Jewel Cave National Monument ⓘ

Even though Jewel Cave is thought to be over 60 million years old, our human history started less than 150 years ago. The discovery of Jewel Cave is credited to the Michaud brothers, Frank and Albert, who were gold prospectors in 1900. They enlarged the natural entrance of the cave and filed a mining claim to mine the crystals they had found. After the mining was unsuccessful, the Michauds turned towards tourism and began offering cave tours. There was a growing interest in land preservation which led to the proclamation of Jewel Cave as a National Monument by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1908. The cave was run by the Michauds and other locals until the late 1930s when the National Park Service started to give tours. Jewel Cave was only thought to be about 2 miles until 1959, when Herb and Jan Conn began exploring Jewel Cave with geologist Dwight Deal. The Conns caved from 1959-1981 and, in that time, they discovered over 65 cave miles. Herb and Jan were also responsible for mapping out the route for our current Scenic and Discovery Tours. It is thought that only 3-5% of Jewel Cave has been discovered and there could be another 5,000-7,000 miles left to explore. Ever since Herb and Jan sparked curiosity for the exploration of Jewel Cave, volunteer cave explorers have been drawn to continue what the Conns started. Expeditions go out about once a month to once every three months and can last up to 4 days. On average we discover about 3-6 miles of cave every year to add to our knowledge and mileage of the cave. Caves are considered one of the last frontiers left on earth.

Known for their ear tuffs, the Great Horned Owl is one of North America’s largest owls. Living across the entirety of the United States, they vary in color by geographic region. At the monument, they showcase a pale grayish color and the typical bright yellow eyes. Usually heard and not seen, you may hear their classic hoo hoo HOO hoo hoo.

Along with its gray back and white/tan underbelly, this small songbird was named for its distinctive black cap and white cheeks. Black-capped chickadees are commonly seen at the monument hopping between small tree branches and foraging for insects on the bark surface. Much like squirrels, these birds store seeds in several different locations and later return to them.

Commonly referred to as “upside down birds”, nuthatches display the unique behavior of moving up and down vertical surfaces headfirst. The white-breasted nuthatch is the largest nuthatch species at the monument and is characterized by a gray-blue back, white underbelly, and black cap (gray in females) that resembles a hood. This species can be found foraging up and down the pine trees at the monument.

Similar in appearance to the white-breasted nuthatch, this species is distinguished by a rust-colored underbelly. The red-breasted nuthatch additionally has a broad, black eye line with a white line directly above it. These birds may be seen collecting resin from ponderosa pines and plastering it around the entrance to their nesting holes.

Although they can be seen year-round in the Black Hills, the pine siskin only inhabits the remainder of South Dakota during the non-breeding season (fall or winter). Small, they have a sharp bill and notched tail. The brown body is streaked with yellow feathers, but the head remains brown. They are mostly seen in pine trees or foraging for seeds.

Known for their distinctly crossed bills, the crossbill is excellent at foraging conifer seeds. Found in trees, males and females differ in color. Adult males showcase a bright red body with hints of brown on their wings. In contrast, females have a yellow body with brown wings.

Similar in appearance to the downy woodpecker, the hairy woodpecker is larger in size with a longer bill used for excavating in trees. Males and females both have a white stripe down the middle of their back and rows of white spots on their wings. Males can be distinguished from females via the red patch on the back of their head.

A common backyard resident across most of North America, robins are a familiar sight to most visitors at Jewel Cave. These birds are distinguished by a dark back, a rusty orange breast, and a white throat with dark stripes. They are commonly seen running and hopping along the Roof Trail as well as around the outskirts of the parking lot at the monument.

In this section: Exotic Plant Management - Learn about the steps being taken to keep Jewel Cave National Monument in its natural state. Wildflowers - Learn about the different species of wildflowers that grow here and how to identify them. Jewel Cave National Monument encompasses 1,274 acres, which includes habitats of ponderosa pine forest and open meadows caused by the Jasper Fire in August 2000. The monument hosts a rich diversity of native plants that complement the herbarium of southwestern South Dakota, specifically the southern Black Hills (Custer County, South Dakota).

