Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ⓘ

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area encompasses more than 1.25 million acres in northern Arizona and southeastern Utah and preserves a wide-ranging record of human history stretching back more than ten thousand years. It is the mission of Glen Canyon NRA and the National Park Service to preserve unimpaired the natural and cultural resources of its parks for future generations. Preservation work at Glen Canyon National Recreation Area has been ongoing for decades and takes many forms. Today ongoing research and advances in preservation guide the park’s efforts to preserve this place for the future. Preservation often starts with carefully and regularly monitoring sensitive archeological and historic sites over time. This way, archeologists can observe threats and changes to delicate sites and better understand how to preserve them for the long term. Archeologists work to identify and address problems that could destroy sites before they occur. Archeologists will also sometimes actively repair or stabilize components of historic structures to help them last as long as possible into the future. Glen Canyon NRA follows the historic preservation standards and guidelines developed by the National Park Service, as well as Federal Preservation Laws. Learn more about Historic Preservation in the National Park Service .

Recently, archeologists completed stabilization activities on archeological structures in the backcountry. Only a handful of archeological sites in the park are actively stabilized and preserved. These are usually sites that are in excellent condition and representative of unique prehistoric architecture. Most often the type of prehistoric structures that archeologists stabilize in Glen Canyon NRA are either constructed of dry stacked masonry or mortared masonry. “Dry Stacked” means that no mortar was used in the original construction and these structures depend on large structural stones being stacked carefully to create upright stable walls. These structures can last for hundreds or even thousands of years without falling over. However, sometimes as these structures age, and are exposed to the elements, the structural stones begin to erode and crack, weakening the walls. One way preservation archeologists fix this issue is by placing chinking or shimming stones carefully to support the structural stones. This is a small change to the structure that gives support where needed, reducing the likelihood of wall collapse, allowing the structure to remain intact longer than it would otherwise, without changing the overall look and feel of its original state.

Masonry that uses mortar to “glue” the wall stones together also sometimes need to be stabilized. After many years of exposure to the elements, the prehistoric earth-based mortars inevitably erode, weakening the walls. In cases where the mortar is in such bad shape that the whole structure is in danger of collapsing, archeologists sometimes must add new mortar to the structure. Preservation archeologists make new mortar, sometimes adding a strengthening element, to cover and protect prehistoric mortar or to fill in gaps in the walls. Archeologists carefully document everything they add or change to a structure so that it can be reversed if needed.

Graffiti at petroglyph sites is one of the most common, ongoing cause of damage to heritage sites at Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Archeologists work hard to monitor and document all damage that is done to sites such as scratching, rubbing, and carvings added by modern visitors. This type of vandalism can never be repaired unfortunately, so the park works to educate visitors about visiting these sites with respect. Conservation work can sometimes hide modern vandalism on rock glyph sites, however it can never be completely fixed or hidden. Sometimes the park seeks volunteers to help remove graffiti like this from the park. Join the Graffiti Removal & Intervention Team!

Glen Canyon NRA is the steward of many historic properties listed on the National Register of Historic Places, including the Lee’s Ferry/Lonely Dell Ranch National Historic District. Archeologists work hard all year round to maintain and upkeep the historic buildings here. A recent ongoing project has been to repair and stabilize the 1930’s era Weaver Ranch House at Lonely Dell. Archaeologists have worked with expert masons, carpenters, and architects to do internal and external repairs to the house. One recent project focused on repairing the external mortar between the building stones. This process involved manually removing old eroded and damaged mortar and replacing it with new. Staff developed a mix of cement, lime, gravel, and sand to get the coloring and hardness of the new mortar just right. The goal in historic structure preservation is to use new materials that are compatible with the historical construction techniques.

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area preserves a record of more than 10,000 years of human presence, adaptation, and exploration. This place remains significant for many descendant communities, providing opportunities for people to connect with cultural values and associations that are both ancient and contemporary.

Your history may lie within this park. You may find it etched onto walls or perched on the edge of a cliff. It may be a wagon at Lees Ferry, a pioneer rancher's house, a Spanish inscription, or a Native American pueblo. It may even be the rocks, the plants, the water itself.

Without a strong connection to its heritage, a society can have no clear direction. Heritage is the story of a society's journey through time. The heritage of many people is embedded into this landscape and is in danger of being lost. Much preservation work at Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is done by staff in the Sciences and Resource Management division, however all staff and even you can help preserve these places for the future.

Make every attempt to leave Glen Canyon nicer than you found it . “Take only pictures and leave only footprints” is a good reminder. Do not remove anything from the area. Leave the flowers, rocks and everything else for others to enjoy. Carry all of your trash out of the canyon, including toilet paper and other hygiene items. Do not burn or bury it.

Archeological structures and petroglyphs are very old and are fragile. Please do not sit, lean, or stand on walls of archeological structures. Only enter historic buildings or archeological sites where allowed and always use approved trails, doorways, or ladders. Do not touch or deface rock art or carve graffiti into the rock. It can never be repaired. DESTRUCTION OF ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES IS ILLEGAL. To report disturbances, notify the National Park Service by phone or at any of the park’s visitor centers , ranger stations, or marinas.

The collections are part of a larger National Park Service collections program. NPS museums collect objects specific to the mission of the individual parks and interpret those collections in their original context. Their scope is wider than that of most public or private institutions, providing broad representation of the natural and cultural heritage of the United States. Park museums and collections are distinguished by a strong association with place. Our collections pertain specifically to the areas within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Rainbow Bridge National Monument.

