Colorado National Monument ⓘ

When John Otto first saw the rugged red rock canyons south of Grand Junction in 1906, he felt an instant connection with the spectacular landscape. The following year, he wrote:"I came here last year and found these canyons, and they feel like the heart of the world to me. I'm going to stay and build trails and promote this place, because it should be a national park." With that goal in mind, John Otto began promoting the idea of a national monument. He started fundraising campaigns and took people on tours of the proposed monument. Presidents Roosevelt and Taft received invitations from John Otto, but they did not travel to Colorado to see the canyons. Not to be discouraged, Otto continued writing letters and eventually President Taft did come for a visit during the peach festival in 1909. A year later, Otto wrote back to President Taft, beginning with “My dear President- Almost a year has passed since you visited our valley. Perhaps you remember the Peach Queen.” He included another request in his letter for President Taft to designate the monument as a national park, and ended the letter “John Otto, Trail Builder and Guide.” Other supporters joined Otto in his efforts and deluged Washington politicians with letters of support. On May 24, 1911, President Taft signed the proclamation that established Colorado National Monument.

Afterwards, John Otto became the monument’s first superintendent, earning a salary of $1.00 a month. This salary would amount to approximately $33.00 per month in 2022. He lived alone in the canyons in a tent with his horse and burros for most of the year, building trails by hand. As work progressed, he moved his camp. Otto named the rock formations he encountered after important people and historical events in American history. He preferred to give patriotic names to the formations, saying: “At the beginning of my work it was agreed to name everything out of United States history as much as possible, leaving out Biblical, foreign, and fictitious names.” Some of the formations, such as Independence Monument and Liberty Cap, are still known by the names given by John Otto. Gradually, through his single-minded pursuit and hard physical labor, he completed trails to make the scenic beauty of the canyons more accessible to the public.

During his efforts to build trails in the monument, John Otto and Beatrice Farnham were married. Otto was not clear on how they met, but he wrote enthusiastic letters about their engagement to the newspapers. "The other day "my partner" arrived, Miss Beatrice Farnham, artist, trail girl of the Southwest. I sincerely believe I have pursued my labors honorably over here in these hills and, now as there are two, we assure the Sentinel, that work will be continued on the same basis." As an engagement present, John gifted Beatrice a burro named Foxy. “While I can’t wear it, it will come in handy carrying my paint boxes and other paraphernalia of the trail.” Beatrice was an accomplished artist, both with painting and as an interior decorator. She had a contract to refurbish several rooms at the LaCourt Hotel in Grand Junction, an elegant hotel and social center that closed in 1967. The couple married on June 20 at the base of Independence Monument. Beatrice said “We are not trying to make its (sic) picturesque, but simply to coincide with our own principles which prefer the open canon to the stained glass churches as the scene for our ceremony.” John Otto had opinions on the institution of marriage, saying “I don’t believe in the modern form of marriage. It isn’t formed on common sense. I am doing it, not because I believe in the modern marriage system, but because I believe in obeying the law of the land, no matter what it is.” He went on to say, “Marriage can only be founded on love, and it’s silly to try and read into the ceremony to ‘honor and obey.’ I never heard of a woman obeying- her husband, anyway- and what is the use of making them lie every time they stand up before a minister. If the present marriage system was right, we wouldn’t have all these divorces.” Instead of including obey in their vows, the couple stated that they would “love, honor, and cherish” each other. Before the ceremony, the couple and their guests had a wedding meal of tomato soup, roasted chicken, salads, breads, boiled tongue, coffee, and lemonade. They held the ceremony in a circle of roped evergreens and sunflowers, with “truth, honor, love, and justice” written at each directional point.

John Otto retired after 16 years as the park's superintendent, and in 1932 left the Grand Valley. He headed west and made a new home in an old Post Office building in Yreka, California. He painted the small building red, white, and blue. There, he made a living panning for gold on the Klamath River and working in a mine near his home. His neighbors described Otto as well-groomed and saw him as eccentric, but harmless. John Otto died on June 19, 1952 at the age of 81 of a massive coronary. He had clothing, tools, $44 dollars in cash, and four $25 dollar war bonds at the time of his death. Without the money to pay for a proper headstone, he was buried in a pauper's grave in the Evergreen Cemetery in Yreka. Girdner Funeral Chapel waived their normal fees to give John Otto a respectable funeral. The John Otto Memorial Headstone Project was started by a group of volunteers from Grand Junction, who wanted Otto to have a fitting memorial for his gravesite. After raising funds for the headstone, they held a ceremony in Yreka on June 19, 2002, the 50th anniversary of Otto's death.

