Buffalo National River ⓘ

The cultural sequence of this region spans a wide range of time from the earliest occupation to the time of European settlement in the early nineteenth century. This sequence is divided into two areas: prehistoric and historic. The prehistoric period is divided into smaller periods: Paleoindian , Dalton , Archaic , Woodland , Mississippian , and Protohistoric or Contact . The historic period is divided into Exploration and Early Documentation , Indian Settlement/Resettlement 1700s - 1828, Early Settlement-Bottomland Farming (1828-1870), and Late Settlement Patterns (1870-1940).

Settlers in the Buffalo River area cultivated small fields to provide basic necessities for family and stock. Later, cash crops such as cotton were added. Numerous small communities developed, primarily after the Civil War. Timber and minerals were another resource to be exploited. The terrain made moving raw materials out and getting goods in difficult. Agriculture , Industry , and Transportation Community Development and Architecture

The Paleoindian Period is considered the earliest confirmed period of human occupation in the Ozarks. Distinctive artifacts include fluted and unfluted lance-like points and a diverse toolkit of drills, gravers, burins, knives, and scrapers, most of which continue with little change into subsequent cultural periods. Most Paleoindian finds reported for Arkansas have been isolated surface discoveries. No sites dating to this period have been excavated, but Paleoindian artifacts have been found in bluff shelters and open sites, especially along river terraces and older upland surfaces.

The Dalton Period is, in comparison with the Paleoindian Period, well known throughout the region. The distinctive Dalton point is the primary artifact of this archeological culture, but other tool types are known. Dalton sites have been found in a wide variety of settings from terraces along major rivers to uplands.

The Archaic period is defined by increasing diversity in tool types and a change in subsistence practices. A wide diversity in stone tools, both chipped and ground is a hallmark of the Archaic period. The mode of hafting of bifaces includes both stemmed and notched points. Grooved axes and celts appear for the first time. There are increasing quantities of tools associated with plant processing, such as grinding stones and pitted cobbles. Bluff shelters have been found to contain preserved organics in the form of twined fiber bags and sandals. Significantly, the first domesticates: squash and gourd appear near the end of the Archaic stage in anticipation of the increasing role of food production. Population increase may be inferred from the larger number of sites with Archaic materials, and from the evidence of larger individual site size and duration of occupation. In contrast with its surrounding areas, there is little evidence of interaction among archeological cultures of the Archaic Ozark.

The Woodland Period is defined by the presence of the first pottery, but otherwise is largely a continuation of trends already seen during the Archaic. Woodland people in the Ozarks do not appear to have participated in the construction and use of elaborate burial mounds with accompanying burial ceremonialism, nor is there much evidence of long-distance trade or exchange. Settlement does not appear to have changed much from earlier Archaic times.

The Mississippian Period had limited impact on the Ozarks region. Both east and west, Mississippian people built large fortified villages, temple mounds and cemeteries, and an elaborate material culture with distinctive shell-tempered and decorated pottery and small arrow points. Evidence of Mississippian culture in the Ozarks may represent seasonal visits for the acquisition of specific resources, including chert for chipped stone tools. It is entirely possible that, in the Ozarks, the basic cultural pattern remained essentially "Woodland" while in the large river basin areas to the west and east, the Mississippian culture took hold.

The Historic or Contact period marks the transition from a strictly archeological record to one augmented by ethnographic, ethnohistoric, and historic records. The archeology of this period is very poorly known in the Ozarks. Until the advent of Euroamerican culture was felt here, there would be little to distinguish a protohistoric site from an earlier one. Typically, observations made by the first visitors are used to establish a baseline and to project back in time the locations and characteristics of native societies. At contact, which officially begins with the Spanish entrada in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and struggles on with the early French and American records of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the Osage appear to have been the major social entity of northern Arkansas and southern Missouri. Later, and well into the Historic period, the Cherokee, Delaware, and Shawnee make their presence known as pressure for relocation mounts. In terms of material culture, items associated with this period include metal objects, glass trade beads, and other items of Euroamerican manufacture.

There is very little information regarding the interface between prehistory and history for the Buffalo River. The entradas by the Spaniard de Soto in 1541 to 1543 passed well to the south. Similarly, the records left by the French Jesuits follow the major arteries of transportation and communication along the major rivers including the Mississippi and Arkansas, but did not venture up the Buffalo or White. Although surrounding areas had gradually become known during the prior century, it was not really until the early nineteenth century that the Buffalo region entered the historical record to any great extent. There are no known sites from this period on the Buffalo.

The theme of Indian settlement and resettlement embraces the Indian influence prior to and in the early years of Anglo settlement. Indian groups included the Osage, Cherokee, and Shawnee, of which the Cherokee had the greatest impact on the area, although their major settlement was south of the Buffalo River area. The Osage primarily were based in Missouri. Schoolcraft's journey through the Ozarks (1818-1819) noted Osage hunting parties in the Buffalo River area and noted that white settlers preferred to avoid the area when the Osage were in residence. The Osage were removed from the area after treaties in 1808 and 1818. The Cherokee first entered the Arkansas area (south of Buffalo River) by 1800. In 1808 a portion of the Cherokee nation petitioned for land and in 1817 was granted a portion of the former Osage lands, including all of the Buffalo River watershed. A treaty of 1828 rescinded the 1817 treaty and exchanged the Arkansas lands for land in Indian Territory. The Cherokee left over a period of time, but oral history indicates that they may have returned periodically to the river. The strongest legacy of the Cherokee seems to be in the bloodlines of the early Buffalo River settlers, many of whom apparently entered into Anglo/Cherokee marriages. Cherokee use of Anglicized names has made it difficult to decipher ethnic lines from the written records of the Buffalo; however, having Indian blood is now considered a positive aspect by Buffalo River descendants and thus references to Indian blood have begun resurfacing in oral histories. Groups of Shawnee are said to have lived in the Buffalo River area during the time of the Cherokee. Yellville, the Marion County seat, was known as "Shawneetown" prior to 1830s.

The first settlers to the Buffalo River chose land situated on fertile bottomland fields. Small fields were cultivated to provide basic necessities for family and stock. Usually a nearby water source was a prerequisite to settlement. Settlement along the Buffalo River watershed began in the late 1820s. Legal ownership of the land was not possible until after the federal survey had been completed. Surveys in the Buffalo River watershed began in 1829 and continued through subdivision surveys of 1845. (A series of resurveys were done in the 1930s for several townships in the White River area). The field notes and drawings of the federal surveyors reinforce the settlement patterns along the waterways. The notes also gave information on vegetation, natural features, settler names, roads, and significant structures as well as identifying waterways by name. The field notes are a valuable source for re-creating the historic scene of the Buffalo River area from 1829-1845. Many early settlers did not purchase their farms when the land became available at public sale. Most of the land purchases in the Ozarks date from the later Homestead period. Much of the history of the people who first settled along the Buffalo is known only from oral history or is simply lost. For some, like the Cecil family, their name endures as a natural landmark - Cecil Creek. The early settlement period extended until the Civil War. Following the Civil War the Homestead Act was used increasingly to claim land. The farms of this early period are found on the choicest sections of Buffalo River and tributary land. Although perhaps divided up and later transferred, their history can be traced with the help of the General Land Office notes and oral history. According to the drawings of the federal surveyor, 57 field areas were located along the Buffalo River or its tributaries between 1829 and 1845. Using only the records of the federal surveyor, it can be concluded that these areas of the Buffalo had the greatest settlement in this early period: Big Creek (lower river); Rush; Calf Creek; Richland; Mt. Hersey; Erbie; Centerpoint area; Boxley. All of these sections had at least three, some as high as eight cultivated areas shown.