Archeology, Ethnology, History, Art The cultural collection documents the use and settlement of the park units from the Paleoindian period (11,500 years ago) to the present. More than 2,600 archeological and historical sites have been documented. These sites, spanning a vast temporal and geographical range, have produced thousands of artifacts and spurred archeological research for over a century.

The historical archeological collection tells the story of exploration , ranching, mining, river running and ferry operations and includes materials dating to the 19 th and 20 th centuries. Lees Ferry Historic District and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District provided the largest collection of historical archeological materials.

Leave surface artifacts where you find them, document their location, notify park staff at any visitor center or call 928-608-6200.

This collection includes objects and archives produced or used by associated Native American tribes that have a traditional, historical, cultural, or religious association with our park units. This collection illustrates the continuity, importance and ongoing nature of tribal relationships to the landscapes and resources, as well as the creative, artistic and cultural traditions of the associated tribes which include: Hopi Tribe Kaibab Paiute Tribe Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah Pueblo of Zuni Navajo Nation San Juan Southern Paiute Ute Mountain Ute

An herbarium representing nearly every one of the 900 or so plants in our park units. Duplicates are loaned to the Deaver Herbarium, San Juan College Herbarium and S.L. Welch Herbarium.

Fossils and trackways found by visitors or staff should not be removed from their original location.

If you think you have found a trackway or fossil, please do not collect or attempt to move it. Instead, take a picture (with your phones GPS on so we can find it) and either visit your nearest park visitor center or call 928-608-6200 with as much information about your find as possible. This helps us to protect our nation's paleontological resources.

This Collection represents some 300 million years of time and include weird amphibians from the Permian, dinosaurs, and plesiosaur reptiles from the Mesozoic (Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous), and giant ground sloth and mastodon dung from the Pleistocene. Most of our approximately 50,0000 specimens are housed at museums, including at the Museum of Northern Arizona and the Natural History Museum of Utah. In addition, the collection includes:

Footprints and trackways are traces of extinct animal behaviors. Paleontologists cannot always identify the species of animals by their tracks alone, so we have to assign such tracks an "ichnospecies" (icno=trace) name (Figure to the right).

The Larval Fish Laboratory , Colorado State University, provides thousands of larval fish specimens for study from permitted research of Glen Canyon’s 17 non-native and eight native fish species.

The Archival Collection documents administrative history and research conducted in the park units in order to inform future management decisions. The archival collection contains more than 670,000 items including:

For research requests, please contact our Museum by email with the subject "Research Request" or call 928-608-6280 and leave a message.

People have been coming to the canyon country around Glen Canyon for thousands of years. The earliest people known to have migrated into the area, around the end of the last great ice age, were hunters and gatherers. They became experts in the many plant, animal, and mineral resources of the region and would migrate through the area on a seasonal basis, depending on which resources were available in different locations during different times of year. Although they did not build permanent structures, they left behind rock writing, stone tools, and even basketry that is preserved in dry cracks and natural rock shelters. Between 2000 and 1500 years ago, people in the region began to cultivate crops including corn, beans, squash and cotton, and live in larger, permanent villages supported by farming. These farmers are known as Ancestral Puebloans to archaeologists today. Famous village sites like Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde and Keet Seel in Navajo National Monument are examples of their impressive architecture. The Ancestral Puebloan people lived across much of the Colorado Plateau until the end of the 13th century, when most Ancestral Puebloans migrated away from these areas. Just as their hunter-gatherer ancestors used migration as a strategy to thrive in the harsh landscapes of canyon country, the Ancestral Puebloans of the 13 th century migrated to new homes. Climactic changes like drought may have led people to decide to move, or perhaps they were attracted to easier farming conditions and growing communities in other areas. The Ancestral Puebloans migrated South and East, to places that are still home to their descendants today– the Rio Grande Valley, Western New Mexico, and Hopi mesas in Arizona. Other Ancestral Puebloan people may have remained on the Colorado Plateau, adapting their ways of life to the changing conditions and integrating with other cultures, such as the ancestors of the Ute and Paiute people who remain in the region to this day. Modern day descendant groups still remember the places their ancestors lived, and many see the cultural sites on this landscape not as abandoned, but as living places that are still relevant to their culture today.

The Glen Canyon area was on the outskirts of the Ancestral Puebloan world. Few large communities were built in this area, but evidence of people here is still plentiful. People used the canyons as corridors to travel across the otherwise harsh and challenging landscape, and farmed along the beds of the canyons where water could be found. They collected the natural resources found here, continuing to use the knowledge developed by their early hunter-gatherer ancestors. Cultural sites that can teach us about the people who lived here during that time include petroglyphs and pictographs, storage structures used by farmers to store their crops, places where people came to extract and process stone for tools, and, of course, the places they lived.

Defiance House, three miles up the middle fork of Forgotten Canyon, is one of the best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan dwellings in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Defiance House was discovered by archeologists in 1959. Surveying the area that would soon by flooded by the rising waters of Lake Powell, University of Utah archeologists followed a dangerous hand-and-toehold trail up the sandstone cliff and were delighted to find an Ancestral Puebloan site where "most of the roofs were still in place, and... two perfect red bowls still had scraps of food in them." They named the site "Defiance House" for the large pictograph panel painted in white pigment on the wall, which appears to show three defiant figures with shields. Defiance House was occupied from about 1250 to 1285 AD. The site is protected from the elements in the winter and is shady and cool in the summer because it was built in a natural alcove. The conditions that made it an attractive place for its inhabitants to build are also what has kept it so well-preserved until it was found by archeologists. Because Defiance House is located above the full pool level of Lake Powell, it wasn’t destroyed when the lake filled like many other sites in the area. This makes Defiance House especially unique and irreplaceable. Please help us preserve Defiance House and any other cultural sites you visit by being respectful, leaving what you find, and practicing Leave No Trace. The structures and rock art are very old and are fragile. Please do not sit, lean or stand on walls. Do not touch or deface rock art or carve graffiti. DESTRUCTION OF ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES IS ILLEGAL. To report disturbances, notify the National Park Service at visitor centers , ranger stations or marinas.

