redwood region, from Ferndale to Crescent City. Not only does the National Park and its partner state parks bring tourism, but the restoration projects hire local lumbermen, timber contractors, and Native American tribal members. The watershed restoration effort at Redwood National Park has become more holistic with its monitoring and interventions at an ecosystem level. For example, forest management of logged lands has become integrated with road removal under our newest paradigm, Redwoods Rising. The restoration work is a showcase of the cultural, economic, and ecological benefits that can accrue when humans repair the damage we have caused to our ecological systems. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Water - a lot of it. 40 to 100 inches of rain fall each year on the north coast. Rivers swell and sometimes flood with devastating impact. Landslides destroy roads and rail lines. The ocean’s unrelenting force carves a rugged coastline and occasional tsunamis explode onto the land wiping out whole towns.

Crescent City was founded in 1853 as a shipping and trade center, supplying miners who had come to this northwestern coastal town after the discovery of gold on the Trinity River in 1848. When the Battery Point Lighthouse was completed in 1856, Crescent Bay opened up as an important harbor. The area experienced a timber boom as Northern California grew throughout the second half o the 19th Century and locally produced lumber was brought to Crescent City for reshipment to San Francisco and other ports. The topography of the sea floor near Crescent City and the town’s proximity to its bay has contributed to a series of damaging tsunamis in its history. Just since 1933, 32 tsunamis have been recorded, five of which caused damage, most notably the 1964 event. Much of Front Street, the location of the Cushing House and Bay Hotel in the 1853 photograph, was obliterated by the 1964 tsunami. The concrete building that replaced it, the Surf Apartments, was built to withstand most any assault from the sea. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

On March 27, 1964, Anchorage, Alaska’s Good Friday earthquake, the largest ever recorded in North America measuring 9.2 on the Richter scale, shot waves down the coast. Four of them slammed into Crescent City, destroying hundreds of buildings and killing 12 people. The first waves caused only minor flooding so residents weren’t too worried. However, shortly after the first waves, the water in the bay receded to ¾ of a mile from the shore. As the keepers for the Battery Point Lighthouse wrote, “We were looking down, as though from a high mountain, into a black abyss. It was a mystic labyrinth of caves, canyons, basins, and pits, undreamed of in the wildest of fantasies.” Then a wall of water, estimated to be 75-feet high, came crashing through the town. When it was over, “The whole beachfront was a mass of destruction. Logs, boats, furniture, cars, along with buildings were tossed helter skelter.” This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Mattole Valley is just south of Cape Mendocino and historically very remote from the Redwood Empire communities of Ferndale, Fortuna, and Eureka. Until a long and winding road that could handle engine-powered trucks was built in 1919, the only commercially viable way in and out was by boat. The Mattole Wharf, built in 1908, was located on a particularly rough patch of the sea, buffeted by drifting logs and debris, heavy pounding waves, and strong currents. The road and railway that connected the wharf with the town of Petrolia was regularly damaged by floods and landslides. The wharf finally closed down for good in 1918. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Christmas flood of 1964 that wiped out the town was part of a much bigger flood event that encompassed about 200,000 square miles (roughly the size of France), left thousands homeless, caused 47 deaths, and $540 million in damage. A series of atmospheric rivers battered areas in Oregon, Idaho, Washington, Nevada and Northern California, producing as much as 15 inches of rain in 24 hours. This pair of photos is located outside the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

The Douglas Memorial Bridge opened for traffic in 1926, driving the ferry near the mouth of the Klamath River out of business. It was named for Dr. Gustave H. Douglas, an important proponent of a bridge across the Klamath that would link Del Norte with the roads of Humboldt County and southward.During the massive flood of December, 1964, two sections on the south side of the bridge were battered by huge logs and the sheer force of the river’s current. They were washed away as was the northern approach and the town of Klamath. This pair of photos is located within the boundaries of Redwood National and State Parks.

Redwood National and State Parks are home to a rich and diverse ecosystem that includes ancient forests, vibrant wildlife, and dynamic waterways. From majestic elk resting in shaded meadows to the delicate blooms of red-petaled flowers, these parks showcase nature’s intricate beauty and seasonal rhythms. Discover the animals that thrive here, explore the history of these magnificent landscapes through photo projects, and learn about ongoing efforts to restore rivers, streams, and habitats crucial to the parks’ health.