Established in 1908, the monument preserves and protects its ecosystem and geologic features for scientific study and public enjoyment. The dominant vegetation is ponderosa pine (with a variety of understory species), interspersed with multiple plants of the mixed-grass prairie. As noted, the Jasper Fire significantly altered the monument's vegetation by burning through a land area of about 83,500 acres. The wildland fire affected over 90% of the monument's surface landscape. Non-native invasive plant species have increased since the fire and are a major target of mechanical, biological, and chemical treatments. It is important to note that about one-third of the monument is designated as a no-herbicide zone to protect cave resources. Nonetheless, controlling the spread of invasive exotic species is one of the primary objectives of resource management at Jewel Cave.

The surface of Jewel Cave National Monument is home to a variety of mammals that you may be lucky enough to see. White-tailed deer, mule deer, chipmunks and red squirrels are often seen near the Visitor Center. Bighorn sheep, a conservation success story, were reintroduced to nearby Hell Canyon and are occasionally seen near Highway 16 within the monument boundaries. Rocky Mountain elk spend some time in the monument but are quite secretive and rarely seen. Bushy-tailed woodrats, also known as packrats, use the cave near the Historic Entrance as a home and are sometimes seen by visitors on the Lantern Tour. Remember that the animals you might see at Jewel Cave are wild. Please do not approach them or attempt to feed them.

Bighorn sheep are a common sight around Jewel Cave National Monument, especially at the historic area.

White-tailed deer are commonly seen around the Monument grazing or laying down in a shady spot to beat the mid-day heat.

Mule deer thrive in the rocky hills of Jewel Cave National Monument and are often seen bedded down along the Canyons Trail.

Elk are rarely seen during the day, however, their tracks and scat are seen all throughout the Canyons trail loop.

Coyotes are the most common carnivore at Jewel Cave National Monument. They are often heard singing as the sun goes down.

Bobcats are the second feline carnivore at Jewel Cave National Monument. They specialize in rodents and birds and are efficient predators.

Striped skunks are house cat sized carnivores that are seldom seen. If you find one, keep your distance!

Unlike many other caves, Jewel Cave was not carved by underground rivers. Most of the cave was formed by slowly circulating, acid-rich groundwater. Its unique story begins with the geologic history of the Black Hills.

The oldest rocks in South Dakota’s Black Hills are Precambrian-era igneous and metamorphic rocks, which formed under heat and pressure nearly 2 billion years ago.

During the Mississippian time period, between 345 and 360 million years ago, a shallow sea covered the area. The sea advanced and receded several times. Sediment and calcium carbonate shells accumulated at the bottom of the sea, and over time, were compressed to form the Pahasapa Limestone (regionally known as the Madison Formation). The shells that formed the limestone came from ancient marine animals such as brachiopods. Fossils from Mississippian time are visible in the cave today.

As the limestone was forming, bodies of gypsum (calcium sulfate) crystallized from the seawater during periods of high evaporation. The gypsum formed irregular masses within the limestone.

Shortly after the limestone was deposited, thin gypsum beds in the upper part of the Pahasapa were dissolved away and the overlying limestone collapsed into the resulting voids. This marked the first stage of cave development at Jewel Cave.

The sea advanced and receded across the area several times. As the sea receded, the limestone was exposed to the open air. It was also exposed to fresh water from rainfall, which began to dissolve the limestone, creating sinkholes and caves. This was the second phase of cave development at Jewel Cave.

Around 320 million years ago, during the Pennsylvanian period, the Minnelusa Formation was deposited as freshwater streams carried sediments into the sea. The Minnelusa consists primarily of sandstone, with a few thin beds of limestone and dolomite. The Minnelusa covered the Pahasapa Limestone and filled the Mississippian sinkholes, cave entrances, and many passages. This reddish "paleofill" is visible in the upper passages of present-day Jewel Cave.

Approximately 60 million years ago, long after the sea receded for the last time, the Black Hills began to form. At the center of this new mountain range, the Precambrian rocks were thrust upward several thousand feet. The younger sedimentary rocks (the Minnelusa and Pahasapa) were eroded from the highest areas over the next 30 million years, exposing the Precambrain rocks to the surface. The remaining sedimentary rocks now surround the central Black Hills and tilt away from the center of the uplift. Jewel Cave is located in the southwestern Black Hills, where the sedimentary rocks tilt (or "dip") at an angle of approximately 4 degrees from the northeast to the southwest.