Leaving their homes east of the Mississippi River because of religious persecution, members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (LDS) began arriving in the valley of the Great Salt Lake in 1847. By the 1870s, they had expanded settlements into the southern portions of what is today the state of Utah. Few LDS families, however, were living in the region east of the Colorado River, and the area was void of any major settlement. In order to establish a stronger foothold, the Mormon Church organized the San Juan mission to select a site for settlement in the region.

A call to fill the mission was issued by the LDS Church in 1878-1879. A scouting party under the direction of Silas S. Smith left Paragonah, Utah, in April 1879 to determine a route and search for a suitable place to establish the new colony. A site at the mouth of Montezuma Creek on the San Juan River was selected, but a viable route was still uncertain. If the expedition chose either route used by the scouts, it would mean a trip of nearly 500 miles (800 km). A short-cut, thought to be simpler, was chosen with a rendezvous at Forty-Mile Spring, south of the town of Escalante. The expedition, consisting of 250 men, women, and children, 83 wagons, and over 1000 head of livestock, gathered at the appointed place in November 1879.

The "short-cut" proved to be deceptive, and the pioneers spent the winter at Forty-Mile Spring. A portion of the group camped at the top of the Hole-in-the-Rock, a narrow crack in the canyon rim 2.5 miles (4 km) downstream from the mouth of the Escalante River. It was through this notch that the party intended to make its way. Throughout the winter, they worked on the crack, enlarging the opening.

Work was slow and tedious with only pick axes, shovels, and limited quantities of blasting powder available. The precipitous drop to the river below was nearly 2000 feet (610 m) with an average grade of 25 degrees, although some places were as steep as 45 degrees. At last, on January 26, 1880, the expedition made its way slowly down the precarious road. A ferry built at the river by Charles Hall and others was used to cross the river.

Once across the river, the pioneers discovered that their problems had only just begun. Through a rough, perilous, uncharted wilderness the group made its way. Remarkably, no lives were lost. In fact, two babies were born. After long months of hard work and deprivation, the party reached the San Juan River. Though several miles short of their goal, the determined but weary travelers founded their new home at the current site of Bluff, Utah. A journey that was to have taken six weeks took six months instead. The Hole-in-the-Rock Road continued to be used as the primary link between Bluff and the established settlements to the west for several years. It was eventually abandoned in favor of a better route.

Most of the original Hole-in-the-Rock trail is visible today and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It remains a silent monument to the faith and tenacity of those first LDS pioneers.

Whether you approach it from land or water, much of the original trail is visible, though approximately one-third is now under the waters of Lake Powell. Visitors may hike the passage - 0.5 miles (.8 km) each way.

Carry water and plan on a minimum of one hour for the round trip. The trail is very rocky, so wear sturdy hiking shoes. Time and the elements have sent large boulders and other debris into the passage, making it difficult to identify much of the original road. On the other hand, this may make it easier to appreciate the obstacles and considerable amount of work done to create the road in the first place.

BY LAND: Follow the driving guide below or on the NPS App for information on history along with scenery. At times the road is accessible to two-wheel drive vehicles with good ground clearance. Four-wheel drive is recommended and will be required after heavy rains. Check at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center before proceeding. Always respect the law and help preserve the land by staying on designated roads. Off-road travel by any vehicles, including mountain bikes, is prohibited.

BY LAKE: Hole-in-the-Rock is accessible by boat from Lake Powell. It is located at buoy 66, which is 66 miles (106 km) uplake from Glen Canyon Dam or approximately 30 miles (48 km) downlake from Bullfrog and Halls Crossing. Boaters may tie up along the rocky shoreline. The trail is to the right and is easier to follow above the high water mark. Look for the informational exhibit on the right-hand slope. When hiking, be sure to notice the miners' stairs, added by the Hoskaninni Mining Company around the turn of the century, as well as grooves and gouges from the wagon wheels and hubs of the original pioneers.

In the 1870s, pioneers from Utah began to expand their settlements into northern Arizona. Nearly 600 miles (965 km) of deep canyons along the Colorado River stood in their way. One of the only places a wagon could reach the river from both north and south was at the mouth of Glen Canyon. Since the area was accessible and was a natural corridor between Utah and Arizona, a ferry was established there in 1873. Named after the first ferry operator, John D. Lee, Lees Ferry became an important route for pioneers, settlers and local traffic. In the 1920s, automobiles began using the ferry as a means to cross the Colorado River. It was recognized that it was time to find a safer, more reliable way for vehicles to cross. A bridge site was selected 5 miles (8km) downriver at Marble Canyon. Construction of the bridge began in June of 1927. This was rugged and remote country and it was difficult to get men, materials and equipment from one rim to the other, a distance of only 800 feet (244m). The ferry was used to transport materials when possible. However, on June 7, 1928, the ferry sank in an accident which killed three men. Since the bridge known then as Grand Canyon Bridge was nearing completion, the ferry was not replaced.

