Pecos National Historical Park ⓘ

In the oral traditions of the Pecos People, their ancestors migrated from far to the northwest. When they reached what is now Northern New Mexico, part of the group split off to the east. These people became the P’aékish, or Pecos People. The rest of the people continued west to settle at today’s Jemez Pueblo, 70 miles west of Santa Fe. The Pecos People were traders and farmers. At multicultural trade fairs, Plains tribes brought slaves, buffalo hides, flint, and shells to trade. Pueblo people from the Rio Grande Pueblos to the west brought pottery, crops, textiles, and turquoise. Some goods, such as macaw feathers and shells, came from far flung places such as Mexico and the Pacific and Gulf Coasts. Pecos People were middlemen (and women), literally, traders and consumers of the goods and ideas of the very different people. They became economically powerful and practiced in the arts and customs of two worlds. They gained skills in diplomacy and languages so that they could communicate across cultures. As farmers, Pecos People raised corn, beans, and squash. They hunted game such as rabbits and deer and gathered pinon nuts. Their homes contained pottery and tools from all over the Southwest. By the 1100s, people in this valley had come together in multi-storied towns overlooking the streams and fields that nourished their crops. In the 1400s, these groups gathered into Pecos Pueblo, which became a regional power. As the Pecos People moved through their world, they relied on practical science filled with spirituality. With story and dance, tradition-bearers taught the knowledge and wisdom of centuries past. Their religion bound all things together and held balance, harmony, and fitness as the highest ideals. But ideals did not always prevail. Warfare between Pueblo groups was common. The frontier people of Pecos sometimes fought and sometimes traded with nomadic Plains Tribes. Neighboring pueblos saw the Pecos as dominant. The invading Spaniards would soon learn that the Pecos could be powerful allies or determined enemies. When the Spanish arrived at Pecos in 1541 (link), the expedition’s scribe noted “2000 inhabitants” and that there was a fighting force 500 men strong. Descendents of the people who lived at Pecos Pueblo now live at Jemez Pueblo, among other places. Their language, Towa, is widely spoken in the Pueblo and taught to children. They consult with the National Park Service on important park decisions. Members of Jemez Pueblo are also regular visitors at Pecos NHP. One special annual celebration of reconnection happens each summer: Feast Day (scroll down for photos!). Want to learn more? Visit the Jemez Pueblo website , for insight about the Pecos descendants today. Read about the Pecos Pueblo or the Spanish Friars and Colonists .

In 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado led an expedition to establish a new colony for Spain while looking for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold--Cibola. Leading an army of 1,200 men, most of which were Aztecs, Coronado made his way into the country north of Mexico. Six months into the march, they rode into a cluster of Zuni pueblos, Cibola, near present-day Gallup. He attacked the Zuni at Hawikuh, taking over the principal pueblo and its food stores for his famished soldiers. However, 150 miles east at P`ǽkilâ, which would be called "Pecos" by the Spanish, the reception was different. The people there welcomed the Spaniards with music and gifts. A native at Pecos told of a rich land to the east, Quivira, and Coronado set out in spring 1541 to find it. Wandering as far as Kansas, he found only a few villages. His indigenous guide confessed he lured the army on to the plains to die, and Coronado had him strangled. The expedition turned back to find a less hospitable Pecos Pueblo as the people were not happy with their return. Eventually, the broken army returned to Mexico empty-handed, harassed by Indians along the way. The Pecos people had their first interaction with a strange new world. Nevertheless, once Coronado's expedition left, the Pueblos settled back into their old ways, unbeknownst of the future that lay ahead.

Nearly 60 years passed before Spaniards came to New Mexico to stay. New Spain's frontier had slowly advanced with the discovery of silver in northern Mexico. In 1581, explorers began prospecting for silver in the land of the Pueblos. Their failures foreshadowed a truth that determined much of Spanish New Mexico's history: that province held neither golden cities nor ready riches. But the fact that settlers could farm and herd there focused the joint strategies of Cross and Crown: Pueblo Indians could be converted and their lands colonized.