When visiting Colorado National Monument, take the opportunity to enjoy the abundant bird life that surrounds you. Listen, you might hear the laughing call of a raven, the mellow whistle of a Say's phoebe, or the trill buzzing of a hummingbird 's wings. You might see a Gambel's quail scurry across a trail or witness a turkey vulture wobble on an air current high above. View an interactive bird checklist of Colorado National Monument with links to species profiles. The pinyon-juniper woodland that dominates most of this area provides an essential habitat for a wide diversity of birds. At least 54 breeding songbird species and nine breeding species of raptors have been identified in the monument. Several other species are known to pass through during migration and winter months. Recognizing the significance of this area, Colorado National Monument was designated as an important bird area (IBA) by the National Audubon Society and the American Bird Conservancy on May 10, 2000.

Birds can be challenging to identify and generate much curiosity. To aid the beginning birdwatcher, the Colorado National Monument Association bookstore offers a broad selection of books and a checklist of common park birds.

For more information on landbirds at Colorado National Monument, visit the Northern Colorado Plateau Network website. Below are a few sample species that can be found in habitats across the monument at various times of the year. Note that habitats blend into each other, and birds can be found in many places other than their typical habitat. Please be respectful of wildlife and do not approach any bird in the monument. Instead, consider participating in community science initiatives, many of which use free mobile apps.

Vegetation on the monument and surrounding lands consists primarily of the pinyon-juniper woodland, grassland, and upland shrub communities typical of the Colorado Plateau . Pinyon-juniper woodland densely covers the higher elevations above the cliffs, and sparsely covers canyon sides. Thick stands of Gambel oak are found in the upper reaches of some drainages. Woodland trees are usually less than 20–30 feet (6–9 m) tall.

Open areas dominated by big sagebrush , rabbitbrush , and greasewood are scattered in canyon bottoms. Other common shrubs include single-leaf ash , broom snakeweed , Utah serviceberry , yucca, Mormon tea , mountain mahogany , and cliffrose . Riparian plants common in canyon bottoms and other areas include coyote willow, horsetail, Rocky Mountain willow, western river birch, and several orchids.

Exotic invasive species are primarily found along park roads, heavily used trails, and the urban interface along the eastern boundary.

The park flora includes more than 66 families, 250 genera, and 450 species. A vegetation map is available.

At the bottom of this page, you can search the species list for the monument. For more information on vegetation at Colorado National Monument, visit the Northern Colorado Plateau Network website.

Colorado National Monument's varied terrain attracts many animals to live, nest, or hunt within its boundaries. Among mammals , the mule deer are the largest commonly sighted by visitors. However, coyotes, mountain lions, and desert bighorn sheep are also occasionally seen. Smaller mammals, like grey foxes, desert cottontails, rock squirrels, and Hopi chipmunks, are often seen scampering off the sides of the Rim Rock Drive or hiking trails.

The towering canyon walls of the monument are a perfect place for raptors and songbirds to raise their young. Golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, and turkey vultures often soar aloft on the air currents; Gambel's quail and their clutch scurry across the trails; and the calls of the mourning dove and the canyon wren echo in the canyons. The various overlooks are excellent places to watch the acrobatics of the white-throated swift and violet-green swallow just below the rim. Bright blue pinyon jays are a common and colorful sight throughout the monument.

Following summer thunderstorms, listen for calls of frogs or toads in the canyons. Several species of amphibians thrive in the monument’s semiarid environment. Their ability to burrow underground and remain dormant for brief or extended periods of time gives them a high tolerance to temperature extremes and drought. Following heavy rains, several species, like the red-spotted toad or the canyon tree frog, surface to take advantage of seasonal water sources. As most species are primarily nocturnal and well camouflaged, they are rarely seen, but if you listen, you may hear them calling late in the evening.

To many, the most outstanding natural features of Colorado National Monument are the park's geological formations . In each of the canyons, visitors can see the remarkable effects of millions of years of erosion on a landscape of sedimentary rock. Many trails also wander through the pinyon-juniper woodland , where you'll encounter the monument's various tree species and other plants . Two unusual natural features are common in Colorado National Monument and intrigue both scientists and visitors: biological soil crusts and potholes .

Have you noticed the bumpy, knobby, and sometimes dark soil along the trails? That’s biological soil crust! Just like a coral reef is formed over time by lots of small organisms living together, soil crust is formed the same way. Moss, lichen, green algae, cyanobacteria (sigh-AN-oh bacteria), and microfungi all work together to hold sand grains in place and create an environment where seeds can grow. Biological soil crust is extremely slow growing; a single footprint can erase decades of growth. You can help protect biological soil crust by staying on established trails. Don’t bust the crust! Biological soil crust has gone by many names: cryptogamic soil crust, cryptobiotic soil crust, microbiotic soil crust... The main point is to remember that there's life in these sandy desert soils! Without the growth of these living crusts, the dirt would blow away and there'd be many fewer plants and animals living here.