Navajo Bridge served the area well for 66 years. However, as automobiles and trucks became larger, wider, and heavier, the need for a stronger, wider bridge became evident. The historic bridge was only 18 feet (5.5m) wide and had a 40 ton (36 metric tons) limit. Approaches to the bridge on each side were dangerous with limited sight of oncoming traffic. Pedestrian safety was also a factor. Although pedestrians were not allowed on the bridge, the temptation was too great for many. Over a 13 year period, 72 accidents occurred on or while approaching the bridge; eight were fatal.

The time had come to replace the historic bridge. It was decided a new bridge would be built just downstream from the existing bridge, with new approaches on each side. The historic bridge would remain and serve as a pedestrian bridge and provide visitors with a breathtaking view of the Colorado River 467 feet (142m) below.

Construction on the new bridge began in May of 1993. During construction, it was necessary to make sure no rocks fell into the river. There would be too great a danger to the rafters on the Colorado River below. A net was strung under the bridge to catch debris. All rock for the footings was cut and hauled up to the rim. Additionally, it was necessary to remove rock for the new approaches to the bridge. The rock was cut using a technique that made it appear natural and in places it was stained to give it a weathered look. On May 2, 1995, two years after construction began traffic was diverted onto the new Navajo Bridge.

The dedication took place on September 14, 1995. Once again, the ceremony attracted a large number of people. Speakers included representatives from state and local governments, National Park Service, Native American tribes and Arizona Department of Transportation. The new Navajo Bridge was christened with a bucket of Colorado River water.

After completion of the new bridge, the old rest area on the west side of the bridge was remodeled and expanded to include a seasonal visitor center and bookstore. On the Navajo Nation (east) side of the bridge, there is an area for Native American craft vendors. The Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center opened for business in April of 1997 and was dedicated on June 17, 1997.

In March of 1864, pioneer from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS) Jacob Hamblin and his men built a raft at the mouth of the Paria and made the first successful crossing at the point on the Colorado that would become Lees Ferry, transporting all fifteen men, their supplies and horses. Hamblin was on a mission to warn the Navajo of northern Arizona to stop making raids into Utah, stealing livestock and threatening LDS expansion. The lands into which the pioneers wanted to move was viewed as "unsettled" territory, theirs for the taking under the precepts of Manifest Destiny, despite millennia of native occupation. Over the next few years, the "war" between the natives and the LDS settlers escalated, with the Paiute beginning to make raids on White settlements as well. In an effort to deflect native threats to their vulnerable southeastern frontier, the LDS posted guards at the Ute Ford/Crossing of the Fathers and at "Pahreah Crossing" (Lees Ferry) in the winter of 1869-1870.

September, 1870, Hamblin guided an expedition from southern Utah to the upper Paria River, and on to Pipe Springs. This notable expedition included Major John Wesley Powell, LDS church President Brigham Young, and LDS leader John D. Lee. As a result of this fortuitous meeting of powerful leaders, John D. Lee was sent to establish a ferry crossing. Lee's new post was also brought about by another factor: his supposed role in a bizarre and violent chapter in Mormon history, the Mountain Meadows Massacre. Lee became the sole Mormon scapegoat for the murder of 120 eastern emigrants and was excommunicated; his relative seclusion at the ferry kept him from other Mormons and the authorities, while the Church of Latter-Day Saints turned a blind eye to the situation.

John D. Lee, a practicing polygamist, as was common at the time, built stone and wooden homes for the two of his families that lived with him, as well as a dam and an irrigation system for farming. The ranch at Lees Ferry was named Lonely Dell due to its austere remoteness. The LDS Church provided the lumber and manpower to build the first real ferryboat at Lees Ferry, the Colorado, first launched on January 11, 1873. Although approach roads on either side of the river had yet to be built, wagonloads of colonists began arriving to be ferried across the Colorado River to begin new lives in LDS settlements in Arizona. Tensions between the settlers and the Navajo began mounting again in 1874, precipitating the construction of a defensive fort, which was soon converted into a trading post, and later a residence, school, and mess hall. This building, the Lees Ferry Fort, is one of the few historic buildings still intact at Lees Ferry. In 1877, John D. Lee was executed for his role in the massacre, the only member of the LDS Church ever held acountable. Ownership of the ferry operation fell into the hands of Lee's wife, Emma, a capable woman who operated the ferry and farmed the ranch for several years. By this time, the LDS Church was well aware of the importance of Lees Ferry as a link between settlements in Arizona and Utah. In 1879, the Church bought the ferry rights from Emma Lee for $3,000, and sent Warren Marshall Johnson and his plural families to the ferry to take over operations.

You can observe the beat of wings, variations of color, and calls of birds just about anywhere—from your backyard to the backcountry of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (NRA). With the large open water habitat of Lake Powell and the Colorado River below Glen Canyon Dam, Glen Canyon NRA is very diverse with 315 documented bird species. This diversity can be attributed to the colonization of Lake Powell by aquatic birds, augmented by the presence of the Colorado River, which is most likely a migration corridor for aquatic and riparian birds.