Don Juan de Oñate was first to pursue this mixed objective, in 1598. Taking settlers, livestock, and 10 Franciscans he marched north to claim for Spain the land across the Rio Grande. Right away he assigned a friar to the pueblo the Spanish would call Pecos, the richest and most powerful in New Mexico. The new religion got off to a shaky start. After episodes of idol-smashing provoked Indian resentment, the Franciscans sent veteran missionary Fray Andrés Juárez to Pecos in 1621 as healer and builder. Under his direction the Pecos built an adobe church south of the pueblo, the most imposing of New Mexico's mission churches-with towers, buttresses, and great pine-log beams hauled from the mountains. The ministry of Fray Juárez from 1621 to 1634 coincided with the most energetic mission period in New Mexico, now a royal colony. It was a Franciscan-led time of mission building and expansion. Its success bred conflict. Church and civil of­ficials vied for the Pueblo Indians' labor, tribute, and loyalty.

The Indians suffered these struggles through religious and economic repression. Decades of Spanish demands and Indian resentments culminated in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The Pueblos, including Pecos Pueblo, united to drive the Spaniards back to Mexico. At Pecos, those loyal to the Spanish and the padres warned the local priest but most followed a tribal elder in revolt. They killed the priest and destroyed the church. Twelve years later, led by Diego de Vargas, the Spaniards came back to their lost province, peacefully in some places but with the sword in others. De Vargas expected fighting at Pecos, but opinion had shifted.

Though there was still some division within the pueblo, some of the people accepted him and supplied 140 warriors to help retake Santa Fe. A smaller church built on the remains of the church destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt was built by 1717. The Franciscans mod­erated their zeal. The practice of encomiendas (paying tribute) was abolished, but different forms of indentured servitude continued. As allies and traders, the Pecos became partners in a relaxed Spanish-Pueblo community.

By the 1780s, disease, Comanche raids, and migration reduced the population of Pecos to fewer than 300. Much of the good farmland was being used by encroaching cattle herds and new Hispanic Ranche, making agriculture increasingly difficult. Longstanding internal divisions-those loyal to the Church and things Spanish versus those who clung to the old ways-may have contributed to this once powerful city-state's decline. The function of Pecos as a trade center faded as the Spanish, now protected from the Comanches by treaties, established new towns east of the pueblo.

Pecos and the mission seemed almost ghostly when Santa Fe Trail trade began flowing past in 1821. The last survivors left the decaying pueblo and empty mission church in 1838 to join Towa-speaking relatives 80 miles west at Jémez pueblo, where their descendants still live today. Want to learn more? Return back to the History and Culture menu.

The Santa Fe Trail was a trade route between Missouri and New Mexico that passed close to Pecos Pueblo. At Pecos National Historical Park, present-day Highway 63 follows close to the old trail route. One interesting remnant of Santa Fe Trail history is the Trading Post, an old adobe building dating to the mid 1800s. It was originally one of several stage stops in the area, managed by Martin Kozlowski and his wife Elena. During the Civil War Battle of Glorieta Pass, trading posts along the Santa Fe Trail were used by both Union and Confederate troops as encampments, headquarters, and hospitals, and even as the backdrop for one of the most decisive battles of the war. You can still visit this building today. As the western territories gained independence from Spain and were eventually annexed from Mexico, the Santa Fe Trail became central to the story of expansion and development in the United States. Along the trail, trappers, traders, fortune seekers, adventurers, journalists, naturalists, and everyday travelers headed west into these new territories. This westward movement played an important role in the use, development, and eventual demise of the Santa Fe Trail.

Journeying on the Santa Fe Trail from Missouri to New Mexico was long and arduous, but profitable for early merchants and certainly not boring. There were many stops along the way: Boone’s Lick, Switzler Creek, Lost Spring, Point of Rocks to name a few. Here at Pecos National Historical Park, you can step back in time at Kozlowski’s Stage Stop and Trading Post, where weary travelers rested a day’s ride from Santa Fe and explored the remaining walls of the mission church and Pecos Pueblo. For more about this historical trade route, take a look at the National Park Service Santa Fe Trail page. For an excellent firsthand account of travel along the Santa Fe Trail, follow this link to Col. Henry Inman's Stories of the Old Santa Fe Trail , first published in 1881. Want to learn more? Return back to the History Timeline .

Although many associate the Civil War with eastern battlefields like Antietam or the Wilderness, the fight over slavery in the United States extended much further west. In March of 1862, the war brought a battle to Glorieta Pass. Some refer to the battle as the Gettysburg of the West due to its overall significance to the war. The Confederates campaigned to take control of the West, which would have greatly improved their chances of success. However, in just three days of tough fighting, the Union Army ruined the Confederate plans and sent them retreating back southwards.