Nearly 40 million years ago, the climate changed and rainfall increased. Much of this freshwater made its way slowly underground. It first passed through the overlying soil, which was rich in carbon dioxide from decaying plants. The carbon dioxide transformed the water into carbonic acid. This weak acid traveled through fractures in the rock until it reached the water table, which rose and filled cracks in the limestone. This standing or slow-moving acid-rich water formed the majority of Jewel Cave. The water slowly drained from the cave as surface erosion created exits for the water in the form of springs.

The blunt nailhead spar crystals that line most of the cave’s walls are not forming today. They formed when the cave was still completely or partially filled with water. As acidic water dissolved the limestone and created the cave, it became saturated with calcite. Some of this calcite was re-deposited underwater on the walls of the cave, in the form of spar.

Pockets of dogtooth spar, which are sharp-ended crystals, formed when the limestone was still deeply buried under younger rocks. They once lined the openings of early caves that were not completely filled with sediment from deposition of the Minnelusa Formation.

Once the water that filled the cave drained away, cave formations (or speleothems) began to form. Many of these are still forming today.

Calcite speleothems form as surface water makes its way through carbon dioxide-rich soil and travels underground through the limestone. The resulting carbonic acid picks up calcite (CaCO3) as it dissolves the limestone. Once it enters an air-filled cave passage, the acid loses its carbon dioxide to the cave air and becomes water again. Non-acidic water cannot hold calcite in solution, so it deposits the calcite in the form of stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, draperies, or popcorn. The type of formation created depends largely on whether the water is dripping, trickling, or seeping when it enters the cave passage.

Gypsum speleothems form because water seeping into the cave often contains small amounts of gypsum (calcium sulfate, CaSO4) picked up from the limestone or overlying sandstone. When this water evaporates in the cave, it deposits gypsum in the form of needles, beards, flowers, or spiders. Gypsum formations are found only in dry parts of the cave.

Hydromagnesite speleothems are often the by-product of frostwork or popcorn formation. When calcite and aragonite crystallize out of water seeping from the cave walls, magnesium becomes more concentrated than calcium in the remaining water. In areas of very high evaporation, the magnesium will precipitate out as hydromagnesite. Hydromagnesite often appears on the walls as small white clumps resembling chalky cottage cheese. Rare hydromagnesite balloons exist in a few areas of the cave, where the pasty material has been inflated.

Unlike many woodpeckers, northern flickers forage for most of their food on the ground and are often seen poking around fallen pine needles at the monument. These birds are distinctly patterned with a black-striped back, black-spotted breast, and black chest patch. Males additionally have a distinctive red facial marking. The monument is home to both red-shafted and yellow-shafted northern flickers, subspecies that differ slightly in coloration.

Common throughout the Midwest, South, and Eastern United States, the blue jay is usually heard before seen. Their most common vocalization is a jeer, a high-pitched scream that is often repeated. Blue feathers cover their crest, back and tail, while white cover their stomach and breast.

Easily identified by their iridescent blue backs and white underbellies, tree swallows can be seen diving and gliding above Canyons Trail. Although these birds hunt for insects in open habitat, they are named for their tendency to roost within tree cavities. Female tree swallows are duller in color than males, but both sexes have a notched tail. In the spring and fall, these birds migrate in large flocks by the thousands.

Where one cliff swallow is spotted, many others are likely nearby. These birds commonly flock in large groups and build colonies of mud nests on vertical surfaces, including the cliffs along Hell Canyon. Cliff swallows are characterized by a dark blue back, pale orange rump, and white underbelly. They additionally have a dark orange chin and a white forehead patch. Seen from below, this species can be distinguished from all other swallows at the monument by their square tail.

With a gray-brown back and white underbelly, the western wood-peewee can be difficult to distinguish from other flycatchers in the Black Hills. They are most easily identified by their white wing bars and lack of an eye ring. Commonly heard before seen, western wood-peewees are typically among the last songbirds to stop singing in the evening. These birds are most frequently spotted in open woodlands, and visitors may hear them clapping their bill as they defend their nest from predators.

