Ozark National Scenic Riverways ⓘ

"An honest man is the noblest work of God" reads a tombstone in the Alley Cemetery. Cemeteries have much to teach us about the values and lives of those who went before us. Ozark Riverways is dotted with cemeteries, some just family plots of one or two graves, others large affairs where villages and hamlets once were.

A wonderful way to imagine the past is to wander through a graveyard while letting your imagination wander through the mists of time. Mary Lynch was the "sunshine of our home," while another stone tells us that T.M. Ellis' "last rational act was reading 15 Chapter of 1st Corinthians." What are the stories of these early Ozarkers' lives? Some we know from the memories of elder residents, others from old newspapers and books, some we guess about from the tombstones and most we just don't know.

The original Alley Cemetery is located near Horse Camp. Follow the dirt road off of State Route 106 (about 3 miles east of Alley) and turn right at the first intersection. The cemetery is about another mile, on your left. This is the cemetery where John Alley is buried, the man Alley Spring is named after. At one time, a tornado struck the cemetery, scattering the tombstones. Local residents returned the tombstones as best they could to where they belonged. When Senator Danny Staples was a boy, he remembers helping to dig graves there and finding bones already in the spot they had chosen. The cemetery is now considered full.

Frank Bell is laid to rest in Alley Cemetery. He was a bachelor with a long white beard and everyone called him Uncle Frank. He had gone to California with hopes of finding gold. No one knows if he did or not, but he always seemed to have money. People would go to his cabin to borrow money and he would say "Well, I don't have it today, but if you come back tomorrow I will." When they came back, Frank would have the money. He did not have a bank account and apparently never left his home. After he died, the family that inherited the house searched for the hidden cache. They never told anyone if they had found it or not.

Anna Boyd, age six, and Grace Crider and Cora Birge, both seven, died in a Diphtheria outbreak in 1911. Times were hard on the Ozarks frontier, sanitation was poor, nutrition was often poor and many children died in childhood. Any walk through a cemetery will show tombstones of infants and small children. Imagine for a moment the scene as a family gathers round and lays a beloved child to rest, each person adding the traditional handful of dirt to the grave. A poignant reminder of the benefits of modern life.

The stories are carved in stone and in the memories of community elders. Take a quiet respectful walk through any of the many cemeteries around the area. Ponder their stories and the story you too will one day leave behind.

by Mary Ficker, Park Ranger Visitors to the Ozark National Scenic Riverways often come to do more than just float the rivers. Many come to watch the birds. Experienced birders know that the Riverways is home to many canebrakes where they may catch a glimpse of a rare Swainson’s warbler. Late fall migration brings the mighty bald eagles to winter along our unfrozen rivers. Many species of birds are found in the Ozarks during the spring and fall migrations. Many are just passing through, but many others call the Ozarks home year round. The birds you see will depend on where you look.

If you float the river you may see wood ducks in quiet pools. Many floaters are treated to a scolding by the belted kingfisher, a medium sized bird with blue feathers and a white breast. Its unruly top knot looks like hair badly styled with mousse! Likewise, it’s hard to miss the great blue heron flying down the river ahead of you each time you approach its fishing or resting spot. Other, less well known herons call the rivers home as well. You may see little blue herons, which are much smaller than the great blues. Or perhaps a green backed heron, which is a small brown and green heron. A very observant ( and lucky) birder may even see the elusive American bittern or the nocturnal yellow crowned night heron in backwaters and sloughs.

Floaters often are treated to the cry of hawks. The most common in our area are the large red tailed and somewhat smaller red shouldered hawk. The red tail is usually seen soaring high above, often keeping company with the black and turkey vultures. Other hawks you may see include the pigeon sized kestrel and the rare peregrine falcon. The osprey or fish hawk may also be seen, diving into the water to scoop up a juicy trout.