Milling of grains was the first commercial enterprise along the Buffalo. The earliest settlers had to take grain to the older town centers, like Yellville or Carrollton. According to one early settler, corn was the only grain raised during this period as there was no place yet to grind wheat. Mills were established fairly early in the settlement history of the Buffalo. In most cases, where the mills were established, town centers later grew. One of the earliest mills was Peter Beller's, near present Dogpatch, to which the Parkers of the Parker-Hickman farm probably took their grains. David Williams established a mill at what came to be called Mt. Hersey. Williams Mill appeared on the federal surveyor's map for 1843. Undoubtedly, these mills had been there for several years before the surveyor's visit.

These early mills and others like them ground both corn and wheat, several on into the twentieth century. But by the twentieth century it was cheaper to go to Harrison (Valley Springs actually) to buy wheat flour, and gradually the grinding of wheat was replaced by only the grinding of corn. A family member would hoist sacks of corn on a horse or mule and ride to the mill to have it ground into meal for the family as needed. The visits to the mill became a social occasion in themselves, as neighbors waited their turn.

Mills operated in the Buffalo River area on up until the 1930s; the Boxley Mill was in operation until about 1950. Later, portable gas-powered mills could be set up to grind grain; the water-powered mills became a thing of the past. Sometimes, a sawmill would be set up near the mill site. Later, stores joined the center, and in a few communities, a cotton gin after the 1880s. The history of milling along the Buffalo River has never been adequately explored.

Cotton became "king" in the Buffalo River valley after the Civil War, sometime in the 1870s. Cotton was first recorded on the 1880 agricultural census for the area. From the 1880s to 1920s, cotton became the cash crop for the Buffalo River farmer.

Cotton gins were set up in the community centers. Gilbert had a gin at one time, conveniently located near the railhead. Gins could be found in smaller towns, such as Mt. Hersey. A large barn remaining in Richland Valley was built originally as a cotton gin. Richland Valley was one of the most fertile areas for growing anything; cotton was no exception, and the Richland Valley farmers prospered, as the remains of their residences and barns indicate. Cotton began to lose out in the 1930s. Now grasses and cattle dominate the old fields.

Sawmills were an early feature along the Buffalo, but were usually associated with a grist mill or a community center. During the later part of the twentieth century more portable sawmills were common, being set up near the wood source or the building source. This makes it difficult to trace all the sawmill locations. For example, the Rush Valley had at least eight to ten sawmill locations during its heyday. In the twentieth century the gasoline-powered sawmill equipment made it even easier to tote the mill to the source, utilized the available timber and then move on.

Many an area young man made his first wages helping with the timbering or sawmill operation. Beginning in the 1880s, timber contracts were purchased along the overlooked ridgetop lands of the Buffalo. Threes were cut and slid down to the river for floating to the sawmill or railhead. Other loads went out by wagon. Stave mills were another timber use. At the stave mill the timber was sliced into staves for barrels and then transported to manufacturers.

Logging became a big commercial venture along the Buffalo from the 1880s to the 1930s and continues to today in some areas. It is appropriate that historic sites relative to this industry be recognized in the Buffalo National River.

The mining days along the Buffalo began in the early 1880s and eventually attracted national attention to the area. Rush was the site of the initial discovery of zinc ore and from development at Rush, mining ventures stretched out across the northwest Arkansas area. The White River steamboats, the stage lines, and later the new railroad lines shared in bringing the outside world to the mineral "belt."

Rush was the oldest and most stable mining area of the Buffalo, indeed, of the greater mineral district, and survived economic fortunes up to World War II when mining effectively ceased. A permanent community was clustered at Rush which reached a population of several thousand during World War I.

Wherever the terrain seemed possible for ore, mining ventures were started, and thus mines and diggings can be found up and down the Buffalo. Outside of Rush, the more successful were at Cow Creek, Cedar Creek, Maumee, Panther Creek, Mt. Hersey, and the Ponca and Boxley area. The mines in the lower river contained only zinc ore, while the upper river mines had galena associated with the zinc. The Ponca mines were particularly known for lead.

During the mining period (1880 to 1940) Buffalo River residents experienced some economic improvement through providing supplies necessary for the mining enterprise, in wages paid to local workers who participated in the mining, and in the construction and transportation facilities necessary for the mining process. Mining revivals were attempted in the 1950 at Ponca and at Rush, but had little success.

Transportation at Buffalo River came in several phases and certainly played a significant part in linking the river with the outside world. The original mode was team and wagon. Even as late as the 1930s "freighters" were using team and wagon to haul lumber, ore, and cotton to railheads. Stories abound in oral history about a man's teams and his prowess with them.

The river became a significant transportation mode in the later part of the nineteenth century before the advent of the railroad. Bales of cotton, even ore, were floated downriver on log barges to reach other transportation terminals. For the men accompanying the rafts the river became a road map of the families living along it. Spring rises and other high water events primed the river for successful floating. Later, the river was used to reach the railheads at Gilbert and Buffalo City.

The river also became an obstacle to be crossed by land traffic. Natural low water fords were known along its length and were utilized as necessary. Several road routes were significant enough that established ferries handled the transport of wagons, and later, mechanized vehicles, while shorter-lived ferries were established at several river communities. The established ferries lasted on into the twentieth century as Arkansas slowly developed its state highway system and constructed bridges across the Buffalo. The railroad was the most long-awaited coming of any transportation mode in the Ozarks. The Missouri and North Arkansas reached Harrison in 1901. The railroad had been enticed for a number of years: the mining fields tried many schemes to convince railroad companies to build. The M&NA railroad reached Gilbert in 1902 and the Iron Mountain reached Buffalo City in 1903. Both Gilbert and Buffalo City became hubs of commerce as Buffalo River products were shipped out of those depots to the rest of the nation. Gilbert probably is more well-known in oral tradition as its central river location affected a greater number of Buffalo River residents.

After the Civil War community centers began to dot the Buffalo. Many centers arose because a mill or store was established; later, particularly in the late-nineteenth to early twentieth-centuries, post offices were established in many of these stores and the name selected for the post office station would become the name of the wider community area. Around the early businesses other enterprises and some residences began to gather.

Most community centers served a local population. But some became known area-wide. During the mining days of the late-nineteenth century, towns like Rush and Ponca saw the influx of workers and businesses from other areas. Probably the most outstanding example was Gilbert, created in the early twentieth-century with the arrival of the Missouri and North Arkansas railroad to the region and the establishment of a railhead on the Buffalo. Gilbert became a hub for Buffalo River traffic, as cotton, logs, and ore were taken to the center from both up and down river.

As the twentieth century expanded the world of the Buffalo River resident, people began to utilize the larger area centers, like Harrison, Yellville, and Marshall. The arrival of the state highway system in the 1920s and the erection of bridges over the Buffalo River made it easier for river residents to travel to the county centers and to unite with one another.