Starting in Texas, the Confederate Army planned to move north into the New Mexico Territory. They hoped to make their way toward the Colorado gold mining camps and eventually travel west to the coast to take seaports at Los Angeles and San Diego. To take Colorado and continue the campaign, the Confederates needed to take Fort Union, a supply center for Federal forces across the territory and beyond. As the Confederates continued north from Albuquerque, they divided their forces. Some made their way towards Santa Fe and others to the Galisteo area. Meanwhile, the rest of their troops raided the villages and countryside for much needed supplies. A group of about 400 soldiers traveled east along the Santa Fe Trail in the direction of Glorieta Pass. Simultaneously, a Union force of 400 soldiers waited for them on the other side of the pass. These forces would start the Battle of Glorieta Pass.

The Battle of Glorieta Pass took place during the winter months of the year. At an elevation above 7,000 feet, hilly, rocky, and covered with forest, both sides dealt with cold, snow, altitude, and enclosed terrain. The conflict began on March 26, 1862 when the Union forces encountered the Confederates coming up the Santa Fe Trail. The Union troops forced the Confederates back to their camp at Johnson’s Ranch, taking scores of prisoners. Expecting more fighting to come, both sides sent for reinforcements. On March 27, 1862, each side waited for more reinforcements, which arrived that night. No fighting took place on this day.

The heart of the battle occurred within a two-mile stretch of the Santa Fe Trail. The most important force, however, bypassed this area. About 500 Union soldiers made their way up Glorieta Mesa in the morning. Their instructions were to work their way around and attack the Confederates from the rear. After several hours of marching across the mesa, they discovered the Confederate supply train at Johnson’s Ranch. Climbing down the steep mesa, they destroyed the camp, burned all Confederate wagons, and ran off or killed the horses and mules. Meanwhile, the majority of both forces fought in a fierce battle at Glorieta Pass near Pigeon’s Ranch that lasted from late morning to near dark. The Confederates pushed the Union forces from the high ground and drove them east down the Santa Fe Trail. Even though they controlled the battlefield, the Confederates failed to break through, destroy the Union troops, or take any additional supplies from the Federals.

There were about 375 casualties over the three days of fighting. The Federals proved to be victorious because they were able to destroy all Confederate supplies. All other Confederate attempts to attack Fort Union proved fruitless and they slowly withdrew from the territory. The Union retained control the American Southwest for the rest of the Civil War. Want to learn more? Return back to the History Timeline .

Whether you only have a short time or a few hours to explore this history in person, there are options for you at Pecos NHP. Use these links to find out what to look for alongside Highway 50 , how to hike the battlefield, and when ranger programs are offered.

For hundreds of years the land along the Pecos River nourished and served the needs of the inhabitants and settlers of the region. The Forked Lightning Ranch, which is part of Pecos National Historical Park, is an important part of that story.

After the arrival of the Spanish in 1598, the area that now includes Pecos National Historical Park became part of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, and later a territory of the Republic of Mexico. When the Republic of Texas seceded from Mexico in 1836, it claimed the territory in an unratified treaty. The United States therefore also claimed the area in 1845 when the United States annexed the Republic of Texas. The area was not fomally acquired until the Treaty of Guadalupe Hildalgo in 1848.

During the nineteenth century, as Pecos Pueblo declined in population, settlers from Mexico and the United States began to occupy the lands along the Pecos River. The settlers often claimed land without regard to the formalities of deeds or land titles. Among these was a Polish immigrant named Martin Kozlowski. In 1858, he built a trading post and way station alongside the Santa Fe Trail just two miles from Pecos Pueblo. There are unconfirmed stories that he used timbers from the Pecos Mission Church in the construction of the building.

During the Civil War, the Union Army used Kozlowski's Trading Post as a headquarters during the Battle of Glorieta Pass and as a hospital for soldiers wounded in the battle. The property remained in the Kozlowski family until the 1920s.

In 1925, a colorful entrepreneur purchased parcels of land along the river, including Kozlowski's Trading Post. He took the name of Tex Austin and created the Forked Lightning Ranch. He used the Trading Post as the Ranch headquarters and hired architect John Gaw Meem to design and build a ranch house on the bluff overlooking the confluence of the Pecos River and Glorieta Creek. Meem, who later became a renowned Southwestern architect, designed the house in Pueblo Revival Style, with rooms surrounding a central patio. At Austin's request, Meem designed an ornamental head of a longhorn steer for the living room, but when the head proved too large for the interior space, it was relocated to the front of the building, where it continues to grace the entrance to the ranch house.