The parks act as a living laboratory, where experts use prescribed fire to manage ecosystems and monitor how redwoods respond to climate change. Partnerships and innovative restoration projects ensure the future of these lands, with stories of success like the return of the California condor. Select an image below to learn more about the fascinating world of Redwood National and State Parks, where nature and science unite to preserve and protect these treasured landscapes.

Find out what animals call the waters and forests of Redwood National and State Parks home.

Understand how the park is responding to climate change. Learn how redwood trees are reacting.

Redwood National and State Parks are home to a remarkable diversity of bird species, with approximately 280 species recorded within the parks’ boundaries—nearly one-third of all bird species found across the United States. This diversity is due to the variety of habitats available within the parks, from coastal areas to forested regions, each supporting a unique range of birdlife.

Visitors can explore these habitats and discover dozens of species in a single day, making the parks a prime destination for bird enthusiasts. Below, you’ll find information on common species found in the different redwood habitats, along with resources to aid in bird identification. For more detailed insights, the Klamath Inventory and Monitoring Network provides online newsletters highlighting the bird populations in the area.

Redwood National Park is exploring efforts to reintroduce the California condor , one of North America's most iconic and endangered birds. This proposed project aims to restore these majestic birds to their historic range within the park, enhancing the biodiversity of the region and providing a unique opportunity for visitors to witness the species in its natural habitat once again.

In the far southeastern portion of the parks is dominated by extensive Oregon oak woodlands and grasslands. Open country birds and oak specialists are best seen here. Common species include: red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) , white-tailed kite (Elanus leucurus) , acorn wodpecker (Melanerpes formicivorus) , california quail (Callipepla californica) , western scrub jay (Aphelocoma californica) , western bluebird ( Sialia mexican) , black-throated gray warbler (Setophaga nigrescens) , merlin (Falco columbarius ) and western meadowlark (Sturnella neglecta) . Access to the area is via the Bald Hills Road and the Dolason and Lyon's Ranch Trails.

Looking to enhance your birdwatching experience at Redwood National and State Parks? Download our comprehensive bird checklist (PDF) to help identify and track the diverse species you may encounter during your visit. This handy guide is perfect for exploring the parks' varied habitats and spotting everything from common species to rare sightings.

Visitors mostly come to Redwood National and State Parks just to see the pockets of remaining old-growth redwoods . They are the world's tallest trees, but they are also just one species in an incredibly varied ecosystem. From the wind-pruned, salt-tolerant Sitka spruce by the seaside, to the cool, moist redwood groves, and sunny, open grasslands of the prairies, visitors can find an interconnected community of greenery. Coastal Areas In this narrow zone where land meets sea, salt-laden winds, cold fog-shrouded days, steep slopes, and sandy beaches conspire against plants. Only the toughest survive. Their stunted size and wind-pruned shapes bear witness to an ongoing bout with the parks' harshest environment. Dunes shift with the action of wind and water. Beach pea ( Lathyrus littoralis ), beach strawberry ( Fragaria chiloensis ), and sand verbena ( Abronia spp.) adapt to this dynamic environment by anchoring themselves with long runners on or below the surface.

Hardy Sitka spruce ( Picea sitchensis ), able to withstand salt winds and harsh conditions better than other conifers, dominate the most exposed forest sites. Crescent Beach, Gold Bluffs Beach, Freshwater Lagoon Spit, and the Coastal Trail are great places to discover these tenacious maritime residents. Along the coast you will likely see hills covered in white alder . In winter these trees loose their leaves and their white trunks and limbs stand out along the coastal hills. Rivers and Low Elevations Pacific poison oak is a common and important species across Redwood National and State Parks. Many people are delighted to find towering Bigleaf maple ( Acer macrophyllum ) trees along streams and rivers here. We even have dragons (well, dragon lichen ).

The coast redwood ( Sequoia sempervirens ) and Douglas-fir ( Pseudotsuga menziesii ) are the two dominant trees of the old-growth redwood forest. The species associated with redwood groves varies according to whether an area is upland, streamside (riparian), along a flood plain (alluvial), or close to the ocean. Many kinds of moss, like the Electrified Cat's Tail moss are found in the redwood groves.