Although the population of these community centers remained small, they represented a wider rural area of loyalty. Thus the population center represents an area of several square miles rather than the immediate center itself. The community areas became geographical locators for area geography. Many of the names have remained as access point names for Buffalo National River. Most other have a few remnants of foundations and walls hidden in the undergrowth. Only a few, such as Boxley Valley retain any real sense of the community center. The dying process of these communities began with the closure of the post offices in the 1950s, consolidation of schools, and the loss of the resident population to the bigger centers. Stores, mills, schools, churches, residences, sawmills, all comprised community areas during different periods of its existence.

Schools were considered important by the early settlers. An account of the life of Solomon Cecil, a settler of the 1830s along the Buffalo noted that "In a few years, however, a school teacher moved into the settlement and opened a school in a house which was vacated by on e of the neighbors." The records of early schools are few and limited to memories passed down by oral history. The earliest schools, apparently, were subscription schools, for which each family paid a set fee. For example, when William Love (present Erbie area) died in 1867, one of the creditors against his estate was the school commissioner. School fees continued even after the public school system was established in Arkansas, because obtaining money sufficient to support the schools continued to be a problem.

The early school buildings were made of logs - as the early homes - erected by the neighboring families who would be using the building. It was said that fireplaces served as the heat source in the earliest buildings, later replaced by wood stoves.

By the 1880s the schools had been divided into districts as area population increased. Assessments were made by the county from the families served by a particular school district. Frame buildings began to replace the log buildings. These buildings usually had a door on the gable end, several windows, and a bell tower. Some buildings had separate entrances for boys and girls. Persons interviewed about early schools did not remember any structure used as an outhouse - boys and girls each had their own "place in the bushes".

Frequently, the same building served both as school and church, and as a center for community doings. In 1948 many of the small school districts were consolidated and children began attending schools in the larger town centers.

Like schools, churches were established early in the settlement history of Buffalo River. Families of similar persuasion met together in member homes until a permanent building could be erected. The Methodists and the Baptists appear to have been among the earliest groups to establish church homes in the Buffalo River area. Later, Cumberland Presbyterians and other Protestant sects sent missionaries to the hills to get churches started. Churches and schools often used the same building. Sometimes, different religious groups shared the same building. The churches of the Buffalo River area are plain from buildings, unadorned by elaborate trim. In some areas where there no permanent church building (Rush for instance) traveling preachers came to "brush arbor" meetings held outdoors.

Church served both as a religious center and as a social center for the community. Many a courtship was carried on as part of church activities. Birth, marriage, and death centered about church functions. "Dinner-on-the-ground" was a frequent getting-together of the church community; the function continues today along the river.

Architecture along the Buffalo varies from the log structure to carpenter-built frame houses worthy of any prosperous family of the area. For early settlers, and for new settlers of periods as late as the twentieth century, log house were the accepted dwellings, able to be built from native resources with little expense except a few good tools and the knowledge of the builder. The rich folks, said one former resident, had the "painted houses." Later, many of the log homes were encased by frame shells and became the inner framework of a larger home which from all indications was not a frame one, although design features such as the closed-in dogtrot style continued to give it away as a former log home. Other log homes were torn down completely and replaced with frame house. More recently, the early frame houses have been replaced by "ranch-style" homes or trailers. After World War II the vacation homes of outsiders began to enter the Buffalo River area: for some, merely a crude frame cabin was sufficient; for others, the structure was meant to be a retirement home and more urban design went into the construction.

The houses and buildings of the Buffalo vary in quality in design, (as in any area). There were log homes of superb construction and those put up in a day's time to be a shelter. There are uninteresting farm houses as there are the elaborate houses of the more prosperous farmers. There are houses with additions - some shed types of inferior design, but others of carefully crafted workmanship. Trim varied from roughcut sawmill lumber to moulded strips.

Many houses were abandoned as the population of the area dropped after the 1930s. Unoccupied houses were converted to hay storage or farm buildings. Of those living houses which stood when land acquisition began for Buffalo River, only a small percentage remain, the survivors of contract bids, ill-advised survey reports, and deteriorating safety hazards. Among these survivors are a few good examples of the variety of architecture and living styles which once were a part of the Buffalo.

Other types of buildings also remain along the Buffalo. The majority of these are farm buildings, the typical outbuildings necessary to any farm operation. For the most part, these are log and frame barns, smokehouses, and corn cribs. Many old log buildings were converted into barns as new houses were built, so that many Ozark barns have a log core which is far older than the converted structure itself. Most of these buildings, if supported by any foundation at all, are supported by a native rock foundation in a height necessary to level the buildings to the uneven Ozark terrain.

Commercial buildings are also found along the river. These include general stores with false fronts, grist mills, sawmills, and mining facilities.

The initial construction style along the Buffalo was log buildings on native rock foundations. It seems probable that the earliest of these dwellings were traditional one-room structures - one and one-half story - to which a later lean-to may have been added. Other log structures employed the double pen configuration with open hallway (or "dogtrot"). Certain portions of the river may have had one style more dominant than others, possibly based on later origin-of-birth distribution of the settlers.

Log construction continued being used for outbuildings and dwellings through the years. During the last major migration to the Ozarks in the late 1800s to early 1900s, single-room log homes were the initial homes for these last homesteaders. During the mid-twentieth century and later, recreational homes and homes of the new emigrants frequently were made of logs. For the new emigrants this seemed to be a return to traditional ways from which they had been separated, while the long-term settlers were ready to progress to modern dwellings, even trailers.

As log buildings were replaced with frame structures, the old log structures were reused as functional outbuildings. The most common use was the conversion of an old log house into the central core structure of a new barn. This tradition of reuse continues along the Buffalo, as the old frame houses have been converted into hay storage for late twentieth-century farmers.

Frame buildings were the desirable progression of living space for Buffalo River settlers. Frame buildings probably began to be erected as soon as there was a sawmill at hand to obtain the lumber. The majority of frame buildings along the Buffalo date from the turn of the twentieth century; however, Richland Valley contains large frame houses dating to the post-Civil War period and reflecting the agricultural wealth of the valley. Likewise, homes in the Boxley Valley date from the late nineteenth-century period; however, many of these dwellings follow another common Buffalo River pattern: log houses encased in new framing, so that from exterior appearances the dwelling is now a frame building. The true totally frame houses appear to date from about 1900 and on (with, of course, some notable exceptions).

Frame encasing of log homes probably began in the nineteenth-century, most likely after the Civil War period. The post-Civil War period also represents an entire building period, as so many of the pre-war buildings were totally destroyed during the guerrilla period. Quick shelter was needed, and simple log homes were erected, which were later replaced by frame houses.

The frame houses of the Buffalo show a variety of decorative features, and in many cases are the work of not the owner, but of a carpenter hired from away (as Harrison) to design and construct the building. This shows again the awareness of the Buffalo River resident to the trends and styles of the outside world and growing contact with that world.

The frame house style varies from simple board and batten structure with little internal framework support, to more elaborate buildings built on traditional framing designs and incorporating drop or clapboard siding, factory window and door framing and casements, even interior design trends as wainscoting, or exterior gable trim. Even frame houses, however, continued to be supported on native rock foundations; in the majority of cases, unmortared rock piers. Barns and other outbuildings were constructed of logs, plank architecture, or a combination of log and plank (incorporating old log structures or reusing logs from old structures). Frequently, a variety of outbuildings, some old log, some plank and log, and some new frame, completed the settler's collection of farm buildings. During the twentieth century new outbuildings replaced old. The "pole construction" building was popular, as was the "box building". Some mid-twentieth century barns reflect changing agricultural use such as the planting of grasses for hay and are more elaborate than the earlier barns. The larger barns are one and a half-story, the second story being a loft which connects under an overhanging roof to shed additions along the length of the main barn interior. These larger barns frequently were built so that a wagon could drive into the central portion.