Austin, who became a well-known international promoter of rodeos, operated the Forked Lightning Ranch as an upscale dude ranch and resort. He advertised the ranch house as "modern in every detail," with "every room open on both sides." "Each room has electric lights, modern heating and plumbing, and between each two bedrooms is a bathroom with running hot and cold water." The rooms included "box mattress beds as well as all other conveniences anyone would wish in a well-appointed house."

The ranch offered guests "food, lodging, saddle horses, guides, instructor (if needed), use of polo practice field, horseback picnic trips, motor trips to Santa Fe, the Indian pueblos, or any and all points of interest within 50 or 75 miles of the ranch." Riding outfits, hats, boots, and equipment could be purchased at the Trading Post and Ranch Store.

But not just anybody could enjoy Forked Lightning Ranch. The Ranch's guest list included such natoable figures of the time as Col. and Mrs. Charles Lindbergh and Will Rogers, and brochures cautioned that "[t]he accommodations... are for the recreation of healthy people and no health seekers will be received." Another brochure announced that "[t]here are accommodations for only a very limited number of guests and no one will be received without references."

Austin operated the property as a resort for only seven years; the last guest departed in 1933. Shortly thereafter, the property was sold and Austin moved to Santa Fe, where he operated a restaurant for several years until his death. The ranch remained in private hands for several years, with the owners residing in the old Kozlowski Trading Post and the ranch house standing empty.

In 1941, the Forked Lightning Ranch was purchased by Col. Elijah Edwin "Buddy" Fogelson, a Texas oilman and rancher. Originally comprising 5,500 acres, Fogelson eventually expanded it to about 18,000 acres. He used the ranch house as his residence and the Kozlowski Trading Post as quarters for the ranch foreman. In 1949 Fogelson married Hollywood actress Greer Garson, and the couple used the property as their part-time residence for the rest of their lives.

Forked Lightning operated as a working ranch, at first raising Hereford cattle. In 1950, Greer Garson Fogelson imported a small herd of white Shorthorn cattle from Scotland, but they proved unable to withstand the climate. In 1958 Buddy Fogelson purchased a registered Santa Gertrudis bull named "Gee-Gee" and three heifers. The Santa Gertrudis breed, about 3/8 Brahmin and 5/8 Shorthorn, was originally developed on the King Ranch in Texas and is known for its ability to endure harsh climates. The Santa Gertrudis thrived at Forked Lightning Ranch and won prizes at the New Mexico State Fair. During the 1960s, the Fogelsons determined that polled (hornless) stock would be more popular among feedlot operators, and began raising and breeding a strain of polled Santa Gertrudis cattle.

In addition to serving as a working cattle ranch, Forked Lightning was a social center for entertaining the rich and famous. Lavish parties included chuckwagon picnic lunches on the banks of the Pecos River or evening fiesta buffets on the patio, hunt breakfasts, and afternoon teas. The Fogelsons constructed a skeet shooting range above the ranch house in the 1950s. Hollywood celebrities, politicians, artists, and philanthropists visited the ranch, including Art Linkletter, Merle Oberon, Vincent Minnelli, David O. Selznick, Winthrop Rockefeller, and Georgia O'Keeffe.

Greer Garson Fogelson last visited the Ranch in 1990. Although some original furnishings and items remain in the ranch house, many of the ranch's furnishings were sold at auction, including photos of celebrities, original artwork, santos, Navajo blankets, hand-crafted furniture, baskets, lamps, Buddy's gun collection, and a set of "his and hers" saddles.

Today, the park offers occasional tours of the Ranch House and Kozlowski's Trading Post. Want to learn more? Return back to the History Timeline .

Introduction Alfred Vincent Kidder (1885 - 1963) ("Ted" to his friends) was one of the foremost archaeologists of the twentieth century, and much of his groundbreaking work was done at Pecos. Over the course of fifteen years, from 1914 to 1929, he excavated the ruins at Pecos, introduced the concept of stratigraphy to Southwestern archaeology, tutored a generation of young archaeologists, and helped develop a classification system to distinguish the different cultural periods in the prehistoric history of the region. Early Years Kidder seemed destined for a career in medicine until, during his junior year at Harvard in 1907, he spotted a notice in the school newspaper, seeking volunteers to work with famed archaeologist Edgar Lee Hewett in the Southwest. His work that summer in the area around Four Corners inspired him to pursue a lifelong career in Southwestern and Mayan archaeology. At Harvard, Kidder studied under some of the well-known classical archaeologists of the day. They introduced Kidder to stratigraphy, the concept that by excavating carefully in layers and cataloguing which artifacts lay closer to the surface and therefore were of more recent origin, one could establish a chronology of artifacts and cultural information.