By far, the most frequently asked-about mammal in the monument is the desert bighorn sheep . Most of the mammals that live in Colorado National Monument on a year-round basis have evolved unique physical and behavioral adaptations to survive in this semiarid ecosystem. Annual precipitation at Colorado National Monument is less than 12 inches a year with summer temperatures ranging from the high 90s to over 110 degrees in the canyons. Winters are generally mild with lows occasionally dropping to the single digits. These extremes, combined with a minimal amount of water, can prove to be challenging to wildlife.

A majority of mammals like the desert cottontail, mule deer, coyote, porcupine, black-tailed jackrabbit, and many songbird species are crepuscular, meaning they are only active in the early morning hours or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler and there is just enough light to forage for food. Others, like the ringtail, fox, bobcat, mountian lion, several species of bats, and a variety of small desert rodents, are nocturnal (emerging at night) and are rarely seen. Check out some tips for watching wildlife in national parks.

Mammals like rock squirrels, antelope squirrels, and Hopi chipmunks are active during the daytime or "diurnal" and are a common sight. Of course, there is the occasional rare and exciting report of a mountain lion wandering in one of the canyons or, as was the case in the summer of 1997, a black bear sleeping in Window Rock!

Over 40 species of mammals have been recorded within the boundaries of the monument; however, not all are year-round residents. The desert bighorn sheep are frequently seen near the Balanced Rock area on the west side of the park. Elk have also been known to travel down to the monument from the higher elevations during the winter months.

(Canis latrans) – These medium-sized members of the canid family are commonplace in the American West. Coyotes average about 15 inches in height (at the shoulder) and range from 15 to 44 lbs in weight. They are primarily nocturnal, but they can sometimes be spotted roaming in daytime. As an omnivore, they will eat almost anything, but small rodents and rabbits typically comprise the bulk of their diets. Coyotes breed in the winter and typically give birth to 4 to 7 pups in early spring. This inquisitive and opportunistic animal is the best runner of the canids, reaching speeds up to 30 miles per hour. They are able to leap up to 14 feet in a single bound.

(Urocyon cinereoargenteus) – The grey fox ranges through most of the southern half of North America. These small members of the canid family resemble small dogs with bushy tails. Grey foxes are solitary hunters and eat a wide variety of food, including rabbits, voles, mice, and birds; they also supplement their diets with fruits when they are available. Grey foxes are unique among canids in that they are able to climb trees. They have strong, hooked claws that allow them to scramble up trees to avoid predators or to get fruit. Grey foxes are nocturnal and den during the day in hollow trees, stumps, or old burrows.

(Bassariscus astutus) – This cat-sized carnivore resembles a small fox with a long raccoon-like tail. Its tail is typically as long as its body and is banded with 14 to 16 alternating black and white rings. Ringtails live in a variety of habitats, but have a preference for rocky areas, canyon walls, and talus slopes. They are expert climbers, capable of climbing vertical walls. Ringtails are nocturnal and spend most of the day asleep in dens, typically in rock crevices and hollows. They eat a wide variety of animals, including small mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and insects, but they also supplement their diets with fruit, including juniper berries, in winter.

(family Leporidae ) – Worldwide, there are almost 50 species of rabbits and hares, most of which are native to North America. At Colorado National Monument, desert cottontails (rabbits) and black-tailed jackrabbits (they are actually hares) are common. They are generally grazers, feeding on grasses and other plants, but they may also feed on twigs and tree bark. While these two groups of mammals are often confused, they are actually quite easy to identify. Rabbits are generally smaller and have relatively smaller ears. Hares have very large ears and long hind legs. Typically, rabbits are weak runners, and when threatened, they often scamper into thick brush. Hares, on the other hand, are more adapted to open country, are very strong runners, and usually burst into bounding runs when threatened. Both groups have high reproductive rates; their litters typically consist of up to eight young, and can be as large as 15.

Geology is the main reason Colorado National Monument was preserved. Here are canyon cliffs shaped across millions of years, and rock layers that span billions of years. Erosion continues to change this landscape of sandstone cliffs with each storm. The rock layers here connect many neighboring National Park Service units. The Precambrian rock layer in our canyon bottoms is on full display at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park . The smooth Entrada sandstone along Rimrock Drive is the main arch-forming layer at Arches National Park . The Morrison formation in our highlands also produces fossils at Dinosaur National Monument . The geology here connects stories from across the Colorado Plateau and the planet. The story of our local landscape is here, available for reading by those who choose to learn how to read it. The canyon walls are like a newsfeed, with the most recent posts at the top and older information as you scroll down. Like many websites, some of the links are broken or missing. The rock layers, even the missing ones, explain what this landscape was like across the eons. What story will the rocks tell in some distant future of our human time in this place? For more data-driven information about the Monument, check out our page in the Geodiversity Atlas . You'll find datasets, maps, reports, posters, and more.