Although Arkansas seceded from the union in May 1861, a Peace Society developed in the Ozarks in early 1862. The Civil War around the Buffalo River was absent of large scale military maneuvers or battles. It was more consumed with jay hawking, terrorism, and guerilla tactics. This left in its wake a civilian culture that had been ripped to shreds by the stresses of murder, rape, and thievery. The strain of war also turned neighbor against neighbor in the name of survival. Read about some of these raids below.

General Sanborn ordered the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry into the Buffalo River region to capture Confederates Cooper, Cecil, and other Rebels. The actual battle or skirmish may have taken place at the mouth of Edgmon Creek near the Arvel Casey Farm on up to mill pond and springs. The 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry’s actual route to or from Whiteley’s Springs is unknown.

I have the honor to report that on the 5 th instant, a scout of this regiment numbering 50 men, under Captain Orr, Company C, and Lieutenant Bell, Company I, attacked the enemy under Sissell, Cooper, Paton, and not unlikely Green, all chiefs of guerilla bands, concentrated to the number of 250 men at Whiteley’s Mills, on the headwaters of the Buffalo River. The enemy had been warned of the approach of Captain Orr, and had formed to receive him. They were partly mounted and partly dismounted. Captain Orr dashed into their camp and twice broke their line of cavalry. After a fire of musketry of about two hours’ duration, the ammunition being nearly exhausted, Captain Orr withdrew, with the loss of Privates John H. Murry, Company F, killed, and Obed W. Patty, Company I, missing. [OR Series I vol. XXXIV, Pt 1, pp. 871]

Union commanders learned that Confederate forces southwest of Yellville across the Buffalo River were not as strong as they had initially thought. The only reason the Rebel groups moved toward Yellville was that they heard that Union troops had abandoned that location. General Sanborn learned Confederate forces returned north into the Boston Mountains after unsuccessful attempts to cross the Arkansas River. The Buffalo River was especially thick with Rebel bands, and Federal troops expected significant success in killing and capturing them, though Rebel guerillas remained a problem.

As Rebel bands gathered in northwest Arkansas, the Union commander notified Sanborn that he would attack them soon, but wished Sanborn could lend any help possible. By mid-April, the tide of the war turned slightly in favor of the Confederates in the Arkansas-Red River theaters, as Union forces retreated down the Red River and back to Little Rock. Union troops from Yellville moved back into the Buffalo River Valley for probably two reasons: 1) obtainable forage and, 2) seek out and destroy Rebel bands scouted since the late March encounters. Major Melton, 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry at Rolling Prairie summarized the country as “a nest and nursery of bushwhackers and lawless marauders.” His view of the area citizenry followed two lines: the southern sympathizers, were tepid, boastful, treasonous, passive, deceitful, treacherous, especially the women. These people assisted Rebels when possible, yet were not above playing up to Union authorities to escape harm or gain favor. He claimed that family ties played a significant role in area behavior and attitudes. The other group, loyal Union people, were safe only when near Federal troops.

The April 13-14 skirmishes on Richland Creek once again involved Capt. Love, whom Sanborn had ordered wiped out in early January. Col. John Phelps to General Sanborn:

Captain Turner, Sixth Missouri State Militia, at the above date [April 13-14, 1864] arrived at Yellville from a reconnaissance on Richland. The 13 th instant he had attacked a camp of 63 rebels and routed them completely; one Captain Watkins and 4 others were killed, several were wounded, 1 made prisoner.

The next day two or three of the guerrilla bands gathered together to the number of 100 or more, under Captains Love and Cordelle. Captain Turner followed them up and attacked their advance. In the engagement Cordelle was killed, and 2 others wounded. [OR Series I vol. XXXIV, Pt 1, pp. 886-887]

Though many Rebels and their leaders were killed over the preceding four months, even Union commanders on the Arkansas River at Clarksville noted the guerilla problems in the Boston Mountains and Carroll and Newton Counties.

In mid-April Union commanders were informed of Rebel intentions to disrupt spring planting in Missouri, to upset the stability of Union sentiment and force in that state. General Rosecrans did not want to alarm citizens in those areas by moving in additional troops. As Major Melton pursued Cooper in King’s River and Osage, Col. Harrison at Fayetteville was very concerned over Confederate Col. Jackman being loose near Huntsville.

General Sanborn favored driving the rebels across the Arkansas River and then holding the river line strong enough to release troops north of the river for duty elsewhere. He hoped to retain troops in southern Missouri and northern Arkansas long enough to wipe out guerilla bands and raise home guards to police the areas. Otherwise, the only option was to destroy everything in northern Arkansas so that no one could live there.

As Capt. Turner skirmished on Richland Creek, Major Melton sought out these Rebel groups in the upper Buffalo River region. Rebel leader Cooper hit Federal supply lines in their rear on King’s River. Major Melton took off in pursuit but eventually had to report back to camp due to lack of rations, underscoring the acute forage and food situation.

Supply needs for the Buffalo River region’s Union troops were enormous. Union resources funneled east to Sherman at Chattanooga-Atlanta Campaign compounded supply problems in the region. Capt. Owen, Quartermaster for Sanborn, reported daily forage demands at Springfield as 13,000 pounds of grain, not including hay, and daily rations to Yellville and Rolling Prairie at 2,400 pounds. Problems mounted as animals and transportation equipment wore out and river transport was unreliable.

Col. Phelps, 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry, noted forage becoming exhausted, guerillas hiding in mountain hideouts assisted by friendly residents, Union people gone, animals dying, and rains swelling rivers making fords impassible. Phelps also noted the poor condition of his troops: less than half were operational due to miserable horses. Phelps suggested the possibility of moving all or part of his command to Buffalo City or nearby to forage and receive supplies. Thus, he would be at an old river station crossroads and be closer to Rebel forces south of the Buffalo River near Sylamore and Richwoods in Izard County. Phelps’ request could have made the mouth of the Buffalo River a major supply depot and regional headquarters for the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry.

By the end of April, Confederate officials called for all available supplies in Texas to be pushed into Arkansas and Louisiana, as Confederate forces pushed back Union advances. Rebel guerillas remained in northern Arkansas and Union cavalry continued to pursue them.

May was a pivotal month in Arkansas. Rebels gained a momentum as Federals fell back from Arkansas Valley and Red River due to defeats and the Federals fell back into southern Missouri due to forage problems in northern Arkansas. The Buffalo River region continued to experience Federal and Rebel presence and movements. May began with Rebels reported in the Huntsville area. However, on May 3 Rebels attacked and destroyed a Federal forage train on Richland Creek. Forage in north central Arkansas was an increasing problem since Federals arrived in January, but was worse in southern Missouri. General Sanborn noted that he had half his stock in Arkansas grazing and received his forage from Rolla, but also noted that the grass in southern Missouri was growing and provided some feed for horses.

The search for forage more than anything dictated the direction and objectives of Federal scouts. Richland Valley, noted for its agricultural bounty, once again lured Federals into an attack by opportune rebels. Following this attack, Federal troops began pulling back into the border region of Missouri.