As part of your visit to the park you may see the historic preservation crew at work on the church or convento. The preservation of America's heritage such as these buildings is both mandated by the National Historic Preservation Act of 1966 and a crucial piece of the National Park Service's mission to preserve unimpaired "the natural and cultural resources and values of the national park system for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations."

Also referred to as Heritage Conservation, historic preservation is a process of determining places and objects important to our nation's history and protecting them in perpetuity. The pueblos, church, and convento at Pecos National Historical Park are listed on the National Register of Historic Places .

Preservation treatments take a variety of forms. At Pecos, the goal of preservation activities is to stabilize and repair the existing buildings to reflect the history of the site appropriately. The intention is not to reconstruct, or build anew what once existed, but rather to preserve what is already there.

At Pecos, treatment efforts have been ongoing since the early 1900s. Starting in 1915, archeologists Alfred Kidder and Jesse Nusbaum removed accumulated debris from the church interior. Over the next several years, Nusbaum and a team of workmen rebuilt portions of the church based on locations of architectural features they identified, such as doors and windows.

The philosophy of historic preservation has since changed. Rather than reconstruct fallen parts of the building, recent preservationists have been faced with the challenge of how best to shelter what remains of the original church and convento walls. In addition, any work more than 50 years old, including that of Nusbaum, is now considered historic in its own right and must be taken into account when planning preservation treatments.

The treatment you see on the walls of the Pecos church is called encapsulation. The fragile original adobe bricks have been encased with new adobes made here at Pecos. This encapsulation method protects the historic adobes (now inside the wall) that would otherwise weather away.

One activity you are likely to see is the making or use of adobe bricks for preservation treatments at the church and the convento, which is the large complex of rooms south of the church that served as a monastery. Adobe is a traditional earthen building material that has been employed for thousands of years. The origin of the word can be traced to ancient Egyptian; from there it was adopted into Arabic and then Spanish.

Adobe architecture can be found around the world in areas with suitably dry climates. Types of earthen construction were previously used in the Southwest, but adobe brick technology was brought to this region during the Spanish Colonial period and remains in use today. Adobe bricks are composed of soil mixed with water to form mud. Clay in the soil acts as the binder. However, clays expand with the presence of water, then contract as they dry. This causes cracking to occur, which is not desirable in building materials. The presence of sand helps to minimize cracking. Straw can also be added to reduce cracking while increasing strength. The mixed mud is put into rectangular wooden forms to make bricks . The bricks dry in the sun for several weeks and have to be turned periodically so that they cure evenly.

While this building material is durable in New Mexico's climate, the adobes last longer when protected from the elements with a coat of mud plaster. Made from the same mud mix as adobe bricks, the plaster will take the brunt of the weather, much like the siding on your house. Historically this is how the building walls were treated at Pecos.

The Trading Post Built as a stage stop along the Santa Fe Trail in the 1850s, the Trading Post serves as an information center and museum for visitors interested in learning more about the Santa Fe Trail, Civil War, and ranching in New Mexico.

You can delve into all this history and more by exploring the exhibits at the Trading Post, and don’t forget to get your Trading Post NPS Passport stamp. Come and immerse yourself in the rich history of Pecos NHP at the Trading Post! The Trading Post grounds are typically open from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm, and the exhibits inside are open as staffing allows. Contact the visitor center at 505-757-7241 for more information.

The Battle of Glorieta Pass occurred during the American Civil War in 1862. Confederate troops invaded New Mexico in a bid to control the resources of the West. This pivotal battle was a turning point. There are multiple ways to experience this historic place.

For a drive-through visit, drive Highway 50 between the village of Pecos and the Pecos/Glorieta I-25 exit. Park and read the stone monuments to the volunteers who fought in this conflict. Keep an eye out for the adobe remains of Pigeon’s Ranch as you drive by. This old Santa Fe Trail stop was the site of the largest conflict during the battle. (Note: Pigeon’s Ranch is not currently developed for visitor use).

For a historic walk (up to 2.25 miles round trip) on the battlefield, please see our hiking page. The battlefield trail is open from 8:00 am – 4:30 pm daily.