Among the most colorful birds found at the monument, western tanagers are easily identified by their bright yellow body, dark wings, and strong white wing bars. Additionally, males have a scarlet head. These birds are most commonly seen in the pine forest surrounding the monument’s visitor center. The Black Hills are situated along the easternmost summer range of the western tanager.

Sexually dimorphic, males are bright blue across their head, wings, and back, compared to females. This bright blue shines in contrast to the rusty color of their chest and throat. While females show blue and rusty coloration, it will be muted and have hints of gray blended on their head and back.

The striking blue coloration of mountain bluebird sharply contrasts against the green and brown of the ponderosa pines. Males appear sky-blue, but most vibrant on their head, back and wings. Females and juveniles are gray with hints of brown, but blue shows on their wings and tail. Most commonly they are found nesting in tree cavities excavated by local woodpeckers.

Commonly found on the ground searching through leaf litter for food, males and females showcase a slight color variation. Large sparrows with a long tail, males have a black head, throat, and upperparts, while females have a brown head, throat and upperparts. Both males and females have a white belly and white spots along their wings and back.

Rarely seen in winter, but common in summer, the red-headed woodpecker has a red head, neck, and throat. Distinct against their red feathers, you will see a white chest and black back. The wings are black with a large white patch on each, but when in flight or perched, the white shows as a band. Males and females do not differ in coloration, but juveniles have a brown head.

Known for their bald red heads, these large birds commonly soar high in the sky riding thermal air currents. Although red, their legs can appear white if the bird urinates on itself to thermoregulate. When observed from below, you will see two-toned underwings and possibly their ivory bill. When not soaring, they are usually found feeding on carrion.

Seen in the non-breeding season, the most prominent feature of this mid-sized thrush is their white eye ring. Gray in color, small patches of copper show on their wings. Juveniles appear dark gray, speckled with copper and white spots, giving the appearance of scales. During the winter months, both males and females are known for being extremely territorial and switching their diet from insects to berries.

The surface trails at the monument are fairly easy to follow, due to the worn paths. However, trail signage in different areas help guide hikers from one location to the next. NPS Photo / Quentin Bucker Although the cave is the "jewel" of the monument, we also offer two self-guided hiking trails on the surface. These are the one-quarter-mile (0.4 km) Roof Trail and 3.5 mile (5.6 km) Canyons Trail. A third trail, the Hell Canyon Trail, is nearby on the Black Hills National Forest and is 5.5 mile (8.9 km).

Printed trail guides are available at the visitor center and can be obtained at the Jewel Cave Historic Area during the summer months. During the winter season, snowshoes are available for loan at the visitor center. Roof Trail Length: ¼ mile (0.4 km) Loop Hiking Time: 30-45 minutes Trail Head: The trail begins on the south side of the visitor center, along a sidewalk from the main patio. Terrain: Moderate inclines. Not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers. Difficulty: Easy Features: This trail meanders through a ponderosa pine forest, circling the visitor center and returning to the parking lot. It displays a number of wildflowers during the spring, summer, and fall seasons, as well as offers wildlife viewing opportunities at random times. Canyons Trail Length: 3.5 miles (5.6 km) Loop Hiking Time: 2-4 hours Trail Head: The trail begins along the Roof Trail, approximately 650 feet from the visitor center. The trail can also be accessed from the Jewel Cave Historic Area, located about one mile west of the visitor center. Terrain: Moderate to steep inclines. Not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers. Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Features: This trail winds through Lithograph and Hell Canyons into open meadows surrounded by cliffs and rocky outcroppings. During the summer season, the open meadows often display a large assortment of wildflowers, and birdwatching is a popular activity within the canyons year round. This trail also goes by the historic entrance of Jewel Cave and treks through the Jewel Cave Historic Area before following a 9/10 mile spur trail back to the visitor center.