The Official Records report that after crossing the Buffalo, the advanced guard, escort, and train-rearguard were separated when Jackman attacked down from Point Peter Mountain. The location of the advance guard, giving accounts from oral histories and James Johnston, seem to have been where the Point Peter-Snowball Road joins with the Richland Valley Road near Hall school and the cemetery. This point is about ¾ mile from the Campbell-Wasson ford where oral history claims that the Federal wagon train was burned. The Maddox account claims that the Federals moved up the valley from the main body about ¾ of a mile when they saw the Rebels coming down the mountain. If the advance guard was about ¾ mile ahead of the train on the other (east or south) side of Wasson Ford, then where was the escort? They may have been on the same side of Richland Creek as the advance guard, but a little north of Hall School, thus separated by the creek from the train and separated by distance from the advance guard and by the quickly advancing Jackman. The escort came under attack as well, but upon finding the advance guard wiped out, they escaped, leaving the wagon trains behind. The Maddox account claims that the Confederates, after destroying the train, went into camp at the mouth of Dry Branch, one mile up the Richland Valley. The junction of the Richland Valley and Snowball roads was about one mile from Dry Branch camp.

Jackman claimed to have spotted the Federal wagons from two and a half miles away from the top of Point Peter. Jackman either spotted the trains while he was rounding the old Point Peter Road near the mouth of Richland and the train was nearing Christy Ford, or Jackman was in Point Peter (the Snowball Road) watching the wagons crossing the Buffalo. The second choice is unlikely since he had to travel at least 12 miles to get to this point, while the Federals crossed the Buffalo in the morning of the same day.

What is significant is that Col. Phelps’ follow up attack on the 5 th ended when he could not pursue the enemy due to the bad conditions of his horses. This was no doubt true given other correspondence between Phelps and Col. Sanborn. In addition, Phelps marched all night (May 4) to attack Jackman on the morning of May 5.

General Sanborn pondered what to do with the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry. He suggested either moving the troops south of the Boston Mountains and reassigning them to the Department of Arkansas or keeping them north in Missouri. But, he mentioned that without this force he could not operate in northern Arkansas. Sanborn opted to pull his troops back to Cassville, Mo., Berryville, Ark., and Forsyth, Mo., where apparently, forage along the White River had improved with spring growth. Major Murphy at Yellville was ordered back to Cassville while Col. Phelps was advised to fall back on Berryville and Forsyth.

A point of importance in late April and throughout May concerned the advance of Rebels back into Arkansas with the retreat of Federals following the Red River defeat and near escape. On May 12, Governor Murphy of Arkansas wrote President Lincoln that with the retreat and defeat of Banks and Steele, Little Rock was threatened. Unless help came, “all will be lost.”

Indeed, Federals were retreating. The Batesville garrison was to evacuate to Jacksonport. The Federal commander cited forage reasons for the move, claiming that all north central Arkansas was exhausted of forage and no enemy could subsist there. Yet, General Sanborn notified Col. Phelps that some good grazing could be found on Huzzah and Sugar Loaf Prairies in Arkansas. Huzzah Prairie is just southeast of Harrison and Sugar Loaf is northeast of Harrison and northwest of Yellville. This is contradictory in that the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry had been stationed near there for four months and was compelled to move back north due to lack of forage. However, since the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry’s departure, green grass had apparently sprung up enough to provide some kind of sustenance. Sanborn cautioned Phelps to take his time in falling back to his new posts. He was to bring everything with him, driving out any abandoned stock ahead of him.

Sanborn cautioned Phelps to keep a strong lookout for Rebel groups coming north, since General Price followed up General Steele’s retreat to Little Rock. Rebel cavalry was likely to work its way north. Although Sanborn comments that no Rebel force could subsist in northern Arkansas, he ordered Phelps to put out scouts well to the south. Thus, the Buffalo River region likely remained under Federal eyes even though the high tide of Federal presence was subsiding.

In mid-May, Federal commanders noted that the northern two tiers of counties in Arkansas were rapidly depopulated and becoming “wilderness,” while refugees flocked north to inhabit southern Missouri counties. More than 3500 refugees from Marion and Searcy counties in Arkansas were reported crossing the White river at Forsyth in three or four days.

Confederates began besieging Union posts at Little Rock and Alexandria, Louisiana, but were limited by the lack of sufficient ammunition and forage. However, Rebel forces moved across the Arkansas River into the Boston Mountains with orders to fill up their ranks by calling in absentees, conscripting, and arresting deserters for mandatory service. General Price was to prepare for an invasion into Missouri, reinforced by Rebel troops in the Red River theater. Everyone between 16 and 50 years of age was forced into service. Unorganized guerilla bands were to be broken up and forced to consolidate. Union commanders expected the Rebels to move north as Col. Phelps captured Rebel orders and papers in his counterattack in Richland Valley on May 5.

Sanborn informed Col. Harrison in Fayetteville that at that moment (May 17) no large force of Rebels occupied north Arkansas. Sanborn suggested organizing home guards while time permitted. All the country “north of the Buffalo Fork is desolated.” Harrison informed Sanborn of an increase of Rebel guerillas east and south of Fayetteville. Lt. Col Cameron led a detachment to Richland Valley on May 17 th .

The camp of Lt. Col. Cameron on the night of May 17 was at Woolum, on the north side of the Buffalo River opposite Richland Creek. The locations of R.W. Robertson’s and Mrs. Hendrix houses are uncertain, but likely south of the cemetery. The trail followed by Cameron across the mountains and north of Point Peter to Calf Creek is likely the old Richland-Snowball road. The location of Widow Turney’s is near Snowball (Turney’s Mill). The route taken from Widow Turney’s to the Buffalo River is uncertain. Two routes are likely: 1) follow down the Calf Creek road to near the Buffalo River, or 2) angle to the northwest in order to check up on Captain Love’s farm before proceeding down the north side of the Buffalo River. The exact route along the “north side of the Buffalo” is uncertain, as is the route taken to Yellville across the Tomahawk Barrens, the location of which is unknown.

Cameron’s trip through Richland Valley, reportedly gained information that Col. Jackman was at the head of Richland Valley organizing and combining forces. This information likely came from loyal Union citizens who lived in the valley, or by jayhawking men anxious to have Union forces strike a blow at Rebel guerillas in their region of upper Richland. Cameron also learned that Rebels under Col. Freeman were gathering on the White River near Batesville.

He harassed a few bushwhackers while moving from Richland down the Buffalo River, then to Tomahawk Barrens and to Yellville. From Yellville he proceeded to Talbot’s Ferry and crossed the White River on his way back to Camp Cameron, somewhere along the Missouri-Arkansas border. He reported the presence of Jackman and others on the Richland headwaters in the Boston Mountains with several hundred men of different bands. He also noted Freeman moving up the White River near Batesville.

On May 24 th , Sanborn reported a Rebel force below Buffalo City on the White River. Thus, the Buffalo River region continued to harbor rebel bands and Union patrols. Lt. Col. Cameron probably did not encounter this group of Rebels forming in the hills.

On May 26 th , Major Melton claimed that Shelby with 2,000 men was on the Osage Branch of King’s River with artillery, and he was recruiting. Melton felt insecure at Berryville and had little reliable transportation. Sanborn doubted the number of Rebels but suggested that if Melton had to retreat, he should take all he could and burn the rest. Sanborn continued to claim no large Rebel force north of the Buffalo, while Rebel troops were forming between the Buffalo and the Arkansas in addition to 250 Rebels quietly moving in to Missouri per week. Rebel commanders were ordered to gather and form troops at all costs, and shoot those who fail to comply; desertions were to be tolerated no longer.