Built by Tex Austin in 1926, this Pueblo Revival Style building was one of the first designed by architect John Gaw Meem. He later worked on hundreds of buildings in this iconic style throughout New Mexico (and beyond). Tex Austin ran the Forked Lightning Ranch as an upscale dude ranch until the Great Depression put him out of business. Later, oil tycoon E.E. Fogelson and his actress wife Greer Garson used the ranch for gatherings, relaxation, and raising prize-winning cattle and horses. Read more about their stories here . The Forked Lightning Ranch House is currently only open during regular ranger-led programs, typically several times each week. See the Pecos NHP calendar to see when the next one will be held.

For several years in the 1920s and '30s a colorful but enigmatic character known as Tex Austin owned and operated the Forked Lightning Ranch. Austin's early years are shrouded in mystery. Almost certainly, he was born in Missouri in 1889 as Clarence Van Norstrand. At some point he changed his name to "Tex Austin" and claimed that he was born in Texas and had fought with revolutionaries in the Mexican Revolution. Whatever the uncertainties about his early years, we know that he purchased the 5,500-acre Forked Lightning Ranch along the Pecos River in 1925.

Austin adopted a flashy and distinctive personality for himself. Shortly after he arrived in New Mexico, The Santa Fe New Mexican newspaper described him as "a great big chap - considerably over six feet tall, straight as an arrow, and of striking appearance," wearing a solid gold steer's-head stickpin "the size of a twenty dollar gold piece."

By the time he acquired the Forked Lightning Ranch , Austin was already a well-known promoter of rodeos in the United States and abroad. In 1918 he produced what may have been the first indoor rodeo, in Wichita Kansas, followed by successful rodeos in New York in 1922, London in 1924, and annually in Chicago from 1925 to 1929.

At the height of its popularity in 1927, the event attracted 350,000 visitors to Chicago's Soldier Field over a nine-day run. By the end of the 1920s, however, interest in rodeos had declined, and the 1929 event was held at a smaller arena to smaller crowds. By 1934, public reception was cool and Austin's London rodeo that year resulted in a financial loss.

Then, as now, rodeos were controversial. In 1924 the Royal Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals obtained a court order prohibiting the shows, which was lifted after Austin assured the authorities that calf-roping and other objectionable events would be eliminated. Anti-rodeo activists also protested the 1934 London rodeo, which led to the "Protection of Animals Act of 1934" in England prohibiting some rodeo events.

With the development of the National Park system and the arrival of railroads, the industry of Western tourism flourished during the 1920s and 30s. Businesses like the Fred Harvey Company advertised the attractions of vacations in the Southwest and "dude ranches" provided a way for visitors to experience first-hand the activities of a working ranch.

Taking advantage of the interest in Western tourism, Tex Austin opened the Forked Lightning Ranch to visitors. On a bluff overlooking the Pecos River and Glorieta Creek he constructed a ranch house for guests, which he described as "modern in every detail" with a "vista of indescribable beauty."

The ranch offered its guests a full range of activities: "Riding parties, picnics, a set of tennis, a round of golf, a game of croquet, horseshoes, or ping pong can be arranged at a moment's notice." Motor trips to nearby attractions were available, "several strings of polo ponies" were in residence, and "each guest is dealt a private horse and that horse is available day or night."

Forked Lightning catered to wealthy visitors from the Midwest and East, and its guest list included the social elite and captains of industry of the time. The resort was heavily mortgaged, however, and operated for only seven years before falling victim to the Great Depression. The last visitor left in 1933 and the ranch was placed into court receivership.

In 1935 Forked Lightning was sold and Austin moved to Santa Fe, where he opened "Tex Austin's Los Rancheros Restaurant" near the Plaza. The restaurant offered cowboy fare, dancing, a full bar, and thick steaks - none of those "thin, long steaks with all that musical comedy sauce on it," Austin bragged. For the next few years it was a center for parties, social events, and celebrations.

Austin's restaurant effort also proved to be short-lived, however. In October 1938, Austin took his own life, dying by asphyxiation in his car in his garage, leaving memorabilia of his rodeo days and a note asking his wife for "forgiveness." Newspapers reported that at the time of his death he was negotiating to produce another rodeo at the upcoming 1939 New York World's Fair.

In 1976, Tex Austin was named to the Rodeo Hall of Fame of the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City, as one of "rodeo's greatest legends."