Few aquatic birds were documented along the Colorado River prior to the construction of dams in the 1900s. Spring floods scoured out the river channel, making it difficult for vegetation to establish and create aquatic habitat. The handful of wildlife surveys conducted in the early 1900s noted a few American coots ( Fulica americana ) and dabbling ducks, which feed primarily on water surfaces and upend to reach deeper food. Construction of the Glen Canyon Dam and other dams for power generation and flood control in the southwestern United States created the first large bodies of open water in this arid region since the late Pleistocene ice age, which ended approximately 10,000 years ago. The Glen Canyon Dam, completed by the Bureau of Reclamation in 1963, created habitat above and below the dam. As the reservoir began to fill and habitat became available, rare bird species and species previously unknown to the region were documented. Lake Powell reached full pool in 1980 and is a large, deep reservoir that provides wintering habitat for aquatic birds, particularly for diving species which feed in shallow side bays. The cool, clear water released from the dam supports aquatic vegetation and rainbow trout downstream, which creates habitat for large wintering populations of waterfowl, especially diving species (diving ducks, coots, grebes, and loons).

Surveys of the aquatic birds of Lake Powell were initiated in 1994 and continue to the present. Surveyors observed dabbling ducks, diving species, waders (long-legged shorebirds and herons), and aerialists (gulls, which are opportunistic feeders and can be seen everywhere from restaurant parking lots to beaches, and terns, which prefer to feed on small fish near the surface of water). Known water bird species increased from 32 species before 1963 to 83 in 2007. Some species may have occurred in this area before the construction of the dam and influx of bird surveyors, but were not documented. Diving species are the most common type of aquatic bird found on Lake Powell. During the 1994-1997 surveys, the American coot and Western grebe ( Aechmophorus occidentalis ) accounted for 81% all individuals documented. The Gadwall ( Anas strepera ), green-winged teal ( A. crecca ), ring-billed gull ( Larus delawarensis ), common goldeneye ( Bucephala clangula ), and redhead ( Aythya collaris ) accounted for an additional 8% of the total bird observations. Western grebe counts were highest when the numbers of small fish in Lake Powell were high.

Several diving species and the majority dabbling duck species were observed primarily in habitats of shallow water near the shoreline with drowned tamarisk ( Tamarix ramosissima ) and large shallow bays of open water. This is presumably because the primary food sources for these birds (algae, some aquatic plants, small invertebrates, and small fish) are found in these areas. Few birds were observed along the bare, rocky shores which account for over 90% of the Lake Powell shoreline.

Throughout Glen Canyon NRA, birds, including aquatic species, have low breeding populations. Only 80 native breeding species have been confirmed in the area, with the potential addition of 13 summer residents that probably breed. This is likely due to the typically harsh climate, large areas of bare slickrock and cliffs, and low desert shrub vegetation communities, which do not provide suitable breeding habitat for these species. The level of Lake Powell, which is an oligotrophic lake poor in nutrients, fluctuates and prevents the establishment of well-developed aquatic and wetland vegetation and habitat, simultaneously preventing breeding by most aquatic species because of lack of suitable habitat. Instead, a thin layer of algae attaches to boulders and drowned tamarisk stems, creating relatively poor habitat for aquatic birds, especially dabbling ducks.

Though breeding populations are low in Glen Canyon NRA, the diversity of birds is high. Several federally listed species have been documented in the park, including the Mexican spotted owl ( Strix occidentalis ), bald eagle ( Haliaeetus leucocephalus ), and Southwestern willow flycatcher ( Empidonax traillii ). The Mexican spotted owl is a rare permanent resident, while bald eagles are common winter residents along the Lake Powell shoreline. Small numbers of Southwestern willow flycatchers, which are typically found in low, brushy habitat near water, migrate through the area in late spring. California condors ( Gymnogyps californianus ) were reintroduced to the Glen Canyon area in 1996 and are a rare transient resident. Peregrine falcons ( Falco peregrinus ), delisted from the endangered species list in 1999, are common around Lake Powell and along the major rivers, occupying 80-90% of known nests in the area each year.

The Lees Ferry area is part of a Globally Important Bird Area (IBA) recognized for its rich biodiversity, habitats for species of concern, and outstanding value to bird conservation. Learn more on the Arizona IBA page.

Several exotic species are established in Glen Canyon NRA and the surrounding area. Rock doves (feral pigeons, Columba livia ), European starlings ( Sturnus vulgaris ), house sparrows ( Passer domesticus ), and Eurasian collared-doves ( Streptopelia decaocto ) are associated with the developed areas, but have not spread to natural areas because of lack of suitable habitat. Chukar ( Alectoris chukar ), a Eurasian exotic introduced as a game bird, are widespread in riparian areas and adjacent open grass and shrub areas. Greater roadrunners ( Geococcyx californianus ), native to the southwest but expanding their range to the north, are an infrequent local permanent resident, and appear to be increasing in the developed areas.

Environmental change is constant in the Colorado Plateau and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Changes can be the result of natural processes or human actions. Some can be easily observed during a visit while others may be so gradual that they are unnoticeable over the course of a lifetime. Long before humans came to the Colorado Plateau, environmental processes such as weather, geological processes, climate change, and fire regime shaped the region. The Colorado River and its tributaries carved out canyons, and plant and animal communities adapted to their environment or disappeared. More recently, humans increased their imprint on this environment through grazing, fire suppression, water development, and the introduction of nonnative species.

Fire regimes also changed with the settlement of Anglo-Americans to the area. Fires, which were typically frequent, low-intensity fires were perceived as a threat. By suppressing fires, large fuel loads accumulated and the fires that did burn were huge, high-intensity wildfires as is currently being seen in the West. The suppression of fire regimes changed nutrient cycles and decreased diversity. We are now seeing the effects of 100 years of fire suppression, and higher temperatures and reduced moisture availability associated with climate change.