Evening brings out the swallows to feed on flying insects just above the water. Few riverside campouts would be complete without the nighttime serenade of the whip-poor-will or the mournful wail of the little screech owl. Perhaps this will be accompanied by the familiar “who cooks for you” of a barred owl. The river itself plays a fluid melody in the background while tree frogs join the chorus. Nature and her peaceful sounds lull tired floaters to sleep. With dawn comes the cooing of mourning doves and the tap tap of a woodpecker on a hollow tree.

Away from the water’s edge, birders will find other habitats and different birds. In open fields you might see and hear the bob white quail. This is also home to the handsome brown and yellow meadowlark, recognized by the black “V” on its bright yellow breast. A flock of goldfinches may light up a tree with their brilliant breeding colors of yellow and black. At the edge of the forest you may see regal looking cedar waxwings with their fawn colored bodies and feather tips that look like they were dipped in sealing wax. A streak of blue may reveal an eastern bluebird or the smaller indigo bunting. An abundant variety of sparrows and warblers, too numerous to mention each by name will challenge both experienced and novice birdwatchers.

What do you need to take up birdwatching? Not much, just good eyes. It helps to have a good guide book with pictures to help you identify the birds you see. Also useful, but not necessary, is a pair of binoculars. Birds can be identified by prominent features called “field marks.” Noting a few prominent ones will help you identify the bird with your field guide. Take the time to look closely and note the following details:

Size: Robin sized, pigeon sized, chicken sized? Beak: Long, short, thin, thick, pointed, hooked? What color? Tail shape: pointed, rounded, notched, forked, fan shaped? Colors: back and breast colors, solid, striped, speckled, wing bars, eye stripes? Behavior: does it fly in a certain pattern? What does it sound like? Does it stay on the ground? Does it soar or flap constantly? Is it a loner or does it stay with a flock?

If you take the time to make mental notes of some of these characteristics, you shouldn’t be confused by similar birds in your book. Some species are told apart only on the basis of the number or color of the wing bars.

Wildland fire in the Ozark National Scenic Riverways is both a fascinating and exciting phenomenon. For many years the National Park Service has played an active role in suppression, but this is not the only duties fire personnel carry out. Apart from suppressing wildland fires, setting and monitoring controlled burns, or prescribed fires, is an essential part of fire activities in the Riverways. The National Park Service uses prescribed fires to reap the benefits of fire without threatening valuable forestland with catastrophic wildfire. These prescribed burns prove beneficial to several types of plants and animals found in the Riverways. The burns can help germinate seeds of the shortleaf pine, the only pine native to Missouri. They also cause native butterfly populations to flourish, while improving hunting and habitat areas of larger predators such as the coyote. Another very important benefit of prescribed burns is that of fuel reduction. By reducing the amount of thick, heavy, and dead underbrush, the Park Service can reduce the threat of large, dangerous wildfires at a later date. Conveniently, the prescribed burning season in this part of the country occurs during the spring months, the summer months are free for fire personnel to assist in fighting wildfires in the western United States. Whether fighting fires, or setting controlled fires, fire personnel working in the Ozark National Scenic Riverways play a key role in keeping our parks safe and smoke-free for ourselves, our visitors and future generations.

Bears are rare, but sightings increase each year. To date there have been no bear - human conflicts. There are consistent reports of mountain lions or cougars (locally called "panthers") in the area. The sightings are believed to be legitimate but it is not known if the animals are escaped pets or if they are a wild population, possibly spreading from Texas. Small mammals such as mice, chipmunks and squirrels play an important part in forest ecosystems. They speed decomposition, aerate the soil and provide food for larger predators such as bobcats, coyotes, and birds of prey.

Otters, mink, beaver and muskrat are all found in park waters. These furbearers may be trapped in season. Otters were re-introduced by the Missouri department of Conservation and are re-establishing themselves as aquatic predators.

The park's many caves provide hibernation places for many bat species. The park is considered to be one of the last centers of abundance for the endangered grey bat. Unlike most bats, the grey bat and the Indiana bat raise their young in caves during the summer. Bats across America are being threatened by a disease called White Nose Syndrome. To protect bats from disturbance during this perilous time, all caves in the park, except Round Spring and Devils Well, are closed.