Salt spray and salt-laden wind injure redwoods; the beach, dune, and scrub communities provide the coast redwood with a buffer from the harsh coastal climate.

The protected valleys and alluvial flats found along streams and creeks provide ideal growing conditions for the coast redwood, with many trees exceeding 300 feet (100 meters) in height. Other trees include hardwoods such as tanoak ( Lithocarpus densiflorus ), madrone ( Arbutus menziesii ), California bay or laurel ( Umbellularia californica ), and red alder ( Alnus rubra ). Sword fern ( Polystichum munitum ) and redwood sorrel ( Oxalis oregana ) are the most common members of redwoods' understory, and are accompanied by rhododendron ( Rhododendron macrophyllum ), huckleberry ( Vaccinium spp.), salal ( Gaultheria shallon ), azalea ( Rhododendron occidentale ), common snowberry ( Symphoricarpos albus) and other shrubs.

On drier ridges like where the Lady Bird Johnson Grove is, redwood growth is limited by water stress and wind damage. Here, redwoods may reach an average height of 200 feet (61 meters) or less. Higher Elevations and Bald Hills (+1,500 feet) At higher elevations, and further inland, redwood seedling establishment is limited by hotter, drier conditions, and the redwood forest gives way to a mixed evergreen forest. Dry forest species include Douglas-fir , tanoak, madrone , California bay, chinquapin ( Chrysolepis chrysophylla ), canyon live oak ( Quercus chrysolepis ), Oregon Grape and Jeffrey pine ( Pinus jeffreyi ). Many people enjoy the spring lupine blooms in the Bald Hills. There are a small number of sugar pines too in the high elevations of the park.

Many miles of the parks' riparian habitats (rivers, creeks, and streams) were damaged by 20th century redwood logging, construction of logging roads, and also by landslides when the logging roads failed. Since 1978, we have been working on restoration projects that help riparian ecosystems recover. This benefits all creatures big and small.

See how Park staff, Save the Redwoods League staff, and Yurok Tribal restoration crews use heavy machinery to strategically place "large wood" into a stream channel. This large wood will improve the riparian habitat by slowing down the river flow and create better spawning conditions for salmon. Time lapse video and unique aerial footage highlights this restoration program.

Ranger Anica discusses efforts to restore the Mill Creek watershed in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park (part of Redwood National and State Parks)—a vital stronghold for threatened Pacific salmon.

Left image The water flow is blocked by an earthen bridge and failed culverts. Coho salmon are unable to migrate and spawn upstream. Credit: NPS

Right image After restoration water flows freely and large wood has been placed to provide refuge and habitat for fish. Credit: NPS

Left image Godwood Creek flows over cobbles and has good water quality. Credit: NPS: Neal Youngblood

Even though they are only a mile apart in the Greater Prairie Creek Watershed, Godwood and May Creek have totally different stories and very different health. Godwood Creek was protected in 1923 by the creation of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and it supports a wide range of wildlife and it flows normally. The redwoods around Godwood Creek were not logged. The redwoods along May Creek were clear-cut in the early 1960s before this landscape was incorporated into the boundaries of Redwood National Park. The quality of this creek is poor. It is an example of a riparian system that is blocked by sediment, it does not flow well, and it can not support salmon. May Creek is to be restored by Redwoods Rising .

Left image The creek has no large wood in the channel and has little variation in its flow. Credit: CDPR

Redwood National and State Parks boast an impressive diversity of terrestrial mammals, ranging from tiny shrews that scurry through the forest floor to the majestic Roosevelt elk , which can weigh up to 1,200 pounds (544 kg). The parks support 66 known mammal species, including 13 different types of bats and the non-native Virginia opossum. These mammals inhabit a variety of ecosystems within the parks, including dense redwood forests, coastal grasslands, oak woodlands, and riparian areas along rivers and creeks.

Some of these mammals, like the black-tailed deer and Roosevelt elk, are commonly seen grazing in meadows and open spaces throughout the year, while others, such as the black bear and mountain lion, may roam the parks as part of larger territories that extend beyond park boundaries. These larger carnivores play vital roles in maintaining ecological balance by regulating prey populations and helping to shape their habitats.