As the West grew, populations demanded more water and energy. Dams were constructed on the Colorado River and other rivers of the West, controlling the flow of water. The construction of Glen Canyon Dam, which was completed in 1963, created Lake Powell, the nation’s second largest reservoir. Lake Powell flooded the canyons that had been carved out by the river over time, drowning archaeology sites, plants, and animals, and irreversibly altering the environment. Construction of Glen Canyon Dam and other dams provided energy and water which supported agriculture and growing populations. The creation of Lake Powell created new recreation opportunities and increased visitation to the area, causing a greater human impact on the often fragile resources of the region.

Catching a glimpse of a mouse scurrying to its burrow, stepping around scat, or identifying tracks may be your only experience with the mammals of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (NRA). Though there are fewer species of mammals in the world than there are birds or reptiles, mammals are diverse and fill many niches. Mammals are warm-blooded, or homeothermic, meaning they have the ability to maintain a constant body temperature, which makes them less dependent on their surroundings and able to live in a wide range of places. Mammals have developed unique adaptations to survive in desert environments like the Colorado Plateau. Hair, unique to this group of life, is generally light in color on desert dwellers. Smaller mammals are more common in a desert environment because of their lower energy requirements and lower rates of heat loss. Bats or rodents require less food and water resources than larger mammals, such as bighorn sheep ( Ovis canadensis ) or pronghorn ( Antilocapra americana ), which exert high amounts of energy regulating body temperature.

Pocket mice and kangaroo rats are common small mammals in Glen Canyon NRA and western North America. These rodents rarely travel far from their complex burrows systems which have separate chambers for nesting, child rearing, sleeping, and food storage. Most rodents remain in these burrows or other shady places during the day to stay cool, becoming active at night. Pocket mice and kangaroo rats block their burrow entrances for safety from predators, which include rattlesnakes, owls, hawks, coyotes, and badgers. Many rodents obtain all of their water from their food, which is an adaptation to the desert environment of several mammals. The primary food source of pocket mice and kangaroo rats is seeds, which they carry back to their burrows in cheek pouches, then neatly store by type. Ord’s kangaroo rat ( Dipodomys ordii ), common to Glen Canyon NRA, is ecologically important because of their seed caching behavior. The kangaroo rat will husk and cache seeds of Indian ricegrass ( Achnatherum hymenoides ) and other grasses, sometimes forgetting caches. Kangaroo rats are adept jumpers and are able to change directions while jumping in mid-air, using their tail for balance.

Woodrats, or packrats, are known for their storage and garbage structures called middens. Species found in Glen Canyon NRA are the white throated woodrat ( Neotoma albigula ), bushy-tailed woodrat ( N. cinerea ), desert woodrat ( N. lepida ), and Mexican woodrat ( N. mexicana ). Woodrats prefer to build their middens on rocky slopes in scrublands and pinyon-juniper woodlands. Woodrats will mark their middens and territory with urine which, over time, can crystallize, fossilizing the leaves, seeds, fruit, sticks, pollen, bones, and other items inside. Some middens have been dated to over 50,000 years old. These fossilized garbage piles show a record of the plant and animal communities, or paleocommunities, which once existed in the woodrat’s range. This data can be used to study the changes in plant communities over time and predict future movements. Research derived from woodrat middens on the Colorado Plateau predicts plants will respond individually to global warming in the near future.

The deer mouse ( Peromyscus ma niculatus), also found in the Glen Canyon area, is the primary host for Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome . Avoid contact with mice and rats and the saliva, urine, and feces from these rodents to prevent contracting the disease.

Bats are the only mammals capable of true flight and are the second largest group of mammals in the world, following rodents. Bats are able to lower their temperature during the day to conserve energy as they roost alone or in colonies in the towering cliffs and canyon walls. Watch and listen for bats in the Glen Canyon area as they emerge at dusk to hunt for insects. The largest bat you are likely to see is the pallid bat ( Antrozous pallidus ), which is commonly seen at dusk. Some bats may only be seen during migration, such as the big brown bat ( Eptesicus fuscus ). Bats species in Glen Canyon NRA include little brown myotis ( Myotis lucifugus ), fringed myotis ( Myotis thysanodes ), western pipistrelle ( Pipistrellus hesperus ), and the Brazilian free-tailed bat ( Tadarida brasiliensis ). Free-tailed bats can reach flight speeds of 60 miles per hour and have special ear adaptations to reduce turbulence. To survive cooler winter temperatures, bats may migrate to a warmer location or lower their body temperature, metabolism, and breathing to conserve energy in a state similar to hibernation called torpor. Disturbing roosting bats or bats in torpor may compromise their energy reserves and survival. Preventing White-nose syndrome in Glen Canyon's bat population is very important.

The black-tailed jackrabbit ( Lepus californicus ) is characterized by its long, black-tipped ears and long, strong legs. It is common in the Glen Canyon area and can be seen crossing roads or darting between bushes. Jackrabbits get most of their water from vegetation and have large ears to facilitate heat loss. It can reach speeds of up 35 to 40 miles per hour and hop up to 20 feet, eluding predators such as coyotes, foxes, and birds of prey. The black-tailed jackrabbit is the most abundant, widely distributed jackrabbit in North America, and is primarily found in the southwest. However, this it is expanding its northern range north due to a warming climate trend.