To reserve a backcountry campsite, please visit the Backcountry page linked below and click the blue "Reservation" button under the Reservations section.

You can also make a reservation by calling Recreation.gov at (877) 444-6777 . However, please let the reserve agent know you are looking to reserve a backcountry campsite and which section you are interested in booking,( i.e.) Upper/Middle/Jacks Fork or Lower Current.

All campsites in the park require a reservation. Reservations can be made by visiting recreation.gov or calling (877) 444-6777

All developed and backcountry campsites require a reservation. Reservations can be made through recreation.gov - visit their website or call (877) 444-6777 for booking! Sites can be booked up to 6 months in advance.

Note: Interagency passes (used for camping discounts) cannot be purchased in the park. Please visit the National Park Service passes page for purchasing options.

Ozark National Scenic Riverways offers a variety of camping options, from classic campgrounds to riverside excursions. Click the links below for information on each!

Developed campgrounds offer the most amenities of any park camping option. Look here for showers, electric sites, camp stores, and more!

If you crave a camping experience that is off the beaten path, these are the sites for you! Backcountry campgrounds offer basic amenities.

These free sites offer no amenities, making for a truly rustic experience. If you enjoy remote, secluded camping - look no further!

Help us keep the park clean and safe by learning about camping rules and regulations!

(573) 323-4236 Call (573) 323-4236 for Big Spring Entrance Station, located south of Van Buren, MO. Call (573) 226-3945 for the Alley Spring General Store, located west of Eminence, MO. Call (573) 858-3297 for Round Spring Ranger Station, located north of Eminence, MO.

Hiking in the Ozarks is most popular in fall. Visitors can enjoy cooler weather, peaceful trails, and beautiful colors. NPS Photo

The hills and hollows of the Ozarks invite hikers from across the nation. They are renown for their beautiful fall colors, intriguing landscapes, and remote nature. There are few trails on earth that offer the same amount of peace, quiet, and intimacy with nature.

There are a variety of trails along the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers. They are maintained by the park or volunteers, like the Ozark Trail Association . In addition, all dirt roads and old traces are open to hiking. Except for occasional horseback riders, there is not much traffic in the Ozarks. A few common sense guidelines will make for a relaxing, enjoyable trip through the mountains of Missouri.

First, check out the National Park Service page on hiking essentials . That article covers general guidelines for hiking in the parks. For park-specific topics, click on the tabs below for more information:

Most hiking injuries are caused by off-trail hazards. To avoid exposure to pests, harmful plants, or dangerous terrain, please stay on the trail at all times. Many trails also leave the park and cross private or state lands. Respect the landowners in each area by staying on the designated path.

Pets are welcome on almost all trails apart from horse trails. Most dogs love hiking through the hills of the Ozarks. However, extra precaution is needed to protect both pets and wildlife.

Dogs must remain on a 6-foot leash, even when the area seems empty. There are often unseen threats to your pet's health and safety:

Pets can easily become lost, exhausted, or injured, especially in an unfamiliar environment. Each year, thousands of pets go missing in parks. Without microchips or tags, there is an 85% chance that a lost dog will not be returned to its owner. With that statistic in mind, always keep your pet on a leash.

Ticks are abundant in spring, summer, and fall. They can be even be picked up during the winter months. As such, it's crucial to take the following measures:

Other pests, such as chiggers, are also present throughout the park. Follow the same tips above and stay on the trail to reduce your exposure risk.

Some venomous snakes are found in the area, but they are rarely a problem. Most snakebites occur when people try to catch, kill, or otherwise interact with a snake. If you see a snake, walk around their location in a wide circle and leave them alone.

Poison ivy and other harmful plants are spread throughout the region. As with the other hazards mentioned in this list, the best form of prevention is to wear long pants/sleeves and stay on the trail. There is nothing off the trail that is worth ruining your week/month.