General Sanborn ordered the 2 nd Arkansas Cavalry to send out woman spies and scouts to ascertain the enemy’s whereabouts and information. On May 29, General Sanborn found out that Shelby was not on the Osage with 2,000 men as reported, nor was he north of the Boston Mountains. This suggests that either the Rebel commanders were not in the area recruiting yet, or, they were quiet about it. Sanborn also reported that Rebels (Jackman) were attempting and succeeding in getting groups north in small bodies which confirms that the Rebels were quietly moving north in hopes of assembly in Missouri through northeast and north-central Arkansas, towards Rolla. Thus, the month ended with Federal watching but not stopping small bands of Rebels moving into Missouri. In the end of May, Confederate leaders were to assemble their commands near Powhatan.Again, orders were given to conscript all able-bodied men. Major Pickler, Captains Rusk, Robinson, Roberts, and Johnson were to go and recruit in northwest Arkansas forcing all Rebel bands not attached to join Major Pickler. The area south of the White River and north of the Boston Mountains became a no-man’s-land, depopulated, mostly destitute of forage. Yet, Union scouts continued to probe the Buffalo Valley looking for signs of Rebel movement north

Throughout history, the waters of the Buffalo River Valley have supported agriculture, industry, and community. Boxley Grist Mill used the power of moving water to grind corn into meal and wheat into a flour, a service that was hard to come by in the rural Ozarks in the later 19 th century. The Boxley Mill was owned by three generations of the Villines Family and in operation from the 1870s until the 1950’s when a major flood washed out a large portion of the millrace. The Boxley Valley Historic District also includes the Villines cabins at the river near Ponca, AR . About 1850, William and Rebecca Villines established a farm near the Buffalo at what is now the junction of Hwy 43 & Hwy 74 near Ponca. An exhibit panel describes the farm. Their son James A., born in 1854, grew up to be known as “Beaver Jim”. His farmstead is just up the hill across the low water Ponca bridge. The cabin and a variety of outbuildings remain, built by Beaver Jim or added or changed by succeeding owners. For instance, Beaver Jim had a stone and log cellar as early as 1898 that was used to store fruits and vegetables. The concrete version in place today replaced his cellar. The concrete outhouse, built in the 1930s by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) replaced an earlier version.Exhibit panels describe the buildings and life on the farm.

In the Jasper area of the park, take time to visit The Parker-Hickman Farmstead . Take Hwy 7 north of Jasper and turn at the sign for Erbie. The farmstead is a self-guided tour of an Ozark farm occupied for more than 100 years by 9 different owners. This is possibly the oldest home here within Buffalo National River, built in the 1840s by Alvin and Elizabeth Park and Greenberry Parker who moved here from Tennessee. It is now known as the Parker-Hickman home, because the Parkers were the builders of the home and the Hickman’s were the final owners before the park. The house reflects the changes that took place in the Ozarks over the years. Electricity and telephone arrived to the area in the 1940’s. Walls and ceilings were paneled in the 1960’s. Several of the outbuildings were constructed after the Hickman’s bought this farm. The original outhouse was replaced in the 1930s by the Works Progress Administration (WPA). Mr. Hickman said it was the only government assistance they received during the Great Depression.The exhibit panel maps the farm layout.

Visit the "Ghost Town" of Rush near the Yellville/Buffalo Point area of the park. The Rush Historic District is a 1300-acre historic mining district that includes the buildings, structures, roadways, and mines of the Rush mining area, active from the 1880s to the 1930s. During World War I it was the largest producer of zinc ore in Arkansas. Rush was a community into the 1960s. Ruins and sites can be found throughout the district and contribute to a wider understanding of community layout, mining processes, and construction techniques. One of the ruins is the stone remains of the Hicks Property . Zinc was the only mineral actively mined. In 1985 the National Park Service restricted entrance to the mines because of concern over visitor safety. Steel mesh fencing and gates were erected around each accessible opening. Exhibit panels along the town trail provide a glimpse into the boom and bust life of a mining town. The Rush Valley trail map is available at the Buffalo Point Information station.

Click on the link below to check out the digital reconstruction of the Hicks property that The University of Arkansas has created. The Fay Jones School of Architecture and Design created an outstanding website outlining the history associated with the Hicks family property that was established in Rush Valley in 1903. This interactive website includes photos, historical documents, and audio clips related to the store, hotel, and livery that the Hicks family operated.

The Great Depression was in full swing by 1933. At that time, approximately a quarter of the working population was unemployed and natural disasters were causing woes for farmers and many people had lost their homes. By 1933 the country had a new president, Franklin D. Roosevelt, whose main focus was to bring economic relief to the public. As a result, he initiated federal programs that were developed to assist in the country's financial recovery.

As early as 1910 when he was appointed to the New York State committee on forests, fish and game, Roosevelt was concerned about the lack of policies for the development of land and water resources. In 1931as governor of New York, he proclaimed a Conservation Week in New York State to promote greater public awareness. Also while governor, Roosevelt worked for emergency legislation in an attempt to deal with growing unemployment in the state and set 10,000 unemployed people to work on reforestation. During the presidential campaign in 1932 Roosevelt presented the possibility of using a million men in forest work across the nation.

The Emergency Conservation Work (ECW) Act, which was presented to Congress on March 21, 1933. Roosevelt himself first called the program the "Civilian Conservation Corps" and it was popularly known as the CCC. The name was officially changed to the Civilian Conservation Corps on July 28, 1937. This Act proposed to put 300,000 unemployed young men to work in the forests. The bill establishing the ECW was passed by Congress on March 31, 1933. Roosevelt issued immediate orders for the CCC to begin; having 250,000 men in the camps by June was the goal.

As Franklin Roosevelt intended, the benefits of economic and employment relief provided by the CCC was equaled by its preservation and development of the state's natural resources.

A very successful program resulted in the planting of millions of trees, the construction of countless bridges, trails and permanent structures still in use today. In Arkansas alone, the CCC erected 446 buildings, constructed 6,400 miles of road, built eight dams, laid 250 miles of fence, erected 86 lookout towers in forests, planted 19,463,745 trees, and strung 8,600 miles of telephone line in addition to their work in the development of recreational facilities.

Buffalo Point State Park established by the State of Arkansas in March, 1938 had a resident CCC camp by May of that year. Plans were to build roadways, cabins and a pavilion at the park in an effort to promote recreational activities and make the area more accessible to the local population, as well as tourists.

The Rustic style of architecture was dominant in the structures built by CCC camps. The Rustic style is characterized by the effort to harmonize with the natural setting using local indigenous materials; in Arkansas, natural stone and timber particularly. The pavilions, lodges, cabins, and other buildings constructed by the CCC made use of natural looking designs and to blend the rustic work into the natural setting.

The structures at Buffalo Point were constructed between 1938 and 1945. The cabins were largely comprised of local stone, rough cut wood, and natural paint colors. The red rock, which is St. Joe limestone, was quarried from a site that can be seen today from the Indian Rockhouse hiking trail. This limestone was also used to construct native looking retaining walls, culverts and guardrails along the roadsides at Buffalo Point. In the end, a pavilion and the exteriors of six cabins and a lodge were finished by the CCC, but not all of the interiors were completed before the camp dissolved in 1942. World War II was underway by this time and all CCC camps were ordered to disband so that the country could focus on the war effort.