Larger mammals, like the desert bighorn sheep ( Ovis canadensis ) must cover more ground to find sufficient food and water, and are seldom seen. Desert bighorn sheep are well-adapted to the desert environment and prefer rocky cliffs away from human activity. Unlike Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, desert bighorns have smaller bodies, longer legs, and lighter coats. Bighorn sheep are especially vulnerable to diseases carried by domestic sheep and are poor dispersers. Unregulated hunting, habitat destruction, grazing, and disease decimated or eliminated bighorn sheep populations across the west in the 1800s. The bighorn sheep of Glen Canyon NRA have been reestablished from herds in the Escalante and Canyonlands areas.

Though there is no historical evidence of river otters in the Escalante area, the Sonoran river otter ( Lutra canadensis ) is presumed to have been in the area and is probably extinct. Northern river otters, a different subspecies, were introduced to the Escalante River in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument to reestablish an otter population. These introduced Northern river otters have reached Lake Powell.

The environmental processes such as climate change, fire regime, weather, and geological processes that shaped the Colorado Plateau are recorded in rock formations, which are the storytellers of the region’s history. Canyons carved out by the Colorado River and its tributaries expose rock layers deposited on top of each other over time; the youngest rocks at the top and the oldest at the bottom. These rock layers reveal fossils and traces of past life forms, principally from the Mesozoic Era, 248 to 65 million years ago. Fossils preserved in the rocks of Glen Canyon NRA are evidence of the life and changes that occurred during the Mesozoic Era and add to our understanding of biodiversity and evolutionary history. Natural erosion, flash floods which accelerate erosion, illegal collection, and vandalism threaten the paleontological resources of this region.

The geologic formations of the Colorado Plateau also affect vegetation communities by forming different soils and constraining water flow. Lush hanging gardens cling to vertical cliff walls and are fed by springs which flow down through porous rocks and cracks, until the water reaches a less permeable layer of rock when it begins to move sideways. The water may eventually reach the walls of a canyon where it seeps out of the rock and flows down, allowing plants to grow directly on the cliff face and on the ground around the seep. Though hanging gardens cover less than 0.1% of Glen Canyon’s 1.2 million acres, they are especially biologically diverse and support at least 10 endemic species, which are unique to the Glen Canyon area. The types and abundance of plants and animals in deserts are directly related to water. With limited water sources, many plant species, associated terrestrial invertebrates, aquatic invertebrates, birds, mammals, and amphibians use hanging gardens. Erosion caused by human and livestock foot traffic can increase the risk of invasion by nonnative species . Changes in regional precipitation patterns caused by global climate change could also threaten hanging gardens.

Though the waters of Lake Powell, created by the completion of the Glen Canyon Dam in 1963, covered fossils and drowned hanging gardens and other vegetation and animal communities, these unique natural features can be found elsewhere in Glen Canyon NRA. The continued protection and preservation of these unique resources will contribute to the changing diversity of the ecosystem and biological communities of the Colorado Plateau and Glen Canyon NRA. The 1.2 million acres of the Colorado Plateau protected by Glen Canyon NRA provide abundant scientific research opportunities that contribute to our understanding of these unique resources.

Predators in the area include bobcats ( Felis rufus ), mountain lions ( F. concolor ), and coyotes ( Canis latrans ). These mammals avoid humans, but their tracks and scat show their presence in the area. Prey includes rodents, birds, lizards, domesticated animals, and other large mammals like mule deer ( Odocoileus hemionus ). Black bear ( Ursus americanus ) are very rare. There is one record of a male elk at Lee’s Ferry, which must have come down the Paria River. The gray wolf ( C. lupus ) and grizzly bear ( U. arctos ) were historically found in the Glen Canyon area. Following Anglo-American settlement, native prey was over-hunted and these predators began preying on livestock. This eventually led to the extirpation of the gray wolf and grizzly bear.

Bison ( Bison bison ) were transplanted in 1941 from Yellowstone National Park to the Henry Mountains northwest of Glen Canyon NRA. They roam freely and are one of the only remaining genetically pure bison herds. Though normally found on the Henry Mountains, some bison may occur in the Little Rockies area and Thompson Mesa near Halls Creek in the winter.

Native species, like the bighorn sheep, kangaroo rat, and coyote, are integral parts of the Colorado Plateau ecosystem. Protection of native populations can preserve natural ecosystem functions and prevent endangerment and extinction of unique species. Increased scientific research on the mammal populations of the Colorado Plateau will reveal more about the local animal communities and the significance of these species.

Happy Campers at Lone Rock NPS/VIP Brent Davis Regulations Camping is limited to 14 consecutive days and no more than 30 days total in the park in any calendar year. In campground with designated sites: Maximum of 8 people per individual designated site; maximum of 2 tents per site. Designated Group sites accommodate more. Food, pet food, garbage, and other related camp supplies must be stored in containers highly resistant and impervious to entry by birds and other wildlife. Quiet hours are 10 pm to 6 am, unless otherwise posted. There is no camping allowed in Rainbow Bridge National Monument or within/on archeological sites. Campfires Campfires are allowed in NPS-provided receptacles (fire rings and grills) and along Lake Powell's shoreline below high-water level (3,700 feet), except within developed areas. Do not leave trash in fire rings. Fireworks are illegal. Check the Superintendent's Compendium for specifics . Check for fire restrictions in effect due to high fire danger conditions. Such restrictions are a regular part of hot, dry summer months, but can occur any time of year. Campgrounds Operated by the National Park Service These campgrounds do not take reservations and do not have phone numbers. You can pay online for a site but it does not reserve a site. Have your site picked out before paying your fee at Pay.gov