Several years after the dude ranch closed, Forked Lightning was purchased by Texas oilman E. E. Fogelson and became the part-time residence of Fogelson and his wife, Hollywood star Greer Garson. In 1991 the ranch became part of Pecos National Historical Park. The story of Tex Austin and his version of the Forked Lightning Ranch reflects the America of that era: full of individualism, idealism, and consumerism. The Tex Austin era of Forked Lightning Ranch is now a brief interlude in the long and diverse history of the Pecos Valley and the settlement of the American West. Want to learn more? Return back to the History Timeline .

In 2017 Dr. Ken and Susan Bower (Naturalists) under the direction of Dr. Kristen L. Whitbeck (Park Ecologist), began a project to determine which plants were growing along the Ancestral Sites Trail and record their blooming cycles. Plants were noted each week throughout the blooming season from mid-March until the end of October. A detailed record of each plant was maintained denoting the common and scientific name of each plant; whether or not it is native to the U.S.; photos of the plant, flowers and fruit or seeds (if applicable); the location of the plant; its distribution; a description of the plant; any ethnobotanical uses; and a table of internet resources for finding more information each the plant. A total of 105 different plants were identified when they flowered. Four more plants were identified, but did not or were not allowed to bloom for a total of 109. Ken and Susan now maintain a detailed website complete with maps, images, and ethnobotanical uses of all the plants they documened during their study at the park.

Past and present geological processes shaped the upper Pecos River Valley and its abundance of natural resources. In addition, the valley has been a significant migration corridor for people traveling the southern terminus of the Rocky Mountains, connecting the Great Plains with the Rio Grande Valley. Over 700 years ago, Pueblo people settled on a ridge in the middle of the valley that was surrounded by water sources, farmable land and building materials.

Three geologic provinces, which are regions with similar attributes, strongly influenced the creation of the Upper Pecos Valley: the Southern Rocky Mountains, Great Plains, and Basin & Range (which includes the Rio Grande Rift and River). Throughout history, people and animals migrated through and lived in the resource-rich valley.

Prior to the current Sangre de Cristo and Southern Rocky Mountains, there were Ancestral Rocky Mountains. These earlier mountains formed approximately 300 million years ago during the Late Pennsylvanian and Early Permian geologic periods at the time of the super continent called Pangea. Following uplift of the Ancestral Rockies, erosional processes gave way to alluvial fans, deserts, river deltas, beaches and shallow seas, evidence of which can be seen in the rock layers of Glorieta Mesa. Eventually the Ancestral Rocky Mountains eroded completely and a shallow continental sea took their place during the Late Cretaceous geologic period (85 million years ago).

Brief descriptions of Glorieta Mesa stratigraphy (rock layers, top to bottom, youngest to oldest):

Santa Rosa Formation: Sandstone and conglomeratic river deposits with petrified wood

Bernal Formation: Fine silt, salt and gypsum desert deposits (underlain by a thin interval of San Andres Limestone which was a warm shallow sea and is filled with fossils)

Glorieta Sandstone: Well sorted and well cemented shallow marine and beach sand deposits

Yeso Formation: Fine grained sands, silts and muds deposited further from mountains in an arid environment

Sangre de Cristo Formation: Coarse grained arkosic (detrital) sandstone with large pink (feldspar) and white (quartz) rock fragments that indicate river and fan deposition near the parent rock source (mountains)

The Sangre de Cristo and Rocky Mountains you see today formed 70-40 million years ago during the Laramide Orogeny which was the last major period of mountain building in the interior western US. Glorieta Mesa is a transitional feature between the Southern Rocky Mountains and the Great Plains and was uplifted about 10 million years ago during the Miocene geologic period. The modern Pecos Canyon and River formed as a result of melting alpine glaciers high in the mountains during the Pleistocene Ice Age, 700,000 to 12,000 years ago. Erosion from the river and creeks greatly influenced the shapes of the valley and mesa you see today.

The Pecos people primarily constructed their dwellings using rocks from the Sangre de Cristo Formation that were found on the valley floor. This same sandstone forms the rock wall in front of the park’s visitor center. Initial erosion of the Ancestral Rockies, 290 million years ago, formed poorly sorted and coarse-grained sandstones of the Sangre de Cristo Formation. Visible red angular rock fragments indicate the river deposits were very near the mountains.