Certain species, especially the bats, are present only during specific times of the year. Migratory bats arrive during breeding seasons or as they move between habitats, using the parks as critical stopover points. Others, like the river otter, are semi-aquatic and thrive along the parks’ streams, rivers, and coastlines, while small nocturnal mammals, including woodrats and voles, are often only visible at night.

The variety of habitats and the parks’ relatively untouched ecosystems provide essential refuges for these species, showcasing the parks’ importance as a sanctuary for wildlife. This diverse range of mammals contributes to the ecological richness and complexity of the parks, offering visitors a glimpse into the dynamic natural world that thrives within the redwood landscape.

Many small mammals in the parks are seldom seen due to their nocturnal (active at night) or fossorial (living underground) habits. These include:

Signs of these mammals are often easier to spot than the animals themselves. For example:

The nocturnal dusky-footed woodrat is another rarely observed rodent, but their large stick houses are often visible on tree stumps or at the base of trees. Known as “pack-rats,” these animals collect both natural and human-made items for their nests.

While spotting carnivores in the parks is rare, it is possible to observe:

River otters are also present, often seen along creek gravel bars, ocean beaches, and rocky coastlines. Their scat, typically filled with crab and crayfish shells, is a common sign of their presence.

Roosevelt elk and black-tailed deer are among the most frequently observed mammals, inhabiting lowland coastal grasslands, redwood forests, and the Bald Hills prairies and oak woodlands. Other commonly seen species include:

North American beavers can sometimes be seen in Redwood Creek and its tributaries. They build bank lodges and dams, creating small ponds. Signs of beaver activity include dams and plugged culverts, often the result of beavers piling sticks into openings.

Below are some of the mammals you may encounter in Redwood National and State Parks:

Redwood Creek, part of the Backcountry list, is the only area in the park where dispersed camping is allowed. Dave Van de Mark Find Your Perfect Campsite: Developed or Backcountry? Camping is the only way to stay overnight in Redwood National and State Parks. Whether you prefer the convenience of a developed campground with essential amenities or the solitude of backcountry camping along miles of scenic trails, there’s an option for every type of camper. With the right preparation, your overnight stay can be a rewarding and unforgettable experience.

Family of six gather around a campground picnic table. NPS: John Chao Overnight Camping in the Park Choose between developed campgrounds with easy access to amenities or backcountry campsites for a more remote experience. Developed Campgrounds The park has four developed campgrounds managed by California State Parks. These campgrounds offer essential amenities for tent and RV campers. Reservations are strongly recommended, especially in summer. Backcountry Camping For those seeking solitude, the park has seven designated backcountry campsites along 200 miles of trails. A free permit is required. Lodging & Camping Outside the Park There are no hotels or lodges within the park, but lodging and additional camping options are available in nearby communities. Lodging and Camping Options Outside of the Park Hammock Policy To protect the park’s trees, hammocks, ropes, and similar equipment are not allowed, as they can strip bark and cause long-term damage.

More Than Just Redwood Forests Redwood National and State Parks offer a variety of experiences beyond the iconic redwood trees. Stop by one of our five visitor centers to learn more, or join a free ranger-led program. You can also visit park stores operated by the Redwood Parks Conservancy for redwood-related gifts and books, or shop from the comfort of home.

Prairie Creek Visitor Center, located in the southern end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway - in the heart of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. 6.5 miles north of Orick. NPS photo. Visitor Centers at Redwood National and State Parks Stop by one of the five visitor centers for trip-planning advice, park information, exhibits, and park store sales. Each location offers unique features to help enhance your visit. Ranger-Guided Tours and Programs may be available during the season. What About Locations and Hours? There are five park visitor centers which have different locations, hours and seasons. Follow this link to: Learn more about each visitor center Hiouchi Visitor Center Jedediah Smith Visitor Center Crescent City Information Center Prairie Creek Visitor Center Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center Ranger Tips: What to Know Before You Go Check Conditions: Before your visit, review current conditions—trails, facilities, or roads may be temporarily closed. Short on Time? Explore our Trip Ideas for quick recommendations. Maps & Orientation: For navigation, use this website or pick up an official park map. Below are must-see locations, listed from Crescent City in the north to Orick in the south. Lodging & Camping Redwood National and State Parks offer some designated campgrounds within the parks , but all hotels and other lodging options are located outside park boundaries. Whether you're looking for a cozy campsite beneath towering redwoods or a comfortable stay in a nearby town, there are plenty of options but be sure to plan ahead, as accommodations can fill up quickly, especially during peak seasons. Park Stores Redwood Parks Conservancy operates the park stores, offering mementos, books, maps, and gifts. Proceeds support parks and public lands along California’s northern coast.