Map showing designated sites on the Colorado River between Glen Canyon Dam and Lees Ferry Colorado River Primitive Camping, Between Glen Canyon Dam and Lees Ferry Do not boat below the cable downstream from the Lees Ferry launch ramp. There are dangerous rapids below the cable. Downstream waters are restricted. A permit is required from Grand Canyon National Park to float this section of the river. Camping is limited to 14 days. Camping is permitted in designated areas only. There are five designated areas, marked with signs, on a first-come, first-served basis. Upriver campsites are provided with toilets and fire pits. All campsites are located well above the river and require a short walk from your boat. This is to prevent camps from being damaged by high water releases. Fires are permitted only in the fireplaces provided or in portable fire pans. No ground fires are allowed. If portable fire pans are used, all burned charcoal must be carried out. Collection of wood is prohibited. Carry out all litter and garbage. There is no regular garbage collection upriver. Plastic litter bags are available free of charge at the ranger station. Dumpsters are available at the launch ramps for garbage disposal. Federal law prohibits the disturbance, defacement, or removal of historic or archeological sites. Do not deface rocks and cliffs. Do not disturb plants or animals, and do not feed wildlife. There are no fees or permits required to camp upriver. Entrance fees and vessel use fees apply.

Camping is allowed in undeveloped areas on Lake Powell. NPS Lake Powell Shoreline Primitive Camping There is no camping fee or permit required to camp on the lake in undeveloped areas. However, entrance fees and vessel use fees apply. You can camp anywhere on the shorelines of Lake Powell except in developed marinas. When planning a camping trip by boat or 4-wheel-drive road in Glen Canyon, it is best to buy a map beforehand. These show the side canyons, good hiking spots, points of interest and marinas, explain the navigation system, and may provide fishing information. In an emergency you will need to report your location on Marine Band 16 or call 911. The main channel varies in depth from 100 to 600 feet. It is recommended that you anchor on a beach for the night, as high winds can move boats into rocks and cause damage. There are no motor vehicles, off-road vehicles or bicycles allowed in Glen Canyon's roadless areas. All campsites are required to have a portable toilet unless toilets are available on the vessel or within 200 yards of the campsite. Regular water-quality checks are conducted to ensure compliance with sanitation laws. Pets are allowed on beaches as long as waste is cleaned up. Dispose of waste properly. Burying waste of any kind on the beach is prohibited. Waste may not be contained in a plastic bag unless it is an NPS-approved Waste Bag Containment System, which must be deposited in the trash. When anchoring multiple houseboats on the same beach, park at least 100 feet apart to help reduce carbon monoxide buildup. It is not a good idea to tie powerboat or personal-watercraft lines to houseboat-anchor lines, as they can cause the anchor lines to come loose. Do not camp under overhanging rocks, as downpouring rain can sink a vessel. Ground fires of wood only are allowed below the high water line. Fires must be no more than 4 feet wide and 4 feet high. Fireworks are illegal.

Sunset Pass Designated Campsite within Orange Cliffs Unit NPS Land-based Backcountry Camping Dispersed camping is allowed throughout Glen Canyon's backcountry, with some restrictions. Dispersed camping is NOT allowed in the vicinity of developed recreation areas such as campgrounds, picnic areas, or trailheads. There are extra responsibilities and skills that are necessary for dispersed camping. Visit the Hiking page for more details on backcountry trip planning. Leave No Trace Make every attempt to leave the backcountry nicer than you found it. “Take only pictures and leave only footprints” is a good reminder. Do not remove anything from the canyon. Leave the flowers, rocks and everything else for others to enjoy. If you are going to an area where others have camped before, pick a site that has been used before. The best sites are found, not made. Camp on bare soil if possible, to avoid damage or killing plants and grass. Dispersed camping means no services (such as trash removal) and little or no facilities (such as tables and fire pits) are provided. You must be self-contained and self-sufficient. Carry out all litter and garbage, including soild pet waste. Follow the principles of Leave No Trace . Human Waste Disposal All human body waste solids shall be contained and carried out using a portable toilet or a specifically engineered bag waste containment system. Use of a plastic or paper bag as a receptacle for solid human waste and/or for disposal of solid human waste is prohibited unless part of a specifically engineered bag waste containment system containing enzymes and polymers to treat human solid waste, capable of being sealed securely and state approved for disposal in ordinary trash receptacles. Visitors are responsible for providing their own removal system that is adequate for the size of their group and length of stay. Packing out human waste is required in Coyote Gulch, within 1/4 mile of the shore of Lake Powell, the San Juan River, Escalante River, Dirty Devil River or the Colorado River, and anywhere else the minimum 300 feet from a water source cannot be attained. Read more details about proper waste disposal in the Superintendent's Compendium. Group Size Limits When camping 100 feet or more from Lake Powell's shoreline, and outside designated campgrounds, group size for hiking and/or camping should not exceed 12 people and 3 vehicles. Groups greater than 12 people shall split into groups of 12 or fewer, and camp at least 1/2 mile apart. Backcountry Permits Backcountry permits are required for all overnight stays in the Escalante District of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Obtain permits at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center in the town of Escalante or at one of the entry trailheads. Day use does not require a backcountry permit, but please sign the trail register. Backcountry camping in the Orange Cliffs area of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area requires a permit from Canyonlands National Park .

The upper loop of the Lees Ferry campground will be closed to all visitors for renovations. Do not enter construction area. The lower loop is open. Check our Alerts for updated information.

928 608-6200 The phone is not monitored when the building is closed. If you are having an emergency, call 911 or hail National Park Service on Marine Band 16.