As you drive New Mexico State Highway 50 between Interstate-25 exit #299 and the Village of Pecos, Sangre de Cristo Sandstone outcrops can be seen along the road. The many small ravines and ridges that formed the eroded sandstone served as the backdrop during the 3-day battle of Glorieta Pass. Sharpshooter’s Ridge, located in the park’s Glorieta Unit, is the most famous sandstone bluff used during the battle.

The Upper Pecos Valley is a critical route through the southernmost Rocky Mountains where people inhabited the land for thousands of years. The multiple ecosystems, defined by topography and climate, surrounding Pecos National Historical Park provide a suitable and sustainable environment for civilization to prosper. People of Pecos Pueblo had easy access to prominent lookouts, building materials, water, soils, and tool-making stones which led to a complex and resilient culture.

Hikers walking along the Ancestral Sites Trail NPS Photo Hiking Smart If you plan on hiking any park trails, please remember to put safety first! Following the five steps below can ensure you stay happy and safe as you hike! Stay Hydrated—water or electrolytes Carry Food—salty foods especially Wear Appropriate Clothing In hot weather: hats, lightweight sun-protective clothing In cold weather: jackets, gloves, hats Anytime: good shoes and rain jackets/ponchos just in case Carry a First Aid Kit Wear Sunscreen Good to Know Please note that bicycles are not permitted on any park trails. Pets on leash are welcome on two of the three trails. Please see below.

Hiking Trails in Pecos National Historical Park Ancestral Sites Trail 1.25 mile/2 km roundtrip loop Difficulty: Easy (gravel/dirt) Elevation Change: 80 ft/23 m The trail starts right behind the visitor center. It gives you a glimpse into the past as you pass by the ancestral sites of the Pecos Pueblo and the mission church. You will also enjoy beautiful vistas of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and Glorieta Mesa as you venture around the trail. Dogs are allowed on leash. Trail guides are available to purchase at the visitor center. Visit our accessibility page to learn about trail accessibility. Glorieta Battlefield Trail 2.25 mile/3.6 km roundtrip loop Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous (unpaved/gravel) Elevation Change: 500 ft/152 m

To reach the Glorieta Battlefield Trail, drive 2.1 miles south from the main park gate and turn right on Old Denver Highway (unsigned). Continue 5.5 miles northwest, including a short gravel section. Road ends at the parking for the trailhead. Visit our accessibility page to learn about trail accessibility. Trail hours are 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. South Pasture Loop Trail 3.8 mile/6.12 km roundtrip loop Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (gravel/dirt) Elevation Change: 100 ft/30 m

To reach the trail, drive 0.75 miles south on Highway 63 from the main park gate. Turn left toward the Trading Post. Continue another 0.7 miles south on a gravel road to arrive at a blue gate marking the trailhead parking. Important Notices: Pets are not permitted on this trail. Last entry onto this trail is at 1:00 pm, as the trail closes at 3:00 each day. Looking for more things to do? Check out the Things to Do page for other ways to experience the park!

2.25 mile/3.6 km roundtrip loop Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous (unpaved/gravel) Elevation Change: 500 ft/152 m The trailhead is a 7.5 mile drive from the visitor center. Winding through a forested area, this trail explores the place where one of the most important western Civil War battles happened. Stop by the visitor center first for printed information about the battle. As you walk around the trail, you will see wayside signs about the conflict. Some information is also available in the NPS App . Dogs are allowed on leash. To reach the Glorieta Battlefield Trail, drive 2.1 miles south from the main park gate and turn right on Old Denver Highway (unsigned). Continue 5.5 miles northwest, including a short gravel section. Road ends at the parking for the trailhead. Visit our accessibility page to learn about trail accessibility. Trail hours are 8:00 am to 4:30 pm.

3.8 mile/6.12 km roundtrip loop Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (gravel/dirt) Elevation Change: 100 ft/30 m This old ranching road-turned-trail starts 0.7 miles south of the Trading Post and winds its way through pasture lands. As you hike along the trail, you'll pass through a grove of cottonwoods along the Pecos River. The trail then loops back through pasture lands before ending back at the trailhead. This trail has expansive views of the Pecos River, Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and Glorieta Mesa. To reach the trail, drive 0.75 miles south on Highway 63 from the main park gate. Turn left toward the Trading Post. Continue another 0.7 miles south on a gravel road to arrive at a blue gate marking the trailhead parking. Important Notices: Pets are not permitted on this trail. Last entry onto this trail is at 1:00 pm, as the trail closes at 3:00 each day.