Arkansas State Parks completed and operated the cabins as rental units starting in 1942. Annual park visitation in the early 1950s was approximately 25,000 and the cabins were in high demand. Despite the fact that the state park added four more cabins to the park in the 1960s, a campground was becoming a necessity. The campground's 83 camp sites, in addition to tent and group sites were also built using natural features and native stone to enhance the park, much like the construction design of the rustic cabins. Buffalo National River was established in 1972 As a result, Buffalo Point State Park was absorbed into the National Park System as part of the national river. The cabins have been rehabilitated several times over the years and while maintenance repairs have been needed the rustic craftsmanship remains sturdy.

In 1988 the cabins were listed on the National Register of Historic Places due to the structures' historic and natural designs.

Over the years, visitation to Buffalo National River has increased to approximately 1.5 million visitors per year. Buffalo Point offers one of most popular campgrounds in the park, with most sites occupied throughout the entire summer. While the National Park Service has ownership over the CCC cabins, they are run by a concessionaire that still rents the cabins out to visitors. The hard work and skill of the CCC is appreciated and utilized 75 years later. For further infrormation contact the Buffalo Point Ranger Station at 870-449-4311.

Approximately 200 species of birds use the Buffalo National River for at least some part of the year. Nearly half of those species live here year round and can be seen frequently during canoe trips down the river. Great Blue Herons, Belted Kingfishers, and Wood Ducks are a common sight in almost any section of the river, and Bald Eagles are observed frequently during the winter, as they rest in trees on the ridge tops that overlook the river. Nearly 100 of the recorded species migrate to the oak-hickory forest that surround the river to build nests, lay eggs, and raise their young here during the summer. The unbroken tracts of forest attract other migrators to feed and rest during their spring and fall migrations between breeding grounds of northern U.S. and Canada and wintering grounds in Central and South America. Many of the birds found within the canopy of the forest are more likely to be heard than seen. The challenge of identifying these cryptic birds by only their song or call can be a rewarding experience and one easily found within the dense woods of Buffalo National River.

The richness and diversity of the mammal population within the Buffalo National River is a product of the complexity and range in habitats. Riparian habitats (lush shrubs and trees) found along the river's edge, rich green open-field environments, wooded hillsides and dry glades and rocky outcroppings are just a few of the unique habitats that provide a niche for the mammal species found within the park. The Buffalo National River is known to have more than 55 species of mammals. Three species of bats at Buffalo National River are listed as endangered (Indiana, Gray, and Ozark Big-Eared bats), one threatened (Northern Long-Eared bat), and one currently pending review for protection under the Endangered Species Act (Tri-Colored bat). These species are found within the karst cave networks located on the hillsides and valley draws. The Eastern Elk (Cervus elaphus canadensis) was native to the forest and forest-edge habitats of Arkansas. In 1981, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission implemented an Elk Restoration Project. Today, there are approximately 500 Rocky Mountain Elk that call the Buffalo River corridor home. While not native to Arkansas and the Buffalo National River, wild or feral hogs are here. Hunting is permitted in the park in accordance with state regulations. During the early fall through late spring, some form of hunting season is in progress. Use caution when hiking in the woods during this time.

This chart of campground amenities and fees is on the Fees & Passes page in a larger format. Buffalo National River maintains numerous campgrounds throughout the park. They range from primitive with just vault toilets, no water and no designated sites to developed with electric and water hook-ups for RV camping.

Upper District Upper Buffalo Wilderness to Carver The upper or western end of the park includes 5 campgrounds. Fees for sites in these developed campgrounds are $16 - $20 per site per night with 6 people permitted on each site. Camping fees are charged during the season (March 13, 2026 through November 16, 2026) when water is available. Camping fees are not charged November 17, 2025 through March 12, 2026 when flush restrooms and water systems are shutdown.

View of walk-in tent campsites at Steel Creek. NPS Steel Creek Campground Download a map of Steel Creek Campground GPS Coordinates : 36.0407758, -93.3440483 Steel Creek Campground is located approximately 3 miles east of Ponca, Arkansas, off Highway 74. The campground offers: 26 walk-in tent-only campsites Tent camping only. Camper trailers, motorhomes, RVs, and camper vans are not permitted. 14 drive-in horse campsites Each campsite is equipped with a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook. Season & Reservations Campground is open year-round. Reservations are required for all sites from mid-March through mid-November. All campsites are $20 per site, per night when reservations are required. Reservations must be made in advance through Recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777 between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m. (EST). Reservations can be made same day and up to 6 months in advance. Cell phone service is not reliable at Steel Creek so making a reservation before getting to the campground is strongly advised. There is no fee to camp primitively over the winter season and all sites are first-come, first-served during this time. All campers must sign in at one of the two registration stations upon arrival. At the station, open the metal clipboard and complete the registration form. Be sure to include your reservation confirmation number. Ame nities Water and flush restrooms are available during the operating season of mid-March through mid-November. Campsites accommodate 1 – 6 people per site. There are no shower facilities or hookups available within the campground. A vault toilet remains open during winter months with limited servicing. Please see the Steel Creek Campground page for more details and to make a reservation.

A tent site at Kyles Landing Campground. NPS Kyles Landing Campground GPS Coordinates : 36.0557563, -93.2812997

Kyles Landing Campground is located approximately halfway between Ponca and Jasper, Arkansas, off Highway 74. The entrance road is gravel, steep, and very rough. A high-clearance, 4-wheel-drive vehicle is strongly recommended. C ampsites 33 walk-in tent-only campsites Tent camping only. Camper trailers, motorhomes, RVs, and camper vans are not permitted. Each site includes a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook. Fees & Seasons Campground is open year round. Reservations are required for all sites from mid-March through mid-November. Campsites are $20 per site, per night. Reservations must be made in advance through Recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777 between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m. (EST) Reservations can be made same day and up to 6 months in advance. Cell phone service is not reliable at Kyles Landing so making a reservation before getting to the campground is strongly advised. There is no fee to camp primitively over the winter season and all sites are first-come, first-served during this time. All campers must sign in at the registration station near the restroom upon arrival. At the station, open the metal clipboard and complete the registration form. Be sure to include your reservation confirmation number. Amenities Water and flush restrooms are available during the operating season of mid-March through mid-November. There are no shower facilities available. Campsites accommodate 1 – 6 people per site. A vault toilet remains open during winter months with limited servicing.