Explore Redwood by Road, Trail, and Bike Whether you prefer a scenic drive through towering redwoods, a hike along misty coastal trails, or a bike ride through ancient forests , Redwood National and State Parks offer countless ways to experience the beauty of this diverse landscape. Cruise along winding parkways and backcountry roads for breathtaking views, trek beneath the world’s tallest trees, or pedal through lush meadows and rugged terrain. No matter your pace, there’s a route for every adventurer.

Trip Ideas – Ranger Tips for an Unforgettable Visit With so much to explore in Redwood National and State Parks, planning your visit can feel overwhelming. To help you make the most of your time, our knowledgeable visitor center staff have put together these recommendations based on how long you have: You have less than an hour . You have a full day and are driving the length of the parks. You can spend a full day in the southern half of the parks. You can spend a full day in the northern half of the parks. You can spend many days in the parks.

At A Glance: Scenic Drives and Hikes Howland Hill Road : A 10-mile scenic drive through old-growth redwoods, following Mill Creek. Walk the ½-mile trail through the towering trees of Stout Grove. Important - Please note, this road is too narrow for RVs, motorhomes, and trailers. Enderts Beach and Crescent Beach Overlook : Enjoy stunning Pacific Ocean views from Crescent Beach Overlook. Take a 1-mile walk to Enderts Beach, where you can explore colorful tidepools. Be sure to check tide times in advance. Important - Trailers not advised. Klamath River Overlook : A prime location for viewing the gray whale migration and seabirds. A steep ¼-mile trail leads to even more breathtaking views. Important - Motorhomes, recreational vehicles, and trailers not advised due to narrow road conditions and a very small parking lot. Coastal Drive : This 8-mile road offers spectacular ocean views, a World War II radar station, and the Highbluff Overlook. Look for seabirds on the offshore rocks. Trailers and motorhomes are prohibited on the gravel section of the road. Important - Motorhomes and trailers are prohibited on gravel section. Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway : This 10-mile scenic drive through ancient redwoods rivals even the Avenue of the Giants. Stop at the Big Tree wayside and take the 1/8-mile walk to see massive redwoods up close. This is the best scenic drive for motorhomes, RVs, or trailers. If you’re traveling with a pet, visit nearby Cal Barrel Road for a beautiful walk among the redwoods. Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon : Drive along Davison Road (no trailers, and a 24-foot length limit) to reach Gold Bluffs Beach. Fern Canyon is famous for its 30-foot fern-covered walls, but be prepared for wet feet and summer crowds. Reservations are required for Fern Canyon and Gold Bluffs Beach Day-Use Area from May 15th to September 15th. Reservations can only be made online. Wildlife and Trails Elk Meadow Day Use Area : A perfect spot for a picnic, watching Roosevelt elk, or starting a hike or bike ride . Many trails connect from this location, making it ideal for outdoor activities. Trillium Falls Trail : A ranger favorite, this 2½-mile loop takes you through old-growth redwoods and past a small waterfall. The trail starts at Elk Meadow Day Use Area, which also offers plenty of parking. Enjoy your adventure in the redwoods!

Tall Trees Grove, Fern Canyon, special events, commercial filming, backcountry camping, etc.

A variety of biking opportunities and experiences are found along tens of miles of trails and roads.

Trails for Every Explorer No matter your comfort level or experience, Redwood National and State Parks offer a variety of walking and hiking options. To help plan your visit, the Klamath River serves as a boundary between the park's northern and southern areas. Crescent City and Hiouchi are located in the north, Klamath is central, and Orick is in the south. Before You Go: Always check weather and park conditions prior to your trip. Storms and other hazards can lead to temporary road and trail closures. Questions to Consider: Do you have less than an hour, or a full day for your hike? Are you visiting during winter or summer? (Some trails with footbridges are only open in summer.) What is the fitness level of your group? Which area of the parks are you planning to visit? Do you need parking for an RV? Are you ready to navigate dirt roads? What are your accessibility needs? Are you traveling with a pet? For more detailed information on walks, hikes, and trails, refer to our visitor centers, visitor guide, newspaper , and backcountry trip planner. Do I Need a Permit? Permits are required for Gold Bluffs Beach/Fern Canyon ((summer) and Tall Trees Trails (year-round) due to limited parking.