Black Hills National Forest If you are looking for a longer and more adventurous trail than those found in the monument, the Hell Canyon Trail (Trail Number 32) is another option nearby for hikers. The trail is maintained for hikers, horseback riders, and bicycles; no motorized use is allowed. There is about 500 feet in elevation difference between the parking lot and the canyon overlooks, making the trail challenging, yet enjoyable for the casual hiker.

For additional trail options within the Black Hills National Forest, several day trips are available with links to trail descriptions. For those seeking backcountry experiences , the Forest Service also offers options for two to three day trips. Hell Canyon Trail Length: 5.3 miles (8.9 km) Loop Hiking Time: 2-4 hours Trail Head: The trail begins approximately one mile west of the visitor center along Hwy 16; a parking lot is located on the north side of the highway. Terrain: Moderate to steep inclines. Not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers. Difficulty: Moderate Features: This trail ascends a steep incline for about one-half mile, then follows a limestone cliff overlooking Hell Canyon and the surrounding area.

Dog ticks are not uncommon within the monument during the late spring and summer seasons. This is the most common tick species in the Black Hills and can easily be removed when noticed. Hikers are encouraged to check themselves and their clothing frequently while exploring the trails at Jewel Cave. NPS Photo / Bradley Block Before You Go Hiking Hiking in the Black Hills is an enjoyable recreational experience. Yet, every so often, things happen which make for frustrating moments or even dangerous conditions. Whether you are hiking at the monument or elsewhere in western South Dakota, it is important to be safe on the trail and know your limits. The following trail tips will help you avoid "bad" situations. • Never hike alone. • Alert others to your whereabouts and hiking times. • Stay on marked trails. • Do not take any flowers, rocks, or artifacts from the monument. • Pack plenty of water and wear (or bring) appropriate clothes. • Carry a map of the hiking area. • Watch for poison ivy, loose rocks, wildlife, and other hazards along the trail. • Check your body and clothing frequently for ticks. • Pay close attention to the weather and be aware of any inclement weather forecasts. • Report any suspicious behavior and/or safety issues to a park ranger.

Although the cave is the "jewel" of the monument, we also offer two self-guided hiking trails on the surface. These are the one-quarter-mile (0.4 km) Roof Trail and 3.5 mile (5.6 km) Canyons Trail. A third trail, the Hell Canyon Trail, is nearby on the Black Hills National Forest and is 5.5 mile (8.9 km). Printed trail guides are available at the visitor center and can be obtained at the Jewel Cave Historic Area during the summer months. During the winter season, snowshoes are available for loan at the visitor center.

Hiking Time: 2-4 hours Trail Head: The trail begins along the Roof Trail, approximately 650 feet from the visitor center. The trail can also be accessed from the Jewel Cave Historic Area, located about one mile west of the visitor center. Terrain: Moderate to steep inclines. Not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers. Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Features: This trail winds through Lithograph and Hell Canyons into open meadows surrounded by cliffs and rocky outcroppings. During the summer season, the open meadows often display a large assortment of wildflowers, and birdwatching is a popular activity within the canyons year round. This trail also goes by the historic entrance of Jewel Cave and treks through the Jewel Cave Historic Area before following a 9/10 mile spur trail back to the visitor center. NOTE: Due to the Jasper Fire in August 2000, the Canyons Trail does not offer many trees for sun protection. Hikers are encouraged to pack plenty of water, wear a hat, and/or apply sunscreen.

If you are looking for a longer and more adventurous trail than those found in the monument, the Hell Canyon Trail (Trail Number 32) is another option nearby for hikers. The trail is maintained for hikers, horseback riders, and bicycles; no motorized use is allowed. There is about 500 feet in elevation difference between the parking lot and the canyon overlooks, making the trail challenging, yet enjoyable for the casual hiker. For additional trail options within the Black Hills National Forest, several day trips are available with links to trail descriptions. For those seeking backcountry experiences , the Forest Service also offers options for two to three day trips.

605 673-8300 The main phone line connects visitors with staff at the visitor center. Throughout the year, the phone line is monitored by staff on a daily basis, excluding holidays and days with limited visitor services. Please be advised that after-hours messages are not taken on the system; visitors are encouraged to call the visitor center during normal operations and speak with a park ranger for assistance.