Restroom facility and water spigot at Erbie Campground NPS Erbie Campground Erbie Campground Map GPS Coordinates : 36.0800929, -93.2342205

Erbie Campground is located approximately 7 miles down a gravel road off Highway 7, north of Jasper, Arkansas. The campground offers: 13 drive-in campsites 13 walk-in tent-only campsites 5 walk-in tent-only group sites Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook. Fees & Seasons Campground is open year round. Reservations are required for all sites from mid-March through mid-November. Individual drive-in and walk-in campsites are $20 per site, per night. Group campsites are $50 per site, per night. Reservations must be made in advance through Recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777 between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m. (EST) Reservations can be made same day and up to 6 months in advance for individual drive-in or walk-in campsites. Reservations can be made same day and up to 1 year in advance for group sites. Cell phone service is not reliable at Erbie so making a reservation before getting to the campground is strongly advised. There is no fee to camp primitively over the winter season and all sites are first-come, first-served during this time. All campers must sign in at the registration station upon arrival. At the station, open the metal clipboard and complete the registration form. Be sure to include your reservation confirmation number. Amenities Water and flush restrooms available during the operating season of mid-March through mid-November. Individual drive-in and walk-in tent-only campsites accommodate 1 – 6 people per site. Group sites accomodate 10 – 25 people per site. Drive-in sites are suitable for tent or RV camping. Walk-in sites are only available for tent camping. There are no showers, RV hookups, or dump stations available within the campground. A vault toilet remains open during winter months with limited servicing. Erbie Horse Camp Located 7 miles east of Compton, this campground sits at the end of gravel and dirt roads north of the Buffalo River. It's open year-round but does not have water available or trash services. Please pack out anything that is brought in with you during your stay. Vault toilets are available with limited servicing. Use is limited to those with horses only on a first-come, first-served basis. Campsites allow a maximum of 6 persons and 6 horses per site. No fees charged.

Buffalo River swimming hole at Ozark Campground. NPS Ozark Campground Download a map of Ozark Campground GPS Coordinates : 36.0621317, -93.1597244

The campground offers: 30 campsites Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook 1 pavilion Fees & Seasons Campground is open year round. Reservations are required for all sites from mid-March through mid-November. Campsites are $20 per site, per night. The pavilion is $25 per day. Reservations must be made in advance through Recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777 between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m. (EST) Campsite reservations can be made same day and up to 6 months in advance. Pavilion reservations can be made same day and up to 1 year in advance. Cell phone service is not reliable at Ozark so making a reservation before getting to the campground is strongly advised. There is no fee to camp primitively over the winter season and all sites are first-come, first-served during this time. All campers must sign in at the registration station upon arrival. At the station, open the metal clipboard and complete the registration form. Be sure to include your reservation confirmation number. Amenities Water and flush restrooms are available during the operating season of mid-March through mid-November. Campsites accommodate 1 – 6 people per site Some sites are suitable for primitive RV camping and some sites are only suitable for walk-in tent camping. See Recreation.gov for specific details. No showers, RV hookups, or dump stations are available within the campground. A vault toilet remains open during winter months with limited servicing.

Carver Campground Site #4 NPS Carver Campground Download a map of Carver Campground GPS Coordinates : 35.98518232 -93.03818673

Carver is located near the bridge crossing the Buffalo River along Highway 123. The campground offers: 8 walk-in tent-only campsites Tent camping only. Camper trailers, motorhomes, RVs, and camper vans are not permitted. Each site includes a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook. Fees & Seasons Campground is open year-round. Reservations are required for all sites from mid-March through mid-November. Campsites are $16 per site, per night when reservations are required. Reservations must be made in advance through Recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777 between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m. (EST). Reservations can be made same day and up to 6 months in advance. Cell phone service is not reliable at Carver so making a reservation before getting to the campground is strongly advised. There is no fee to camp primitively over the winter season and all sites are first-come, first-served during this time. All campers must sign in at the registration station upon arrival. At the station, open the metal clipboard and complete the registration form. Be sure to include your reservation confirmation number. Amenities Water is available during the operating season of mid-March through mid-November. There are no flush restrooms available at Carver, only a vault toilet. There are no shower facilities available. Campsites accommodate 1 – 6 people per site.

One of the pavilions available by reservation at Buffalo Point Campground. NPS Lower District North Maumee to Lower Buffalo Wilderness The lower or eastern section of the river provides camping at Spring Creek, Buffalo Point, and Rush Campgrounds. Spring Creek Campground Download a map of Spring Creek Campground GPS Coordinates : 36.0285289,-92.5800835

The park encompasses over 95,000 acres that surround the free-flowing Buffalo, much of which is linked together by a growing network of trails to accommodate hiking and equestrian-based recreational activities. These trail systems also offer numerous side hikes to locations that showcase the natural and human history that have shaped the region.

Below you will find the park's trail systems broken down by district. Select a district to learn about the hikes that are offered in that particular area. For further information about trails in the park call the Tyler Bend Visitor Center at 870-439-2502 or e-mail the park.

The only trails that allow dogs are the three Buffalo Point Campground trails (Forest Trail, Campground Trail, and Overlook Trail), the Tyler Bend Campground trails (Spring Hollow Trail, Buck Ridge Trail, and Rock Wall Trail), Mill Creek Trail, Villines Homestead Trail, and the Buffalo River Trail between Ponca and Steel Creek only. Please visit the Pets page for more details and maps.

Backcountry camping is allowed on the Buffalo River Trail and some of the park's other trails. Backcountry camping is not permitted on the Lost Valley Trail, Tyler Bend Campground Trails, Indian Rockhouse Trail, or Buffalo Point Campground Trails. Visit the park's backcountry page for further information.

Information regarding trail accessability can be found on the page regarding that trail. Select a district below, then a trail from the district list.

Mobility devices are permitted in all areas. For more information, visit Mobility Devices - Accessibility (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)

Don't forget the sunscreen, bug spray, water, snacks, and sturdy footwear. We hope you have an enjoyable hike!

Be Prepared. Plan Ahead. Tell someone where you are going. Leave a detailed itinerary and map of the area with a responsible person at home or work on whom you can rely to report you overdue in the event that you become delayed. Give them the telephone number to Buffalo National River's 24-hour dispatch: 1-888-692-1162. Remember, cell phone service is unreliable in the park.

The Sod Collier Homestead at Tyler Bend can be easily accessed for self-guided tours. Hiking and horse trails also exist in the area.

You can hike the Indian Rockhouse, Buffalo Point Campground Trails, Rush Mine Level Trail, or the Buffalo River Trail in the Lower District.

Tell someone where you are going. Leave a detailed itinerary and map of the area with a responsible person at home or work on whom you can rely to report you overdue in the event that you become delayed. Give them the telephone number to Buffalo National River's 24-hour dispatch: 1-888-692-1162. Remember, cell phone service is unreliable in the park. Know your limits and prepare. Search and rescue missions often result from visitors who get in over their head and quickly become overwhelmed by trip duration, trip difficulty, or environmental conditions (air and water temperatures). Things you should ask yourself include, are you a strong swimmer? Do you possess basic survival skills, such as lighting a fire, and can you perform those skills while soaking wet and shivering? Are you healthy enough for strenuous activity? Can you carry your pack for miles? If you are floating the river and river conditions change do you know when to pull off of the river and wait for better conditions? Check the weather forecast. Give yourself enough daylight for day trips. If the weather forecast looks questionable, consider postponing your trip. If you decide to proceed with your trip be prepared for adverse weather conditions. Know what time sunset occurs and plan for unexpected delays. Carry several light sources with you. Stay on designated trails. Carry a topographic map of the park and know how to read it. There are many bluff lines that offer stunning views of the park, but do not get close to the edge. Hunting is permitted in most of Buffalo National River's backcountry areas. If you are hiking consider wearing high-visibility orange outerwear during hunting season. If you are hunting know where you can hunt, be aware of the trails, and remember that visitors might be hiking nearby. Leave No Trace. There are special considerations to make when traveling in the park's backcountry. Please visit the park's Leave No Trace page to learn more about Buffalo National River's Leave No Trace efforts.