Hikes By Time Whether you have an hour or a full day, there’s a trail that fits your schedule. Short walks lead to towering trees and quiet groves, while longer hikes reveal sweeping vistas, hidden waterfalls, and the full beauty of the redwood forest. With hundreds of miles of trails, you can choose the experience that’s right for you—whether it’s a quick stop or a full day of exploration. Click on one of the feature images, below, to learn more about the hike.

Hikes by Region The trails of Redwood National and State Parks span towering forests, rugged coastlines, and winding rivers. Whether you're exploring the northern or southern reaches of the park or following the Coastal Trail for miles of breathtaking scenery, each region offers a unique way to experience this landscape. Choose your path and discover what makes each area special. Click on one of the features images, below, to learn more about the region and it's hiking options.

Some trails are wheelchair accessible. NPS photo. Accessible Trails Explore the forests and coasts on these more accessible trails. Some are fully wheelchair accessible, while others feature wide, level paths and/or paved walking surfaces. Many include benches along the route. Please note that not all trailheads have reserved accessible parking.

An all-terrain track chair, beach wheelchairs, and standard wheelchairs are also available for loan at certain park visitor centers, free of charge. North: Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park Simpson-Reed Grove Leiffer Loop South: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Big-Tree Wayside Elk Prairie Trail Foothills - Prairie Creek Loop Revelation Trail . Note: The Lady Bird Johnson Trail in Redwood National Park is partially paved, but it has some steeper slopes and is not considered accessible for hikers using mobility aids.

"No Pets Allowed" icon. Pets on Trails? Pets are not allowed on national and state park trails, as even well-behaved animals can disturb wildlife and impact the fragile ecosystem. However, there are pet-friendly options within the parks. Leashed dogs are welcome on Cal Barrel Road , where you can enjoy a walk beneath towering old-growth redwoods. Your dog can also become a BARK! Ranger —learn more about this program and other pet guidelines in the park.

What To Expect? More than 200 miles of trails weave through a variety of environments; including prairies, old-growth redwood forests, and beaches. Elevations range from sea level to just over 3,000 feet (1,000 m). Consistently mild temperatures make year-round exploration a possibility. The parks' trails are well maintained - though weather conditions may make the trails slippery. Few trails are paved.

Due to the wet winters and the strong winds we have, large trees often fall, and they will block trails. These natural events will cause a trail closure. Find out more about current conditions.

Walking through a redwood grove on a fog-shrouded morning can be an unforgettable experience. Sounds are reduced to the musical gurgle of water trickling amongst ferns and mossy rocks. Light ebbs with the somber mist and shafts of sun hang like cobwebs. Stillness and peace weave their spells upon the respectful traveler.

Seasonal Bridges In summer, seasonal foot-bridges are constructed across some waterways to allow for easier access to some of the parks' frontcountry, and backcountry highlights. Check our current conditions page for day-today updates on the bridges. Depending of the water-levels, these footbridges can installed by June and may be removed by October. These trails are not wheelchair accessible. Redwood Creek's bridges are in the backcountry of Redwood National Park and allow for easier access to several backcountry campsites. Fern Canyon's bridges are in the front-country of Prairie Creek State Park. Fern Canyon is a popular summer destination, and it will be very busy. Smith River's bridges in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park allow for walking access to Stout Grove.

70 miles (142 km) of Coastal Trail offers hikers options for short walks, day-long trips, and even multi-day adventures.

Explore the forests and coasts on these more accessible trails. Some are fully wheelchair accessible, while others feature wide, level paths and/or paved walking surfaces. Many include benches along the route. Please note that not all trailheads have reserved accessible parking. An all-terrain track chair, beach wheelchairs, and standard wheelchairs are also available for loan at certain park visitor centers, free of charge.